Big drop in volts/no turn sigs/no start!help

[reddevilmedic]

was riding, lost turn signals. sudden drop in voltage, limped home. now it want start. help!! i heard about some relay......is this it? where is it? whats the part number? who has one??

[Flyinfool]

Start by checking the battery voltage with a meter directly across the battery with the ignition on.

If it is less than 12V then you need to charge it and figure out why the bike is not charging it.

It could be as simple as a dirty connection. Don't forget that it could be a corroded connection at either end of the battery cables.

 

This is the easy part to check.

[reddevilmedic]

Start by checking the battery voltage with a meter directly across the battery with the ignition on.

If it is less than 12V then you need to charge it and figure out why the bike is not charging it.

It could be as simple as a dirty connection. Don't forget that it could be a corroded connection at either end of the battery cables.

 

This is the easy part to check.

 

i dont have a voltage meter. i pulled the battery(agm) to charge on float. i needed to replace starter relay anyhow. like i said, this was sudden. all systems checked before i left. rode it yesterday with no issues. i had turns signals for about an hour, then they quit working, and voltage began to drop rapidly...to about 8 volts..according to dash. got it home, put in garage, shut it off to cool...then no start. i checked ground, looks good. all fuses are intact (upgraded box).

[twigg]

i dont have a voltage meter. i pulled the battery(agm) to charge on float. i needed to replace starter relay anyhow. like i said, this was sudden. all systems checked before i left. rode it yesterday with no issues. i had turns signals for about an hour, then they quit working, and voltage began to drop rapidly...to about 8 volts..according to dash. got it home, put in garage, shut it off to cool...then no start. i checked ground, looks good. all fuses are intact (upgraded box).

 

Finding faults like this without a Voltmeter is way more difficult that going to Walmart and spending $20 on a Voltmeter.

 

First check .... Battery, engine off, no load ... Should be over 12.5V

 

If not .... Start engine (from a jump if you have to.

 

Stick the voltmeter across the battery and if it reads less than 14V, or more than 15V with the motor running over 2000 rpm, then you have a charging system failure.

 

This could be the stator, the Reg/Rec or the wiring in between.

 

Actually, if it's more than 15V you almost certainly need a new Regulator.

 

Check the continuity of all the wiring and especially the connector on the left hand side that carries the power from the charging system. They fail.

[reddevilmedic]

Finding faults like this without a Voltmeter is way more difficult that going to Walmart and spending $20 on a Voltmeter.

 

First check .... Battery, engine off, no load ... Should be over 12.5V

 

If not .... Start engine (from a jump if you have to.

 

Stick the voltmeter across the battery and if it reads less than 14V, or more than 15V with the motor running over 2000 rpm, then you have a charging system failure.

 

This could be the stator, the Reg/Rec or the wiring in between.

 

Actually, if it's more than 15V you almost certainly need a new Regulator.

 

Check the continuity of all the wiring and especially the connector on the left hand side that carries the power from the charging system. They fail.

 

 

i will go buy one right now. take me about an hour. just to let you know, new stator, r/r about 3 months ago. skydocs kit.

[twigg]

i will go buy one right now. take me about an hour. just to let you know, new stator, r/r about 3 months ago. skydocs kit.

 

Then it's probably most likely to be either a dead battery or a poor connection.

 

You will never regret buying a meter.

 

When I came from England to the US, the only tools I ever carried all the time were a decent MultiMeter, and a set of jewelers screwdrivers.

 

I still use that meter ... all the time.

[OB-1]

We'll all know a lot more once you have a voltmeter. One possible cause is a sorted cell in the battery.

[reddevilmedic]

ok, i got one. i have NO IDEA how to use it. heres a pic, what do i set it on?? im going outside to re-install batt then come back. thx

[Keemez]

Plug the black lead into the lower left hole, the red lead into the lower right hole. Turn the dial to the 10:00 position (DC 50V) and touch the lead probes to the battery posts. Simple as that.

[Squeeze]

Black Probe goes to left Plug, Red Probe goes to the lower right Plug, set the MM to DC 50 V and put the red Probe to the Battery plus, the black Probe to Battery negative. Check the End to the Scales and look for the "50". Keep your Eye on that Scale on go back where Needle is and read the Value.

 

You really need to watch the Polarity with that analog Meter. If you put it on backwards, you could fry the Coil of the MM.

[reddevilmedic]

ignition off...12v, ignition on..about 11.8, running @2200rpm..12v.

[twigg]

ignition off...12v, ignition on..about 11.8, running @2200rpm..12v.

 

First off ... 12V says the battery is almost dead flat.

 

The 12V @ 2000 rpm is saying that it is not charging.

 

Go through all the connectors and ground in the charging circuit and check they are okay before we start to panic.

[OB-1]

The charging system isn't working. I recommend checking all the connections first since everything was working and quit while riding. If you're lucky you'll find an unplugged or loose connection.

[Flyinfool]

Also check the main fuse.

[reddevilmedic]

i checked everything on left side of bike. looks good, i hardwired r/r and stator when i did it. checked all connections. everything at fuse block looks good. checked ground on rt side again, looks good. btw...still no turn signals.

[twigg]

i checked everything on left side of bike. looks good, i hardwired r/r and stator when i did it. checked all connections. everything at fuse block looks good. checked ground on rt side again, looks good. btw...still no turn signals.

 

It might be time, if all the connections are good, to start testing the Stator Output and Reg/Rec circuits.

 

Do you have a Yamaha Shop Manual?

[reddevilmedic]

Also check the main fuse.

 

main fuse good, checked and greased connection.

[twigg]

main fuse good, checked and greased connection.

 

Di-electric grease is an insulator, and it's possible to use too much. Check for continuity across all the greased connections ... just on the off-chance

[reddevilmedic]

It might be time, if all the connections are good, to start testing the Stator Output and Reg/Rec circuits.

 

Do you have a Yamaha Shop Manual?

 

no.

[reddevilmedic]

Di-electric grease is an insulator, and it's possible to use too much. Check for continuity across all the greased connections ... just on the off-chance

 

how?

[reddevilmedic]

btw...before i went and got multimeter, it wouldnt start. i put batt on charger while i was gon, 2amp trickle, for about 90 min. then it started. not sure if this means anything....

[twigg]

btw...before i went and got multimeter, it wouldnt start. i put batt on charger while i was gon, 2amp trickle, for about 90 min. then it started. not sure if this means anything....

 

Yeah ... It means your battery charger is working, and your bike charging isn't

 

Back probe each side of the connectors to check that electricity is getting through them.

[reddevilmedic]

Yeah ... It means your battery charger is working, and your bike charging isn't

 

Back probe each side of the connectors to check that electricity is getting through them.

 

which connections? remember, i soldered everthing together on the r/r and stator.

[reddevilmedic]

i backprobed a couple things on left side. fuel pump..fine..that black cylindrical thing..fine. not sure what else to check.or how. why dont turn signals work?

[Prairiehammer]

Turn signals and instruments are supplied by the "SIGNAL" fuse (20amp). Use your new multimeter and check on either side of the SIGNAL fuse for battery voltage. Could be blown fuse or faulty fuse clips. Probably should upgrade fuse block.