twigg Posted May 7, 2012 #51 Posted May 7, 2012 two of them at almost 3v, and one at 2v. wheres the crying smiley...... Well at least we have found the source of the problem, now we need to get to the cause. Stator cover has to come off for an inspection.
Squeeze Posted May 7, 2012 #52 Posted May 7, 2012 Most likely, you got a nasty copper/cole Collection inside the Stator Cover.
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #53 Posted May 7, 2012 Well at least we have found the source of the problem, now we need to get to the cause. Stator cover has to come off for an inspection. NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! #$%#@! if orgot the process on how to do it...drain oil...middle gear cover, then stator cover right????
twigg Posted May 7, 2012 #54 Posted May 7, 2012 NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! #$%#@! if orgot the process on how to do it...drain oil...middle gear cover, then stator cover right???? I haven't done it, but from what I have read I think you can get away without draining the oil if the bike is on it's sidestand. Others will have a better idea.
Squeeze Posted May 7, 2012 #55 Posted May 7, 2012 Just put a 2x4 flat under the left Leg of the Center Stand and keep the Oil in. Some Oil will escape through the middle Drive Gear Cover and maybe a Coffee Cup full out of the Stator Cover, but's that's it. Also helps later while mounting the Cover, the Axles of the Reducer Gear will stay in Place. Also, watch and notice where the Knuckle of the Shift Linkage is at, you need to place the Linkage this way later.
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #56 Posted May 7, 2012 Just put a 2x4 flat under the left Leg of the Center Stand and keep the Oil in. Some Oil will escape through the middle Drive Gear Cover and maybe a Coffee Cup full out of the Stator Cover, but's that's it. Also helps later while mounting the Cover, the Axles of the Reducer Gear will stay in Place. Also, watch and notice where the Knuckle of the Shift Linkage is at, you need to place the Linkage this way later. the stator is 5 months old.....i put it in around christmas time...havnt had any problems till today...could it be anything else??
twigg Posted May 7, 2012 #57 Posted May 7, 2012 the stator is 5 months old.....i put it in around christmas time...havnt had any problems till today...could it be anything else?? Not enough juice is coming down those wires so you need to look at what is on the business end. Maybe the stator is loose on the shaft. Are they keyed?
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #58 Posted May 7, 2012 Not enough juice is coming down those wires so you need to look at what is on the business end. Maybe the stator is loose on the shaft. Are they keyed? no. just held in with, i think, 3 screws and locktite. and a wire holder if i remember right. good thing theres a 1year warranty. i will pull cover off tomorrow. see what i can see....
skydoc_17 Posted May 7, 2012 #59 Posted May 7, 2012 Hey Mike, I am sorry to hear that your stator has gone bad! This is the first one I have had any problems with. That stator is covered under the one year warranty, and I will throw in a new gasket set to help with the install. I have that stator in stock, and you can send the old one back after the install. I stand behind every Kit I sell, and it will be my pleasure to help you get your VR running again. I will get those parts right out to you, Priority Mail. Earl
twigg Posted May 7, 2012 #60 Posted May 7, 2012 Hey Mike, I am sorry to hear that your stator has gone bad! This is the first one I have had any problems with. That stator is covered under the one year warranty, and I will throw in a new gasket set to help with the install. I have that stator in stock, and you can send the old one back after the install. I stand behind every Kit I sell, and it will be my pleasure to help you get your VR running again. I will get those parts right out to you, Priority Mail. Earl I knew there was a reason that I like buying stuff from you, Earl. Just out of interest ... Is the stator you sell the same output as stock. or higher?
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #61 Posted May 7, 2012 Hey Mike, I am sorry to hear that your stator has gone bad! This is the first one I have had any problems with. That stator is covered under the one year warranty, and I will throw in a new gasket set to help with the install. I have that stator in stock, and you can send the old one back after the install. I stand behind every Kit I sell, and it will be my pleasure to help you get your VR running again. I will get those parts right out to you, Priority Mail. Earl thank you Godfather! why is it always "thats the first ive heard of" with me????? lol.does it come with the r/r? and copper washer?
bkuhr Posted May 7, 2012 #62 Posted May 7, 2012 Mike, before you crack the case again, I would like an additional test. First a little meter training-see attachment, to make sure you are reading the correct scale when doing you AC test. On the 0-50VAC selector, you read the red AC hash marks and line then up with the 0-50 black row of numbers. Also make sure you can not see a reflection of needle in mirror to either side of needle (makes sure looking straight on) Second, do the AC stator test at both idle and high rpm for all 3 wire sets Third, cut your solder joints, seperating the stator wires from the rectifier. Then do the AC test again on the stator side. (It is possible a shorted rectifier is causing low AC readings on the stator, removing the rectifier removes this possibility) Also keep in mind that a bad stator could have blown the rectifier, and a bad rectifier could blow a stator. Replacing any one could be blown again by the other. May consider replacing as a set.
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #63 Posted May 7, 2012 Mike, before you crack the case again, I would like an additional test. First a little meter training-see attachment, to make sure you are reading the correct scale when doing you AC test. On the 0-50VAC selector, you read the red AC hash marks and line then up with the 0-50 black row of numbers. Also make sure you can not see a reflection of needle in mirror to either side of needle (makes sure looking straight on) Second, do the AC stator test at both idle and high rpm for all 3 wire sets Third, cut your solder joints, seperating the stator wires from the rectifier. Then do the AC test again on the stator side. (It is possible a shorted rectifier is causing low AC readings on the stator, removing the rectifier removes this possibility) Also keep in mind that a bad stator could have blown the rectifier, and a bad rectifier could blow a stator. Replacing any one could be blown again by the other. May consider replacing as a set. will it start if i cut the 3 wires coming out of stator?
twigg Posted May 7, 2012 #64 Posted May 7, 2012 will it start if i cut the 3 wires coming out of stator? Yes, just run it only long enough to do the tests. It will start and run as long as there is power in the battery.
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #65 Posted May 7, 2012 i check at 2200 rpms...1 wire at 4v, the other 2 at about 3v.
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #66 Posted May 7, 2012 i cut the r/r out...same low voltage at idle and 2000 rpms.
bkuhr Posted May 7, 2012 #67 Posted May 7, 2012 Looks like really a bad stator, you may find like squeeze said, that something came loose and stator was rubbing against rotor, tearing it up. There is another test in the manual for testing the rectifier(diode)section of the RR. Now that the 3 wires are cut you will use the x1 ohm selector and the green ohm scale. This test only checks 1/2 of the RR. there is no test to test the regulator. If the rectifier test good, the regulator can still be bad. However if rectifier is bad, you KNOW you RR is bad. Will try to find and post the test, easier than typing it all out.
reddevilmedic Posted May 7, 2012 Author #68 Posted May 7, 2012 am i supposed to read ac red marks or dc black marks? its switched to acv 50. if i read the dc black marks..0-50...i still get readings at about 4v,
reddevilmedic Posted May 8, 2012 Author #70 Posted May 8, 2012 it barely registers at all. if you look at the red ac scale on my meter..it only goes to 3rd hash mark, which on the dc 0-50 scale is about 4 volts. i didnt even notice the mirror..always looking straight on...
reddevilmedic Posted May 8, 2012 Author #71 Posted May 8, 2012 here is rectifier directions do i start bike? or just turn ig on...
twigg Posted May 8, 2012 #72 Posted May 8, 2012 it barely registers at all. if you look at the red ac scale on my meter..it only goes to 3rd hash mark, which on the dc 0-50 scale is about 4 volts. i didnt even notice the mirror..always looking straight on... That last test, that Brian suggested, was the one that ruled out anything other than a stator issue. He suggested that test because a faulty Reg/Rec might have interfered with the results of the earlier tests. It's got to come out now ..... You might get lucky. If the screws holding the stator have come out (if that's possible), you may get away with it. It doesn't mean that your Reg/Rec is good, but it does mean that your stator is bad.
bkuhr Posted May 8, 2012 #73 Posted May 8, 2012 am i supposed to read ac red marks or dc black marks? its switched to acv 50. if i read the dc black marks..0-50...i still get readings at about 4v, Read the RED hash mark scale. Compared with the 0-50 black numbers, the large RED hashes would count 0-5-10-15-20-25-30-35-40-45-50. The small hashes have a value of ONE each when on this scale (5 small hashes between Large Hash 0-5)
bkuhr Posted May 8, 2012 #74 Posted May 8, 2012 do i start bike? or just turn ig on... neither, bike off. Only reason for this test is if it also tests bad, you MUST replace RR as well as stator, If it tests good you MIGHT get lucky and not have to replace RR
reddevilmedic Posted May 8, 2012 Author #75 Posted May 8, 2012 neither, bike off. Only reason for this test is if it also tests bad, you MUST replace RR as well as stator, If it tests good you MIGHT get lucky and not have to replace RR im not getting any readings at all with r/r test...set to 1 ohm, bike off.
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