JohnMidnight Posted May 11, 2012 #1 Posted May 11, 2012 Now... I've got the parts I should replace (courtesy of Venturers tech page... hehe..) but I noticed a step I cannot do. On my YVR 90 I cannot seem to--with the CLASS control panel) reduce PSI to 0--of course on manual. It will at best decrease to 6, and even then the system pumps a extra psi in. Their another manual way? Or is it because I'm not really off the ground on the center stand?
Condor Posted May 11, 2012 #2 Posted May 11, 2012 Now... I've got the parts I should replace (courtesy of Venturers tech page... hehe..) but I noticed a step I cannot do. On my YVR 90 I cannot seem to--with the CLASS control panel) reduce PSI to 0--of course on manual. It will at best decrease to 6, and even then the system pumps a extra psi in. Their another manual way? Or is it because I'm not really off the ground on the center stand? That's just about minimum you're gonna get for a CLASS reading on the fronts, and that should be low enough to take the drain screws out and not take a bath... My '83 used to bottom out at 7...
GaryZ Posted May 11, 2012 #3 Posted May 11, 2012 I recently replaced my fork seals and can tell you that 6psi is not a problem. When you get down to the air collars between the triple-trees, shoot a little WD-40 on them. Mine were stuck and didn't want to come loose. I placed a 4-wheel dolly under the Beast and stacked 2x4 blocks until the dolly + stacks were slightly taller than the bottom of my crash bars. Then, with the Beast on the center stand, I had my neighbor push down on the trunk enough to lift the front wheel and slid the dolly under the crash bars. Remove all the stuff and slide the fork legs down until the air collars almost touch the bottom tree. BTW, you simply twist these collars to loosen them. Then twist back and force while pulling up to the top of the fork. That 6psi will leak out when the collar clears the fork leg. I made a tool to remove the damper. I bought an 8" bolt with nut and welded the nut to the end of the bolt (15/16" head, 5/8" shaft). I then slipped the bolt down into the fork leg using a 15/16" socket, long extension, and breaker-bar.
KIC Posted May 12, 2012 #4 Posted May 12, 2012 Good Luck on the job. The first time is intimidating but we are all here to help you through it. Here is the link to my experience: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66781&page=9 Bill
Yammer Dan Posted May 12, 2012 #5 Posted May 12, 2012 Be real carefull removing those drain screws. It will let you know real quick if any pressure is still in there. A rag, pan and slowly remove screw with rag covering everything. I thought mine was empty.....
KIC Posted May 12, 2012 #6 Posted May 12, 2012 Be real carefull removing those drain screws. It will let you know real quick if any pressure is still in there. A rag, pan and slowly remove screw with rag covering everything. I thought mine was empty..... Me too.... I still find places that oil shot to when I removed mine...
GaryZ Posted May 13, 2012 #7 Posted May 13, 2012 Me too.... I still find places that oil shot to when I removed mine... Oh yeah . . . I forgot about that. A little bit of air in the forks shoots oil across the garage. Don't ask me how I know this
JohnMidnight Posted May 14, 2012 Author #8 Posted May 14, 2012 Thanks guys. Alright now its time to save up to buy the rebuild kit from BuckEye performance. In the mean time... I'll balance those carbs of mine. Boy am I running RICH 29.5 MPG just doing it nice and easy.
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