bkuhr Posted May 8, 2012 #26 Posted May 8, 2012 OK Not running you look for the same DC resistance between all combinations of any two white wires. Running, you are looking for equal AC voltage between all combinations of any two wires. No, I'm not sure of the values but someone will chime in. If your stator is bad one combination of wires will read different from the rest, whether it be resistance or voltage. The combinations, take 2 wires and check. Of those 2, use one of them to check the third wire. Then check the third wire against the other wire you first checked. If the DC resistance is all very close then at least you don't have an open winding, but you could have a winding shorting out with another winding in the same coil, so you still need to compare the output voltages to all be the same as well. The stator is actually 3 coils connected in the center in what is known as a wye (Y) configuration... .42ohms +-15%@68F, yes point 42, less than 1 ohm. Lowest scale, Short meter leads. Zero meter if possible, otherwise record and subtract any LEAD resistance from measurment of stator wires.
bongobobny Posted May 8, 2012 #27 Posted May 8, 2012 See? There ya go! 420 milliohms! OK Hal, pure resistance of a piece of wire, in this case wrapped in a coil is expressed as DC resistance measured in ohms aqnd is not to be confused with AC i9mpedance also expressed in ohms. When you read impedance you are looking at the "j" factor of both DC resistance AND the sum of the inductive reactance and the capacitive reactance. A coil is an inductor as opposed to a capacitor and it "resists" AC current flow differently than a DC current. The output of your stator is an AC current, the rotor is the magnetic part that's attached to the crankshaft and spins around while your stator stays still, and as the magnetic lines of flux from spinning magnets from the rotor pass the coil a rising and decaying voltage is created across the coil asnd depending on wnether the north or south side of the magnet is passing, the current will flow either in one direction or the other Your stator is a 3 phase output AC voltage/current and the rectifier/regulator converts the AC to DC for the battery. The rectifier changes it to DC and the regulator keeps the output at a steady level voltage and regulates the current as needed to charge the battery. Now that you are thoroughly confused...
bongobobny Posted May 8, 2012 #28 Posted May 8, 2012 .42ohms +-15%@68F, yes point 42, less than 1 ohm. Lowest scale, Short meter leads. Zero meter if possible, otherwise record and subtract any LEAD resistance from measurment of stator wires. I keep forgetting the cheap meters that most people use do not have a 2 ohm or 200 milliohm scale! I'm used to autoranging meters at work and bonding resistance meters with built in 4 wire system...
Guest Posted May 8, 2012 #29 Posted May 8, 2012 Hal, yep, if its under warranty I would let the dealer look at it. Might as well take advantage of the warranty. As far as the regulator/rectifier goes, while it may not be corroded, the wires going in, usually the red wire can heat up and get burnt, causing an intermittent charging problem that will eventually become more permanent. I had to rewire my harness to the regulator and it has been fine ever since. It could be other things as well like the stator. Let the dealer fix it for free.
Bobby G Posted May 8, 2012 #30 Posted May 8, 2012 By any chance, did you ever get the bike jump started off another bike or vehicle while it was running?? If so, I can almost guaranty that your rectifier or stator is blown, or both. Sounds like your stator is blown anyway. You've got a warranty, so best to use it and git er done at the dealership. And be sure to tell them that while they're in there to grease up all of the connections. Most stealers won't do it unless you tell them to. Good luck!
Dave77459 Posted May 8, 2012 #31 Posted May 8, 2012 I'm sorry I missed this until now. I had a similar problem that I let two experts diagnose on Kreg's MD. It took them most of a day, and they knew what they were doing. One of them had problems because he was working with someone else's voltmeter, and it wasn't like his. In the end, I think the problem is that my brand new battery was bad. Four months old, and four months of problems. I called a Yamaha dealer, who said a big percentage of their high-dollar batteries are DOA. They have to deep test them before they go out the door as a result, because otherwise the battery supplier would not take them back on warranty. He had three new batteries test bad the day I called. Seems like an epidemic. He could not recommend an autoparts shop's battery as a result, because they are not tested before they are sold. I bet the same is with Wally World. When they said it was good, did they deep test it? Taking it to the stealership for warranty service was the right call, IMO. Either that, or calling an FJR rider that we know (and is oveworked). Dave
Santa Hal Posted May 8, 2012 Author #32 Posted May 8, 2012 Hi Dave, Hope you and Jamie are doing better. No Dave my problem is totaly different than yours I believe. Yours would discharge the battery while sitting there. Mine goes dead while it is driving and is fine when it just sits there. But, anyway I took it to Yamaha @ 10 this morning and it sat there all day. I went to check on it tonight and it was still in the same spot. This does not surprise me though. Anyway they said they were going to check on it tomorrow. We will see. I bet I will be without a bike for at least 2wks, thats my opion anyway. Hal
Kregerdoodle Posted May 8, 2012 #33 Posted May 8, 2012 Thats the same slack %$$ stealership that was suposed to be at the maint day, but never showed.....good luck Hal, hope they figure it out fast. They will never get a dime of mine, glad your bike is still under warranty.. Hi Dave, Hope you and Jamie are doing better. No Dave my problem is totaly different than yours I believe. Yours would discharge the battery while sitting there. Mine goes dead while it is driving and is fine when it just sits there. But, anyway I took it to Yamaha @ 10 this morning and it sat there all day. I went to check on it tonight and it was still in the same spot. This does not surprise me though. Anyway they said they were going to check on it tomorrow. We will see. I bet I will be without a bike for at least 2wks, thats my opion anyway. Hal
Santa Hal Posted May 10, 2012 Author #34 Posted May 10, 2012 Yahma looked @ my bike today and they found out tonight that the rectifier is bad. The parts won't be here for 7 days. Is the rectifier the same as a voltage regulator? The 7 days will be the longest days it has sat without me riding it since I bought it in 09. I ride her everyday. Hal
twigg Posted May 10, 2012 #35 Posted May 10, 2012 Yahma looked @ my bike today and they found out tonight that the rectifier is bad. The parts won't be here for 7 days. Is the rectifier the same as a voltage regulator? The 7 days will be the longest days it has sat without me riding it since I bought it in 09. I ride her everyday. Hal It's a two part unit all wrapped up in one housing. The Rectifier takes the approx 50V AC and converts it to DC. Then the Regulator side limits the voltage to 14.4V. The stator gives it's maximum output all the time, the excess power is lost to heat, which is why they are heavily finned and out in the airflow.
Kregerdoodle Posted May 10, 2012 #36 Posted May 10, 2012 Glad to hear they found what the problem was, sucks that it will take 7 days for the parts. Yahma looked @ my bike today and they found out tonight that the rectifier is bad. The parts won't be here for 7 days. Is the rectifier the same as a voltage regulator? The 7 days will be the longest days it has sat without me riding it since I bought it in 09. I ride her everyday. Hal
Santa Hal Posted May 10, 2012 Author #37 Posted May 10, 2012 It's a two part unit all wrapped up in one housing. The Rectifier takes the approx 50V AC and converts it to DC. Then the Regulator side limits the voltage to 14.4V. The stator gives it's maximum output all the time, the excess power is lost to heat, which is why they are heavily finned and out in the airflow. Thanks for clairfying this. All in all my bike braking down wasn't all bad. Because I learned a lot about it. Yeah it does suck that it's 7 days from getting the parts. But two bolts and plug it in, hopefully it shouldn't be to much longer after that. Just for grins I am going to call the other Yamaha Dealership in town and see if they have the rectifier. Thanks for all of the help I appreciate it. Hal
bongobobny Posted May 10, 2012 #38 Posted May 10, 2012 I have one from my '09 that is coming out of the bike tonight or tomorrow night you can have as I am replacing my stator and R/R for better versions, and you are welcome to it if you want it...
Santa Hal Posted May 10, 2012 Author #40 Posted May 10, 2012 I have one from my '09 that is coming out of the bike tonight or tomorrow night you can have as I am replacing my stator and R/R for better versions, and you are welcome to it if you want it... I appreciate the offer but right now the warranty is going to take care of it. I hear though that the Stator will most likly go out now. But they won't place under warranty right now becuase it is not bad at the moment. Thanks Man, Hal
Santa Hal Posted May 25, 2012 Author #41 Posted May 25, 2012 (edited) Update took it to Yamaha they put in a voltage regulator and that was it. It seems to be working on about 2000 RPM Rev. I am only getting about a 13.8. Everyone on the site says it suppose to be 14.5. The Dealer says this is adequate that 13.8 is fine. I checked battery at Yamaha it says its fine. I don't think they checked the stator at all. I guess I will ride it and see..... Hal Edited May 27, 2012 by Santa Hal
OB-1 Posted May 25, 2012 #42 Posted May 25, 2012 My 06 RSV was having similar symptoms, but everything checked out fine. Finally I checked the output voltage of the stator. Bad news... Low voltage on all three phases. In troubleshooting this I learned that the charging system can at times produce 13-14VDC at the battery with stator phase voltages of approximately A: 3VAC, B: 10-17VAC, C: 7-10VAC. If you have the ability, I would measure the stator voltages. They should all be approximately the same and should vary with RPM from about 15 to 50VAC or more at high RPM. It's possible that one or more phases in the stator has a winding to winding short. This reduces the stator output voltage and of course charging system capacity and could be the reason for the lower than expected voltage of your charging system. Here's a good article for troubleshooting the charging system: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=002007&id=400
Cougar Posted May 25, 2012 #43 Posted May 25, 2012 My up-date , since I have changed out my stator and mossfet r/r a couple months ago, my charging is at 14.4 all the time now. and no more problems. and it will still charge at that rate with all my stuff on as well. very happy with my new install. Jeff
Santa Hal Posted May 27, 2012 Author #44 Posted May 27, 2012 When on about a 100 miles trip this weekend. Charging system seems to be fine, however still charging @ 13.8, but I did not take my trailer which has regular lights and no leds. I don't know if it will keep up the charge running the trailer. Hal PS Our daughters wedding was AWESOME!!!
Squidley Posted May 28, 2012 #45 Posted May 28, 2012 When on about a 100 miles trip this weekend. Charging system seems to be fine, however still charging @ 13.8, but I did not take my trailer which has regular lights and no leds. I don't know if it will keep up the charge running the trailer. Hal PS Our daughters wedding was AWESOME!!! 13.8 volts is sufficient Hal, the faster the RPM's the better it will keep charging, your fine, go riding
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