Rear Cylinders dead.

[mechanic1]

With cap removed should be 10K +- 10%

 

Testing thru the coil would add secondary coil resistance of 13.2k +-20%, and the hot lead of the coil actually makes is way back to the IGNITION fuse, not ACCY fuse.

 

Ok....ohm testing from plug cap end to ingnition fuse(brown-grd.side...) I get 22.8 on two and 23 ohms on the other two.....So,....that is as it should be right? Also,....I don't see any way to take the caps apart. They do check to be about 10 ohms though on the 20K scale...

[mechanic1]

With cap removed should be 10K +- 10%

 

Testing thru the coil would add secondary coil resistance of 13.2k +-20%, and the hot lead of the coil actually makes is way back to the IGNITION fuse, not ACCY fuse.

 

By doing this test it checks the coils also correct? ....except I need to do a hot test once everything is up to temp and ohm again right?

[bkuhr]

Ok....ohm testing from plug cap end to ingnition fuse(brown-grd.side...) I get 22.8 on two and 23 ohms on the other two.....So,....that is as it should be right? Also,....I don't see any way to take the caps apart. They do check to be about 10 ohms though on the 20K scale...

 

Assuming this is 22.8-23,000 ohms (kiloohms) I would say your caps and coil secondarys

are good. Could still have issue with coil primarys or coils break downwith heat.

 

FYI, the sparkplug side of the cap has screwdriver slot for unscrewing the brass fitting inside. Behind the fitting are resistor, spring, and 2 small flat brass washers.

 

Might try spark test, grounded plug where you can watch electrode, comparing all four cylinders looking for weak or non spark on the bad cylinders.

[mechanic1]

Ooooh! Ok I see that now. I will remember that, don't think I need to take them apart now since they check good.

[mechanic1]

My feeling is your compression is not a major problem, but if you feel the need a more useful test would be with a leakdown tester

http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html

and you can even hear where leaking air is coming from,

ie:exhaust=exhaust valve, carbs=intake valve, crank case breather=rings

 

Recommend you do not even try to reuse valve cover gasket.

 

Well, it appears you were right Brian....did as you suggested.....drained fuel from all carbs.....fuel looked good in all cases....monkeyed with the idle jets.....#3 at first had little or no effect on rpms....but then adjustments were effecting rpm as they should....must have had crud in the idle passage righ there at it....seems to run good now...even hot....can't thank you enough for the info. appreciate it.

[bkuhr]

Well, it appears you were right Brian....did as you suggested.....drained fuel from all carbs.....fuel looked good in all cases....monkeyed with the idle jets.....#3 at first had little or no effect on rpms....but then adjustments were effecting rpm as they should....must have had crud in the idle passage righ there at it....seems to run good now...even hot....can't thank you enough for the info. appreciate it.

 

Glad it was so easy. NOW while the passages are open, it is time to run heavy dose of seafoam. Plan to replace plugs again afterward.

[mechanic1]

Wanted to say thanks to all with advice and suggestion.....the members of this site are an absolute wealth of information! ....few shorter rides to get the warm fuzzy feeling back and if all is well....a good road trip is in order...lol:)

[camarojunkie85]

im having a dead cylinder issue myself, instead of new thread I thought id asK. but mine is left rear cylinder, but I have no spark. I switch the lead from the front coil to rear and the coil fires, so I see its in my wiring or tci. So I then checked voltage to the coil with multimer, the hot side to ground gets battery voltage. The signal wire to the front that is working and it is giving .223 sittingand up and down cranking but that rear wire is at .612 or so.

any suggestions as to what I can do or to test to get this rear firing again? I tried cleaning connector at rear shock and it seems to be fine.

[Trader]

Camerojunkie85...are you having any issues with your tach?

I seem to remember someone saying that misfire problems with the #1 cyl along with tach problems indicates TCI problems.

 

I might have it all screwed up...ANYONE??? HELP!

[camarojunkie85]

I don't recall it bouncing or anything at all no. The voltage of the signal wire are the same at the plug by shock and different when they travel to coil connectors. The one that os not working is triple amount of the others. Im going to run a new wire in the morning and see what that does

[bkuhr]

Not quite understanding what troubleshooting you have already done.

 

im having a dead cylinder issue myself, instead of new thread I thought id asK. but mine is left rear cylinder, but I have no spark.

I switch the lead from the front coil to rear and the coil fires, .

How did you do this? Did you move the High Tension wire from rear to front, or move the 2 pin 12v coil connector rear to front. I ask because the coils on the 83 are completely buried and non-accessable with plastic on.

so I see its in my wiring or tci.

So I then checked voltage to the coil with multimer, the hot side to ground gets battery voltage. The signal wire to the front that is working and it is giving .223 sittingand up and down cranking but that rear wire is at .612 or so..

I am assuming this is being done at the 2 pin 12v coil connectors. What is .223 & .612? Is this a volts or ohms reading to ground? This is the coil fire wire and is actually a pulsing ground (simular to points on an old engine) while engine is cranking or running.

any suggestions as to what I can do or to test to get this rear firing again? I tried cleaning connector at rear shock and it seems to be fine.

Most likely you are having issues with the actual TCI. It is upside down on the coil bracket. It needs to be removed anyway for test and repair, and plan to velcro (relocate) on top of air box afterward.

 

Here is a good place to start reading about TCI repair and diode replacement

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767

Another option would be to replace with another used 29 year old TCI and hope it works, or use a aftermarket tci like this thread

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414

[bkuhr]

Camerojunkie85...are you having any issues with your tach?

I seem to remember someone saying that misfire problems with the #1 cyl along with tach problems indicates TCI problems.

 

I might have it all screwed up...ANYONE??? HELP!

Tach shares #2(left front)coil signal

[camarojunkie85]

This was done on volts cranking 2pin connector while cranking yes. I kind of thought it was a signal wire, my stupidity surpassed me lol. That was my only testing and my plastics are pretty crappy so yes the coils are easy access with removing the car radio lol.

[bkuhr]

This was done on volts cranking 2pin connector while cranking yes. I kind of thought it was a signal wire, my stupidity surpassed me lol. That was my only testing and my plastics are pretty crappy so yes the coils are easy access with removing the car radio lol.

 

Ok, it was a volt test while cranking. Was the 2 pin connector attached to coil or disconnected at the time?

If attached and you are testing from the back of the pins, you should see the battery 12v as it goes in the red/white wire, thru the coil, and back on the yellow wire (#3,RR coil) waiting for a ground.(typically while ing key on-but not running or cranking)

 

While cranking/running, the yellow wire would be pulsing ground, and a regular volt meter would likely show a moving reading probably somewhere around 6v.

 

You could compare this moving reading with another coil, but not likely very specific answer.

 

test the coil primary (r/w-y wires) 2.7ohms +-10% @ 68degF

secondary (high tension-grd) 13.2kohms +-20% @ 68degF

 

next test the pickup coils at the tci connector, I dont remember which pickup wire=which coil. 110 ohms +- 15% @ 68degF and nothing to ground. they are the 6 pin connector on the tci. Test from the black wire to each orange, gray,w/g,w/r

 

If all these good, plan on opening the tci.

[camarojunkie85]

My testing was the coils unplugged from the r/w and orange plug that plugs in to the coil itself, this is the harness that goes down frame under seat. Ill do what was mentioned above, im not to much on wiring. But ill figure it out.

[bkuhr]

My testing was the coils unplugged from the r/w and orange plug that plugs in to the coil itself, this is the harness that goes down frame under seat. Ill do what was mentioned above, im not to much on wiring. But ill figure it out.

 

r/w & orange is supposed to be the #1 (left rear) coil ??

(Unless you are refering to the coil side wires, I think all 4 have the same colors)

 

Down frame and under seat .

is headed toward the TCI, under the coil shelf behind the battery.

[camarojunkie85]

r/w & orange is supposed to be the #1 (left rear) coil ??

(Unless you are refering to the coil side wires, I think all 4 have the same colors)

 

Im guessing side wires, like I said this is the plug that plugs in to the coil not the 2 wires that are molded in to the coil.

[camarojunkie85]

Ok, it was a volt test while cranking. Was the 2 pin connector attached to coil or disconnected at the time?

If attached and you are testing from the back of the pins, you should see the battery 12v as it goes in the red/white wire, thru the coil, and back on the yellow wire (#3,RR coil) waiting for a ground.(typically while ing key on-but not running or cranking)

 

While cranking/running, the yellow wire would be pulsing ground, and a regular volt meter would likely show a moving reading probably somewhere around 6v.

 

You could compare this moving reading with another coil, but not likely very specific answer.

 

test the coil primary (r/w-y wires) 2.7ohms +-10% @ 68degF

secondary (high tension-grd) 13.2kohms +-20% @ 68degF

 

next test the pickup coils at the tci connector, I dont remember which pickup wire=which coil. 110 ohms +- 15% @ 68degF and nothing to ground. they are the 6 pin connector on the tci. Test from the black wire to each orange, gray,w/g,w/r

 

If all these good, plan on opening the tci.

 

Idk how to test secondary, but I got about 3ohms on primary like u said, and testing at sci connector (ground to 4 tires I got about 115 on all. So this is a sign of tci failure??

[bkuhr]

So this is a sign of tci failure??

 

most likely, possible repair of diodes needed

[camarojunkie85]

Ugh, I got the tci box off, and it started dripping water. So im going for that. Being the problem lol. Relocation *definitely*

[Yammer Dan]

Time to open TCI put in oven and bake at LOW temp for about a hour. I can't remember temp but very low. Or with this heat just outside in sunshine. Then clean very carefully. Should be a thread here about that somewhere.

[bkuhr]

Time to open TCI put in oven and bake at LOW temp for about a hour. I can't remember temp but very low. Or with this heat just outside in sunshine. Then clean very carefully. Should be a thread here about that somewhere.

 

Actually, if it is dripping water, don't bake it just yet. Keep it wet-throw in bucket of water until ready to open the screw plate & unsolder the connector pins. The drying out electronics will start corroding- so leave them wet.

 

When all opened up scrub well with nylon bristle brush (tooth brush works well), with rubbing alcohol. Once all clean, hose down with spray electrical cleaner, shake dry, then bake low temp in oven to dry undercomponent areas.

 

After all this, then start the diode replacement, and after seal all raw solder with varnish or clear finger nail polish. Now you can resolder and seal the connector pins putting case back together.

 

Hopefully the transistors are still good.

[camarojunkie85]

Well I soldered in all 8 or 6 diodes however many there were. But im not sure of my kill switch is bad or what now but I have no spark at all. If I push the kill switch it makes the yacht switch jump a bit was that normal? But do you have any other tests I can try. I wasn't sure if maybe I lost ground from pulling coils also or what!. But now im furious lol.

[bkuhr]

Well I soldered in all 8 or 6 diodes however many there were. Did you just resolder? the diodes really need replaced. Double check your work and make sure no solder bridges to other circuits. Make sure you did not pull up and break any pcb traces.

But im not sure of my kill switch is bad or what now but I have no spark at all. If I push the kill switch it makes the yacht switch Yacht switch????

jump a bit was that normal? But do you have any other tests I can try.

Here is a test of mc side systems at the tci. Test for 12v on the r/w wire at tci to verify kill switch.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15131

 

I wasn't sure if maybe I lost ground from pulling coils also or what!. he coil plate did have a ground, but I don't think it is required for coils to fire

But now im furious lol.

123

[camarojunkie85]

Yacht switch I meant kill switch making tach jump** I apologize this was all from my phone.

Yes i replaced all diodes like I said was it 6 or 8, don't remember.

And at the r/w wire for kill switch, I ground probe and use that r/w wire as hot side for probe and I should be able to flip switch and get 12v on and off correct?