Yammer Dan Posted June 4, 2012 #1 Posted June 4, 2012 My son has a Dodge Caravan. 03 with 3.8 engine. He said it had been missing some. He is one of those that keeps driving as long as it will go. Thing is he started it the other morning and it ran for a short time and quit. It will crank but no start. He checked fuses and replaced Coil Pack. ( I ain't got a clue why) Anyway it cranks but no start. He claims no fire. 1st place to look? He wants to borrow my Ranger and those Varmits of his will trash the interior and outside given time. HELP!!! You know I can't say NO!
Flyinfool Posted June 4, 2012 #2 Posted June 4, 2012 SEAFOAM it! Have him hold the number one spark plug wire to see if there is spark..... Could just as easily be bad gas or plugged injector(s). The quick test is a small shot of ether. it will as least pop off if the ignition is working. if this still gives nothing then it is still an ignition problem. If it does run off the ether and quit then it is a fuel problem. At least this will narrow it down. You can tell by the sound if there is still some compression. Compression, spark at the right time and fuel equals a running engine.
Venturous Randy Posted June 4, 2012 #3 Posted June 4, 2012 Have you got a code reader that you can put on it? RandyA
buddy Posted June 4, 2012 #4 Posted June 4, 2012 Dan it could be several items causing this? If he has no spark it could be crank sensor - cam/hall affect sensor/Disturbutor/relays/ignition switch/coil pack etc etc. on and on? use small amount of starting fluid and see if it will start? if so it will be fuel issue I have in the past used a rubber hammer and tapped on the fuel tank and the fuel pump would start working again but not always. if it does then you know you have a bad fuel pump. its hard for us to help since we cannot see the van but we can give you ideas on what to check keep us up to date?
Yammer Dan Posted June 4, 2012 Author #6 Posted June 4, 2012 He did try spraying gas in breather hose. And he claimed he held the plug wire while cranking.Code Reader showed Cannot connect or cannot read. Something like that.
Snaggletooth Posted June 4, 2012 #7 Posted June 4, 2012 Had the same problem a while back with the Lincoln. Had the thing torn to pieces chasing the cause. Tried a new ignition module and it fired right up..... for a couple days and did it again. Tried another igniton module and it fired right up again...... a few times, then nuttin'. Started probing the cam sensor (because I could reach it) and got a poor reading, but wasn's sure if I got a good one. Finally jacked the car up and got to the cranks sensor. Had to dig at that one. Got no reading at all. Replaced the crank sensor and it fired right up. Haven't had a problem since. Replaced the cam sensor to just for the heck of it and now I have a spare ignition module. Old one is still in the car.
Yammer Dan Posted June 5, 2012 Author #8 Posted June 5, 2012 I'm not up with all the sensors and things in there anymore. Some of them you can unplug and car will work without them I think. i want to go back to my 50 chevy. 1st motor I rebuilt. Ran better than a new one!!
Marcarl Posted June 5, 2012 #9 Posted June 5, 2012 My daughter had a similar problem, but that was with a chevy. Turned out to be the wires going into the distributor, not the ones connected to the module, but the ones coming up to connecting to the module, the wire was broke inside the insulation,,,,,, but the other guys are probably more knowledgeable than I am.
buddy Posted June 5, 2012 #10 Posted June 5, 2012 Dan is a photo of the crank sensor location. Rear of the Transmission housing above the Diff.housing basically back side of the motor in the bell housing Part $21.00 - 25.00 labor rate 0.8 hrs so its not to bad almost an hour time frame OEM # 469153AC
pmelah Posted June 7, 2012 #11 Posted June 7, 2012 it has to have spark if you have no spark then you must replace the ignition control mod. that is what controls the spark the comp. talks to the mod and the mod. sends the spark to the correct plug wire that may be his hole problem to start with i had one go out on me thought it might need a tune up was going to do it on payday 3 days away it did not make it 2 days after it started missing the module went out the old one was cracked and when it got hot it broke the connection so start there dan i believe you will find that to be the culprit and a scanner will not read this nor will it be able to read anything on the system i still havent figured that out yet guess im not going to as my mother traded hers in for a new car after changing the module out the van ran great and was getting better gas mi.
Yammer Dan Posted June 8, 2012 Author #12 Posted June 8, 2012 He had it towed to the shop. First thing they done was replace Crank sensor. Then Said Well that wasn't it!! We will try again tomorrow.. What gives with these places anymore? If you don't know what you are doing Don't Mess with it !!
Marcarl Posted June 8, 2012 #13 Posted June 8, 2012 When I bring stuff to my shop, first thing they do is to plug in the code reader,, and then go from there. One shop charges me $60 for that service and $90 hr there after, the other shop charges nothing for the reader but then charges $50 there after,,,, go figure,,, guess who gets my business.
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