Preferred Fluids

[parsonsm]

As I get into restoring my 84 VR, it has been recommended that I replace all the fluids. So, which ones do you recommend and where have you found is the best place to get them? Specifically thinking: oil, final gear, coolant, etc.

 

Again, an really new and trying to get up to speed as quick as possible.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

[Power Trippin]

Hey Mark,

 

I know this is going to get a lot of attention from people, but here goes. I use rotella 15w40 in my engine. I do get some clutch slippage if I am really gettin on the fun handle. However, I rarely do, so I live with it for now. I have checked my clutches and they are fine, so for now, I say, live and let live. Coolant, you can use either the ethlyene glychol(green) or the long life,(orange) just stay with either, once you have decided. You should flush out the cooling system before changing to a different type. The rear end I use 80w90 synthetic and don't forget to do your rear spline maintenance. Most people say the Honda Moly 60 paste is the best, others will disagree. I found the Honda Moly in a 3oz. tube on Ebay for 11 bucks shipped for free to my house, can't beat that. Get her on the road and enjoy the ride!

[bongobobny]

OK brake fluid for a 1st gen is DOT 3. I prefer a synthetic as the boiling point is higher. Motor oil, do NOT use any additives or mileage extending auto oils as we have what is known as a "wet" clutch, so if you don't want your clutch to slip, don't use those. Use either motorcycle oil or diesel oil, 15W45, like Shell Rotella as mentioned or Chevron Delo or Mobil Devron. Anti Freeze, make sure it is compatible with aluminum!! Very important!

[twigg]

Dot 3 or 4 Brake Fluid .... Either will work, 4 is better

 

15W40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil - 4000 Mile change interval.

 

80W90 Gear Oil in Final Drive

 

Pick pretty much any coolant. Check, but these days they are all pretty safe for aluminum.

 

87 Octane Gas, either with or without ethanol, and mine is perfectly happy on 86 with ethanol, as I found out in Colorado.

 

If you are doing a baseline maintenance, spring for a K&N Filter. None of the filters are cheap but with the K&N you only buy once. No jetting needed. Oil filters are cheap.

 

Check the valves and change the valve cover gaskets for the newer versions (skydoc_17 has them). Do that before you try to sync the carbs. Change the fluid in the brakes and clutch.

 

Thoroughly flush the cooling system, which is harder than it sounds. Remove the small pipe above the drain valve and check that it isn't completely blocked. If it is, remove the radiator and clean it properly. It can take a few tries to get the beast cooling effectively. Just note that when it is in good order, it WILL keep the needle in the green in traffic at ambient temps over 100F. If yours won't, it's not clean

 

That would be a decent start and I know it answered a few questions you didn't ask.

 

Enjoy, they are fun to ride.

[Rick Haywood]

NEW:confused24:

[Yammer Dan]

What Rick said!! So many answers so little time.....