Plastics Refresher Course

[Condor]

There's been a ton of posts written about plastic repair on fairings, but can anyone who's successfully patched a large sized hole in their plastic fairing gimme a hint on what you used and how it turned out. I have two fairly good sized holes in the bottom of the trunk of the '91 that need to be filled and faired. Since they are right in front the area supported by the 4 thru-screws, and right on the leading edge of the trunk, I thought I'd try to lay down a reinforcing fiberglass matt over the entire area either on the inside or underneath. Any advise on what you used to fill the void of the missing pieces of ABS. I work with fiberglass all the time, but with ABS, and spider cracks, I'm a little aprehensive....

 

I didn't spot the damage until after I bought the bike, and this is the first time I've haven't been able to put 2 and 2 together to figure out how the damage happened. The bottom of the trunk was fractured , and the mounting ears on the frame plus the ears on the mounting rack were broken off. It took one hell of a hit. But.... there is absolutely no other damage to to the trunk, saddle bags, chrome rails and lighting, or surrounding area. The trunk is 100% other than the bottom damage. Nothings bent or broken. It's got me scratching my head.... A 400lb gorilla maybe???

[utadventure]

Condor-

 

Here's what I did for repair the hinge area on my trunk. Take a look at the link below:

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8492

 

 

If you need more or better pics, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

 

Dave

[Condor]

Condor-

 

Here's what I did for repair the hinge area on my trunk. Take a look at the link below:

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8492

 

 

If you need more or better pics, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

 

Dave

 

Thanks for the link Dave. There's some good information in there. I didn't see a lot of pics on the actual damage to the trunk. Was any plastic missing that you had to fill??

[utadventure]

There was a fair amount plastic that was broken completely but only a couple of small piece that were actually missing. As this part of the truck his hidden behind the passenger backrest, I didn't worry about making replacement pieces from ABS material. The ABS glue did fill in the area fairly well as it welded the remaining truck together. I also embedded the fiberglass material into the ABS glue and then added another layer of glue to adhere the Lexan. All of this created a pretty strong base for the hinge to bolt up to. I have looked at the trunk for a while but it all function as you would want all of last year. I'll see if I can add some pics tonight when I get home from the dungeon. Feel free to call my cell number on the profile.

 

Dave

[Condor]

There was a fair amount plastic that was broken completely but only a couple of small piece that were actually missing. As this part of the truck his hidden behind the passenger backrest, I didn't worry about making replacement pieces from ABS material. The ABS glue did fill in the area fairly well as it welded the remaining truck together. I also embedded the fiberglass material into the ABS glue and then added another layer of glue to adhere the Lexan. All of this created a pretty strong base for the hinge to bolt up to. I have looked at the trunk for a while but it all function as you would want all of last year. I'll see if I can add some pics tonight when I get home from the dungeon. Feel free to call my cell number on the profile.

 

Dave

 

Pics would be great Dave. And ..... if you happen to have the name of the ABS glue I'd appreciate it. I stopped by Tap Plastics to see if they had any thing in a two part ABS that would cure, but the only thing they had was a thicker ABS glue made by Weld-On. Basically the same stuff I already use for repairing spider cracks... only thick. I wasn't sure if it would have any fill properties so I passed and thought I'd check with a few of the auto parts stores in the area to see if they might have a two part??

[cmiles3]

I patched a similar, but different hole in my saddlebag this fall. I had a bottle of brake fluid that leaked, and caused a blowout on the bottom inside corner. What a mess.

 

I used ABS cement (thick, sticky stuff), available at your local hardware store in the plumbing section, and fiberglass mat to reinforce the area. I wasn't missing anything, so no holes to fill & fair. I cleaned the area with alcohol, used cement to coat the repair area and the FG, pressed into place, recoated the FG with a coat or two of cement to stiffen the reinforcing, and used masking tape to hold everything together while it set up. Seems to hold up so far. Try to protect the painted surfaces where possible; it may cause some wrinkling of the paint. Most of my reinforcing has been on the unpainted side (black side).

 

I used the same technique to patch a hole or two in my lower fairing; cement & FG on the back side of the fairing. To fill & fair the hole, I used Plastic Weld resin available at WalMart or Autozone. I had some lightweight glass microbead filler from West Marine, so I added that to the Plastic Weld mix. Spread it in the hole after the cement & FG set up a day, then let it set. Faired it- still need to paint it, but I'm too busy riding.

 

Used both techniques to patch a few spare plastic parts I've acquired; I'll post a photo. Not pretty, but a little work scraping, sanding and painting will help.

 

Used the same technique to reinforce cracks on my lower cowling (under the radiator). Darn stray cat.

[Condor]

Is this the plastic stuff everyone's using??

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=132&

 

I have two or three different types of fillers around here that I use when fiberglassing. I wondered if there would be any problem using it with Acrylic 'goo'.... If Mike's used it, I'm sure it'll be OK.

[Black Owl]

Have you considered PC-7 Epoxy Paste. Had excellent results in repairing a saddle bag lid that had a chunk missing from it.

[Rolling Barcalounger]

fiberglass and mesh steel. use a piece of waxed paper on outside with masking tape inside use fiberglass resin with mesh steel reinforcement.

[fixit3546]

My 2 cents... Plastex.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=312

[Condor]

My 2 cents... Plastex.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=312

 

Gotta question. Does the plastex cure hard and is it sandable?? Thanks for the link.

[Rocket]

Gotta question. Does the plastex cure hard and is it sandable?? Thanks for the link.

 

Yes to both questions, I have used it to make new mounting tabs & posts too. Works great, in my opinion.

[Condor]

Have you considered PC-7 Epoxy Paste. Had excellent results in repairing a saddle bag lid that had a chunk missing from it.

 

Thanks for the lead Russ. I may consider using it. Plastex sounds good too, but I didn't see where it was sandable. I'm going to need to fair the stuff after it dries. Attached are a couple of pics of the damage.

[Condor]

Yes to both questions, I have used it to make new mounting tabs & posts too. Works great, in my opinion.

 

Thanks Rocket....

[hipshot]

jack , on the "spyder cracks, i would gently spread the two pieces apart, without doing further damage, and using an "artists brush,"i would paint both leading edges with acetone.when you release the two parts, the acetone, having softened the two leading edges, will glue them back together.

as fot the hole, i wouldn't use abs "pipe /plumbing " glue. i tried that, and in a heavier application, even in stages, you tend to get a VERY porous fix. not sturdy at all!

i would go with a "body filler" for autos, and maybe a thin fiberglass topcoat.

both are sandable and paintable.

good luck with whichever solution you opt to try.

just jt

[Marcarl]

If you take some ABS, I use some left over drain pipe, make shavings with a coarse file, mix with acetone you come up with a neat paste that seems to work very well. You can make it very liquidy or more thick as you need to and it gives you time to work with it. I also use fiberglass and plastex where handy and needed. For backing I like aluminum tape, sticks in place, follows curves, somewhat with some help, and removes easily.

[Condor]

jack , on the "spyder cracks, i would gently spread the two pieces apart, without doing further damage, and using an "artists brush,"i would paint both leading edges with acetone.when you release the two parts, the acetone, having softened the two leading edges, will glue them back together.

as fot the hole, i wouldn't use abs "pipe /plumbing " glue. i tried that, and in a heavier application, even in stages, you tend to get a VERY porous fix. not sturdy at all!

i would go with a "body filler" for autos, and maybe a thin fiberglass topcoat.

both are sandable and paintable.

good luck with whichever solution you opt to try.

just jt

 

I've already done the cracks with Weld-On 3245. It's probably acetone?? They look like 'H' in the pics, but are actually pretty sturdy. I'm sure they wouldn't hold up for any length of time under the structial stress of the area they are in. That's why I need to get some glass mat backing on the inside. In my mind, and with the help of some good suggestions on this board, I think I'll go ahead and use ABS thick cement to coat the inside area and then press in a layer...maybe two.. of matting. I'll follow up with a couple of thin layers of PC-7 or Plastex on the inside. Because of several metal plates and brackets that are in the area there's a need to keep the build down for them to still fit. More glass less 2part. Finally fill and form the hole from the outside. I'm feeling better about jumping into this repair due to some good feedback. Thank guys....

[utadventure]

Condor- The only pic I have of the repair was too dark to really see what was done. Sorry!!

 

I just used the ABS glue in the red can that I bought at Home Depot.

[Guest ReinyRooster]

Condor, I had two large chunks broken out of my trunk lid where the backrest screws broke it...each chunk was almost the size of a fist. I used some scrap plastic from an old Venture and cut out pieces to fit, used a 2 part expoxy and fiberglass backing. Worked well but if I knew about Plastex then, I would have used it to weld the joint together. have used Plastex since and am very impressed with it.

I had posted pics of that first repair on this site some time ago....I see if I can find that thread...pics are lost in the last computer crash.

This link is to an old thread that shows the chucks I had to remove...I was sure I had more pics of the repair work......I keep looking:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8375&highlight=trunk+lid+plastic+repair

[Guest ReinyRooster]

O.K....found some of the old pics. Hope they're of some use to you.

[Black Owl]

Hey, maybe there is someone out there that has a wrecked scoot that could send you some pieces of ABS to fill that large holes. If it were I, I would cut a plug from a piece of ABS and use Plastex to cement it in place. Then, if you feel you need to stiffen it further, 3M has a 2 part plastic epoxy that is great. Pricey but good. And completely sandable and paintable. If you decide to go that route, make sure you get the ABS epoxy. Should be able to pick it up from any body shop supplier.....

 

The repair sure looks doable... Good luck and keep us posted on the progress

[Condor]

Condor- The only pic I have of the repair was too dark to really see what was done. Sorry!!

 

I just used the ABS glue in the red can that I bought at Home Depot.

 

Thanks Dave. Looks like HD is going to get more of my money than I'd planned....

[Condor]

Hey, maybe there is someone out there that has a wrecked scoot that could send you some pieces of ABS to fill that large holes. If it were I, I would cut a plug from a piece of ABS and use Plastex to cement it in place. Then, if you feel you need to stiffen it further, 3M has a 2 part plastic epoxy that is great. Pricey but good. And completely sandable and paintable. If you decide to go that route, make sure you get the ABS epoxy. Should be able to pick it up from any body shop supplier.....

 

The repair sure looks doable... Good luck and keep us posted on the progress

 

I actually have another trunk that I picked up pretty cheap off ebay for the inside L brackets and parts. It's just that the top is toast, but the bottom is in great shape and I'd hate to cut up a good bottom for a couple of holes. I just tossed a bunch of plastic off the '93 that would have worked for scrap ABS....but hind sight is....?? I'm just wondering if piecing scrap ABS in the holes would give as much support as glass matt and ABS filler???

[86er]

After crashing on the Dragon last year, I had some plastic repair to do myself. I started out using JB Weld and moved on to Devcon Plastic Welder. Both with fiberglass cloth laid in. I found that the Devcon was the easiest to work with (available at WallyWorld), and was very strong; even when rebuilding tabs. It sets a lot faster than JB W.

JB Quick sets up fast, but I have found that it is not as strong or long lasting.

 

[Eck]

Condor,

You might want to consider using some plastic (or steel) window screen and lay pieces of it over the wet repaired area, then cover it with more of the repair plastic, thus embedding it within the plastic for strength...

you can always drill thru it later if you wanted to add a hole for attaching something, but it will provide strenth to weaker areas.

And in case I didnt explain that right.. here are the steps of my thoughts..

1. Pre cut screen piece(s) to fit damaged area(s).
   
2. Next apply a wet coat of repair plastic (whatever you choose to use) over and around the damaged area.
   
3. Emmeidately push the screen down into the wet repair plastic.
   
4. Let that sit for a short time to set up a little, then
   
5. Apply second coat of repair plastic over the screen covering it and sandwiching it between the two coats of repair plastic.
   
6. Once it is dry, you can sand and paint..

If your repairing an area that has a hole in it for a bolt to go thru, you can also sandwich a steel washer in the pastic that the bolt will go through and this will also provde you better strength around a bolt hole.