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Radial brake calipers mounted on 1st gen, R1 6 piston calipers

dingy
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dingy

dingy

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Posted (edited)

The radial brake conversion is now a reality !!

 

I received the machined brackets from Bob Meyers (member here) today. Very nice machine work at a very good price for a single set prototypes.

 

They mounted on the bike perfectly. My day job is a mechanical design engineer. I have the CAD tools at home to be able to design & get plastic prototypes made for this conversion.

 

The calipers came from a came off a 2011 R1, with 45 miles on it, they upgraded brakes on it. Not wrecked and in perfect condition. Squeeze convinced me this was the way to go if I wanted something better than the R1 4 pot calipers that I had on the bike. Rotors are 298mm x 5mm from a 2003 FJR.

 

I went through 2 versions of a rapid prototype that the local high school did for me at a decent price. Calipers & brackets have been run through a CAD FEA software package that calculates stresses on a part and determines its suitability for a given application.

 

Original thread on this process if you are interested, started out going to use a set of YZF calipers. Never mounted them. This is the 4th set of brakes that has been on the bike. Stock set, MKII set, 2000 R1 quad pistons, and now 2011 R1 six piston radials. Needless to say, but the brakes are delinked. Rear end is a modified under slung VMax setup that was required to use when the VMax 15" rim was mounted on last winter.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65445

 

Have a few more minor tasks to get done & bike will be ready to go. This winter has seen the full V-boost controller added, Marks header, upgraded brakes, painted yellow, rear speakers, replaced some less than perfect body panels with better ones, VMax front wheel, some powder coating, accent LED lighting and other tasks done to it.

 

Hopefully, I haven't crossed that fine line between great brakes and to much brakes !!!

 

Gary

Edited by dingy
dingy

dingy

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Not sure what the brackets would sell for if I would pursue that. Calipers and rotors are often available on ebay. There are several sets of calipers on there now. 2nd gen Vmax calipers are the same.

 

Overall I have a about $700 in this project. That includes set of calipers, rotors, aluminum, 2 prototypes, machining costs and bolts.

 

A lot of development time that is not included also.

 

Bike will most likely have all the body panels on this weekend. Have 2 more strip LED accent lights to mount and completing wiring hookups. Picture from last night attached.

 

Gary

lsutley

lsutley

Posted
Posted

Not only beautiful machine work but the calculations for fitment look to be perfect.

 

You have just set the bar one notch higher for us copycats.:bang head:

 

Fantastic job!! :thumbsup2:

skydoc_17

skydoc_17

Posted
Posted

BRAVO Gary!

I know that you have been working on this for a while, it must feel good to finally bring this huge brake project to an end! I am glad to see that you hooked up with Bob Myers, he is good people. I too look forward to seeing this machine at Don's this year. We NEED to put Squeeze in a BIG USPS Flat Rate Box and ship him over here for this!

Congrats on a job extremely well done! :thumbsup2::clap2::thumbsup2::clap2:

Earl

bongobobny

bongobobny

Posted
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Yah! I may PM Bob to see what he wants for a set! I';m looking at a set of gold R1's but would like to consider the new 6 pots, saw a great deal on fleabay the other day...

Squeeze

Squeeze

Posted
Posted

Gary, you did a outstanding Job, Congrats !! !!

 

:happy34::happy34::happy34::happy34::happy34::happy34::happy34::happy34:

 

The only Thing left now is to have them Brackets black anodized. Will look much better on your Bike and black will help dissipating the Heat a little.

 

You're already set, the Future could bring you four Collars, four longer Bolts and two 320 mm Rotors. I'm looking forward to have mine.

Squeeze

Squeeze

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Posted

Gary, one extra Tip for you.

 

If you have enough Room in front of the Rod of the rear Caliper to connect the Bracket to the Frame instead of bolting it to the Swing Arm, you'd gain some Stability under rear braking.

 

The pull Rod would pull the Frame down, straigtening and the Bike and Chassis. A clamp-on Style Bracket to mount a longer Rod would get it done.

Bob Myers

Bob Myers

Posted
Posted
Gary, one extra Tip for you.

 

If you have enough Room in front of the Rod of the rear Caliper to connect the Bracket to the Frame instead of bolting it to the Swing Arm, you'd gain some Stability under rear braking.

 

The pull Rod would pull the Frame down, straigtening and the Bike and Chassis. A clamp-on Style Bracket to mount a longer Rod would get it done.

Wow, a floater rear caliper would certainly stabilize the rear wanting to rise under braking.

With the design of the caliper mount he is using the only way to float would be to leave axle loose, I think. Designing a collar for it to float on and capture the wheel/swingarm would be easy for him .

Bob Myers

Bob Myers

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Yikes!

 

Now NO STOPPIES Gary!!

 

 

Looking good. And I've been wondering how that yellow turned out.

 

Mike

Before I even saw that pic I had a mental vision of him clamping that lever right hard and doing a stoppie!

You can bet learning moderation will be first thing he accomplishes!

Condor

Condor

Posted
Posted
The radial brake conversion is now a reality !!

 

 

 

Hopefully, I haven't crossed that fine line between great brakes and to much brakes !!!

 

Gary

 

Nice design Gary. I don't think you'll have a problem over braking, or at least any more than can happen with a set of early R1's. With the 1-2 split pad set up and sequential application it looks like it'll be a great mod with an improved 'feel'.... :thumbsup2:

dingy

dingy

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  • Author
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Brakes are permanently mounted and bled now. Powder coated brackets red. Bleeding went better than it has in past. I didn't have good lever after full bleed, so I tied lever back to grip for about 3 hours. When I released it lever, lever engagement was great. I don't understand how this trick works, but I have seen it work 1st hand several times now.

 

Even with the total of 12 pistons on the front master I still have very good lever travel. I have plenty of space between grip & lever with the lever been pulled very hard. I have a 14mm MKII front master on bike.

 

Bike is completely together as of 9:00 tonight with a couple of small things to tidy up. All the body work is on. Didn't take it out and try it as it was late.

 

The radio sounds fantastic with decent rear speakers in it.

 

It even got some LED effects lighting on it I got for a Christmas present 2 years ago.

 

Gary

bongobobny

bongobobny

Posted
Posted

OK Gary the thoery behind tying the brake handle is that is the highest point and trapped air bubbles everntually rise to the top. By appling pressure to the calipers it forces the trapped air to the top as the force is sending pressure to the calipers...

dingy

dingy

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I do have to say Gary, that definately is a Special Edition.

Just out of curosity, how long has it been since you have ridden this bike?

RandyA

 

Last October was last I rode it. I'm in Ohio. I didn't get much riding in last year. I had back surgery in July last summer. Put 1,100 miles on it, not much for me.

 

I haven't had it out this year yet. Will in the next couple of days though.

 

Gary

Squeeze

Squeeze

Posted
Posted

Congrats Gary, impressive Job you've done there. I gotta admit, even though i had a yellow BMW 630 in the Past, i'm not too fond of it on the 1Gen. But you have to like the Color and you do, so i'm happy for you. Outstanding Job !! !!

Squeeze

Squeeze

Posted
Posted
Wow, a floater rear caliper would certainly stabilize the rear wanting to rise under braking.

With the design of the caliper mount he is using the only way to float would be to leave axle loose, I think. Designing a collar for it to float on and capture the wheel/swingarm would be easy for him .

 

Bob, i'm not sure what you're saying there, but the Bracket for the rear Caliper doesn't move at all under braking, even if the front of the Rod is mounted to the Frame instead of the Swing Arm, the Force on the Bracket under braking will go through the Rod and move the Frame, but not the Bracket in Relation to it's original Position.

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