wes0778 Posted May 26, 2012 #1 Posted May 26, 2012 (edited) geared final drive just arrived from http://rmsportmax.com/gateway.html Thank you John for all you had to do, yesterday, to get it out to me!!! Now gotta get it installed!!! Edited May 26, 2012 by wes0778 spelling
Guest scarylarry Posted May 26, 2012 #2 Posted May 26, 2012 Record temps and you are talking about changing the rear end.. I hope the garage has A/C...
wes0778 Posted May 26, 2012 Author #3 Posted May 26, 2012 (edited) Record temps and you are talking about changing the rear end.. I hope the garage has A/C... GARAGE??? Nope just a shade tree and a fan. Edited May 27, 2012 by wes0778 Added a picture of my "shop"
wes0778 Posted May 27, 2012 Author #5 Posted May 27, 2012 Did you get it on yet? Yep, just came in to confirm torque specs
Guest scarylarry Posted May 27, 2012 #6 Posted May 27, 2012 Ok we need to know how it is and do you like it.... Also does this make the gear higher or lower?
Squidley Posted May 27, 2012 #8 Posted May 27, 2012 It was good chatting with you earlier Walt, and I'm glad that the rearend came in today. I always hate having to hurry up and finish something before I leave to go somewhere on the bike
wes0778 Posted May 27, 2012 Author #9 Posted May 27, 2012 Well the bike is back together, but still on the stand. I'll ride it tomorrow, to check it out, but there is a clunking noise that sounds like the gears may not be setup correctly. OR it may be something I have done. I had a heck of a time getting the wheel up and into the splines in the final drive. Not easy by myself. I knew that "Murphy" was lurking around when, 1st try, I stabbed the drive shaft into the u-joint. That was too easy..... something later would more than likely go wrong!!!
wes0778 Posted May 27, 2012 Author #10 Posted May 27, 2012 Ok we need to know how it is and do you like it.... Also does this make the gear higher or lower? It is a lower ratio. Should make for less down shifting when I'm pulling my overloaded trailer. Engine will be turning 400-500rpm faster @ 70 mph.
Guest scarylarry Posted May 27, 2012 #11 Posted May 27, 2012 Since I don't towed anything I think this is one mod I'll leave alone..
Freebird Posted May 27, 2012 #12 Posted May 27, 2012 Wes, It's not hard to get the wheel back into place but there is a simple trick that makes it very easy. Put the axle in. Then that holds it up while you align it and push it in. Then it will stay in place and you can pull the axle back out to get the spacers, caliper bracket and etc. installed.
Owen Posted May 27, 2012 #13 Posted May 27, 2012 Well the bike is back together, but still on the stand. I'll ride it tomorrow, to check it out, but there is a clunking noise that sounds like the gears may not be setup correctly. OR it may be something I have done. I had a heck of a time getting the wheel up and into the splines in the final drive. Not easy by myself. I knew that "Murphy" was lurking around when, 1st try, I stabbed the drive shaft into the u-joint. That was too easy..... something later would more than likely go wrong!!! Drive shaft not engaged with U-joint?
Freebird Posted May 27, 2012 #14 Posted May 27, 2012 That's a real possibility. In case you don't know it Wes, the drive shaft will slide in right beside the U-joint instead of in it like it should. Maybe it being so easy to stab on the first try was not a good thing.
kbran Posted May 27, 2012 #15 Posted May 27, 2012 That's a real possibility. In case you don't know it Wes, the drive shaft will slide in right beside the U-joint instead of in it like it should. Maybe it being so easy to stab on the first try was not a good thing. Drive shaft not engaged with U-joint? They might be right, don't ask me how I know:whistling:
wes0778 Posted May 27, 2012 Author #16 Posted May 27, 2012 Drive shaft not engaged with U-joint? That's a real possibility. In case you don't know it Wes, the drive shaft will slide in right beside the U-joint instead of in it like it should. Maybe it being so easy to stab on the first try was not a good thing. They might be right, don't ask me how I know:whistling: I'll recheck it, but with the engine off I can turn the rear wheel in neutral, but in gear it will not turn. With the engine running, I can shift into 2nd and stall the engine with the rear brake. Would it act like that if the drive shaft missed the U-joint?
Guest tx2sturgis Posted May 27, 2012 #18 Posted May 27, 2012 I will be curious to see if you notice any change in fuel mileage. Others have posted that they seemed to get better fuel mileage with the vmax rear when pulling a trailer than the stock gearing pulling the same trailer. Makes sense since the engine is operating more efficiently at a slighly higher RPM I would assume.
naturbar Posted May 27, 2012 #19 Posted May 27, 2012 I'll recheck it, but with the engine off I can turn the rear wheel in neutral, but in gear it will not turn. With the engine running, I can shift into 2nd and stall the engine with the rear brake. Would it act like that if the drive shaft missed the U-joint? you are indeed connected correctly, otherwise with the bike running the rear wheel would not spin when in gear. the 1st time i had my drive shaft out, i miss aligned upon re-installation and had to redo. i'm not familiar with the process to change to a v-max but do you have to set the pinion depth as part of the setup? if so perhaps you have too much backlash causing the clunk ?? best of luck the the new install.
Freebird Posted May 27, 2012 #20 Posted May 27, 2012 Shouldn't be anything to do expect swap it out. Everything is setup correctly when you get it. Just install, fill with oil and go.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted May 27, 2012 #22 Posted May 27, 2012 I'm guessing you will be needing to recalibrate the speedo... Speedohealer time?
flb_78 Posted May 27, 2012 #23 Posted May 27, 2012 The speedo will still be the normal 8% or so off. It reads the teef of the the pinion gear.
wes0778 Posted May 27, 2012 Author #24 Posted May 27, 2012 Well 30 miles on it, 20 of it on the super slab. IR gun reads 140-152 degrees F. Not sure what it should be but that does not seem TOO hot, for a gear box. Speedo is right where it was; Bike says 80, GPS says 73. Haven't checked the odometer, yet. So far I love what it has done for the bike! Now I have a true 1st gear!!! The only thing is I'll have to get used to the increased rpms in 5th. Right now, in 5th, it feels like I need to shift again. Gonna let it cool off, drain the oil, and see what might be on the magnetic plug.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted May 27, 2012 #25 Posted May 27, 2012 (edited) The speedo will still be the normal 8% or so off. It reads the teef of the the pinion gear. And that is why the reading will change. Only if it read the ring gear or ring gear teeth would it remain the same. The final ratio, and wheel rpm, will change for a given driveshaft rotational speed. In this case, the wheel RPM will be less, so the reading should show a higher reading than normal for a given road speed. Or is there something I dont know about how the sensor works? On any bike, when you make a gearing change AFTER the sensor, you will introduce speedometer error. (or possibly decrease it) Look on the FAQ page, question #11: http://www.healtech-electronics.com/ Edited May 27, 2012 by tx2sturgis
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