OwenB Posted May 13, 2012 #1 Posted May 13, 2012 2007 RSV, been mine nearly 3 weeks. All the lights worked for a while, I assume the rain might have affected something, about 1.5hrs in the rain, noticed a couple days later no passing lights, so maybe or maybe not related. The lights are good, all the fuses that are shown in the owners manual are good. I have a push button switch just left of the 12v acc. plug in the dash that I think may be for these lights, there is no toggle on the light housing like some Ive read about. I can see 2 red wires that arent in the harness going that direction, but I stopped before taking anything loose on the fairing. What is involved to look at this closer? anyone else have a setup like this?
Eck Posted May 13, 2012 #2 Posted May 13, 2012 The switch next to 12v accessory outlet is more then likely theswitch for your driving lights. You should just go ahead and take the fairing apart to do the job rigth. After you remove the fairing, look on the back side of the push button switch for a red wire..follow that wire and you will most likely find an inline fuse that is blown. After replacing the inline fuse, turn key on and see if ligths work.. push button if you need to.. Once you get them working again, make sure all connections are wrapped with tape so water can not get into them. Tape up the back of the switch also..or use rtv silicone to cover the terminals.Use a Q-tip to spred the RTV around the terminals. Good luck..
etcswjoe Posted May 13, 2012 #3 Posted May 13, 2012 I have a similar switch setup plus a relay. Check for voltage at the lights, take off the fairing and check at the relay if you have one then the switch. The only time I have seen both go out it was a pinched wire going into the light bar so you may want to check those before you remove the fairing.
bikenut Posted May 13, 2012 #4 Posted May 13, 2012 If you find a fuse under the fairing that is the stock setup from Yamaha but you should relocate that fuse to under the seat for future access without taking the fairing off and also add a relay to the lights. Without the relay this causes the main key switch to go bad. To much amps running thru the key switch and in the end the switch goes bad. So relocate the fuse and add a relay to help with no problems in the future.
Guest Posted May 14, 2012 #5 Posted May 14, 2012 If you have a relay wired in all the better. If not, go ahead and wire in a relay, along with a new toggle switch for the lights. That push button switch is most likely shot. I know I end up replacing my switch and relay every few years.
darthandy Posted May 14, 2012 #6 Posted May 14, 2012 When you split the fairing, check the "hot wire" for the driving lights. It's quite possible that the installer used one of those blue power taps with a small blade inside that cuts through the wire's insulation to make contact with the mating wire. Those taps are useless and fail early. Take off the tap and solder the wires or, better yet, do as suggested earlier and run a separate wire from he battery to a relay to power the lights. And add a relay to the headlight as well to drop the load on the ignition switch even more. Well worth the time and trouble. Andy
djh3 Posted May 15, 2012 #7 Posted May 15, 2012 Check the fuse holder. If its a round type its the factory deal. Mine running 35w bulbs was melted. I replaced it in same spot under fairing (maybe bad idea on my part) and installed a relay set up using a new power wire and the existing power to run the relay.
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