Big drop in volts/no turn sigs/no start!help

[bkuhr]

Meter set for 50ACV, read the 3 white wires from the stator. Since your removed the connector, stab thru the 3 white wires from the stator, while idle and fast rpm, 1 wire at a time. Sometimes safety pin is better at stabbing thru wire, then touch meter lead to safety pin. Stagger the 3 stabs, and avoid excessive damage to wire insulation- when done should be able to roll wire in fingers and close stab hole in insulation. Aviod letting safety pin touch ground while doing this.

 

What does each read at idle and fast?

[twigg]

i backprobed a couple things on left side. fuel pump..fine..that black cylindrical thing..fine. not sure what else to check.or how. why dont turn signals work?

 

Well I have no idea

 

As they are a different circuit (demand side, not supply side) then we can worry about them when your battery is getting sufficient power to make them useful

[bkuhr]

i backprobed a couple things on left side. fuel pump..fine..that black cylindrical thing..fine. not sure what else to check.or how. why dont turn signals work?

 

Does the turn lights come on but not flash? Does the 4 ways work? Does the turn switch feel ok?

[Squeeze]

If the Signal Fuse is Ok, and the Fuse Holder is ok too, there's fair Chance that the Switch is dirty and/or the Contacts are corroded or something else went south.

 

But i think it would be best if you concentrate on first Things first. Which means you need to check the AC Output of the Stator.

 

You do that by setting the MM to 50 V AC and place the Leads between two of he three the white or yellow Wires coming from the Stator. Easiest place for you might be at the R/R Connector. You check each of the three Wires to the others, the Voltages should show arround 15 V when the Engine is on Idle. The Value isn't important, but the Voltages should nearly equal.

[reddevilmedic]

If the Signal Fuse is Ok, and the Fuse Holder is ok too, there's fair Chance that the Switch is dirty and/or the Contacts are corroded or something else went south.

 

But i think it would be best if you concentrate on first Things first. Which means you need to check the AC Output of the Stator.

 

You do that by setting the MM to 50 V AC and place the Leads between two of he three the white or yellow Wires coming from the Stator. Easiest place for you might be at the R/R Connector. You check each of the three Wires to the others, the Voltages should show arround 15 V when the Engine is on Idle. The Value isn't important, but the Voltages should nearly equal.

 

 

so i stab one yellow wire with red lead? what do i do with black lead?

[twigg]

so i stab one yellow wire with red lead? what do i do with black lead?

 

There are three wires.

 

Stab any two, then two different, then the final pairing.

 

The stator is three-phase AC. Each of those wires carries one phase which the rectifier converts to DC ... Then the Regulator limits the output to 14.5V

 

The AC voltage coming out is quite high when the phases are added, but should be 15 to 18V when measured as suggested.

 

All three "pairs" should read the same.

[Squeeze]

Stab another yellow(or white) Wire and take the first Reading. Then, leave the black Lead where it is at and stab the third Wire with the red Lead. Get the second Reading, then leave there and move the black where the red was first. That's the third reading.

[twigg]

Okay ... to make this easy to visualise ...

 

Imagine each of the three wires is labelled 1, 2 and 3

 

Stab the red lead in 1 and the black lead in 2

 

Then Red in 1 and black in 3

 

Then red in 2 and black in 3.

[reddevilmedic]

ok. i will go do that now. just noticed the hazard switch came loose. i have turn signals again. but still, low volts. going to go stab away~!

[reddevilmedic]

ok so it says to add "14" db at 50acv. that would give me 16 at each wire....sound right?

[reddevilmedic]

where did everybody go?????

[Prairiehammer]

ok so it says to add "14" db at 50acv. that would give me 16 at each wire....sound right?

 

:confused24: I don't know what the H---you are trying to say. "db"?? decibels?! "it says to add "14""...WHAT says to add 14? The meter? :confused:

[Squeeze]

where did everybody go?????

 

I'm here, sorry, but i discuss a 2 Liter Motor for the 2Gen Max and different Clutch Upgrades for the 2Gen Max at the same Time i'm typing here with you and the others.

 

Can't think about 14 db also ...

[reddevilmedic]

:confused24: I don't know what the H---you are trying to say. "db"?? decibels?! "it says to add "14""...WHAT says to add 14? The meter? :confused:

 

 

ya, the meter says to add 14db when the selector switch is set to 50 ac volts. heres a pic. the needle went 2 hash marks. so if i add 14 to that, it should give me 16v on each wire...i think...thats what im asking...

[Squeeze]

Forget those db's.

 

You should see the Needle between 10 and 20 Marks on the red AC Scale, that's where 15 should be at.

 

If your "two Hash Marks" are the same as 10, there's a Problem.

[OB-1]

ya, the meter says to add 14db when the selector switch is set to 50 ac volts. heres a pic. the needle went 2 hash marks. so if i add 14 to that, it should give me 16v on each wire...i think...thats what im asking...

 

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain or the note on the meter-face concerning dB. You are measuring AC Volts. Volts are volts and not related to dB in this case. Looking at your photos and post you say the voltage appears to be 14 volts AC. I ASSUME you are using the red dB scale when you say 14? If so, the actual AC voltage is approximately 18 volts.

[reddevilmedic]

crap!! im only getting about 2.5v!!!!!!

[reddevilmedic]

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain or the note on the meter-face concerning dB. You are measuring AC Volts. Volts are volts and not related to dB in this case. Looking at your photos and post you say the voltage appears to be 14 volts AC. I ASSUME you are using the red dB scale when you say 14? If so, the actual AC voltage is approximately 18 volts.

 

 

no! the needle barely moves. i switched to 10ac just to see, its only measuring 2.5v!!!

[OB-1]

That would indicate a bad stator... That's 2.5VAC with the bike running and everything connected, right?

[reddevilmedic]

That would indicate a bad stator... That's 2.5VAC with the bike running and everything connected, right?

 

right! i checked the wires at the point right after the solder joint between the stator and r/r. on the r/r side.

[OB-1]

right! i checked the wires at the point right after the solder joint between the stator and r/r. on the r/r side.

 

I would take a few minutes to verify all your measurements. The stator is bad if you are in fact measuring 2.5VAC at the stator with the bike running.

[Squeeze]

Looks like you're looking at at fried Stator soon. Is that 2.5 Volts on all three MEasurements or just between two Wires ?

[twigg]

right! i checked the wires at the point right after the solder joint between the stator and r/r. on the r/r side.

 

Do one more check before the solder joint .... ie. from the wire coming from the stator with nothing between.

 

If it's still reading 2.5V it has to be opened up to find out why.

[reddevilmedic]

Looks like you're looking at at fried Stator soon. Is that 2.5 Volts on all three MEasurements or just between two Wires ?

 

two of them at almost 3v, and one at 2v. wheres the crying smiley......

[reddevilmedic]

Do one more check before the solder joint .... ie. from the wire coming from the stator with nothing between.

 

If it's still reading 2.5V it has to be opened up to find out why.

 

thats where i just checked....2 wires at almost 3v, and 1 wire at 2v....