frankd Posted April 25, 2012 #26 Posted April 25, 2012 Mine was no-where near that easy. I trashed one puller, and then tightened the 2nd puller about a half turn tighter than I thought was safe. Then I beat it with a hammer.....no go. As was suggested here, I made a safe landing port for it and left it overnight. Next morning it was still tight--the gremlins were busy elswhere that night. After loosening and tightening the puller a couple times more, and hitting the bolt with a hammer each time, it finally came off. BTW, before you reinstall the flywheel, clean all the oil off of it and the crankshaft (where they meet). THis is one area you don't want lubricated. I used lighter fluid because that's one of the purest solvents easily available. Straight naptha is even better. Frank D.
kevin5549 Posted April 25, 2012 Author #27 Posted April 25, 2012 Got my bolts at lunch. $6.00 for 6 bolts not bad. I got two different lengths going to use the shortest i can. Going to try and pull the rotor after work. Wish me luck.
kevin5549 Posted April 26, 2012 Author #28 Posted April 26, 2012 Got the rotor off tonight and boxed to send to Dano. Man that thing was on there. We broke the plug on the end of the puller. Glad I tied the rotor to the bike. So any tips or words of wisdom on the reinstall?
Stanman Posted April 26, 2012 #29 Posted April 26, 2012 Mine was no-where near that easy. I trashed one puller, and then tightened the 2nd puller about a half turn tighter than I thought was safe. Then I beat it with a hammer.....no go. As was suggested here, I made a safe landing port for it and left it overnight. Next morning it was still tight--the gremlins were busy elswhere that night. After loosening and tightening the puller a couple times more, and hitting the bolt with a hammer each time, it finally came off. BTW, before you reinstall the flywheel, clean all the oil off of it and the crankshaft (where they meet). THis is one area you don't want lubricated. I used lighter fluid because that's one of the purest solvents easily available. Straight naptha is even better. Frank D. To clean the oil off try starting fluid. That's what I used for cleaning hydraulic couplers on the tractor when I was farming. Cleans very well and dries fast.
Dano Posted April 26, 2012 #30 Posted April 26, 2012 That's the easy part.... Good job on getting it off, glad it "popped" off for ya! NOW you know what we were talkin' about!
Dragonslayer Posted April 26, 2012 #31 Posted April 26, 2012 We didn't think about the BIG hammer trick!!Yea why didn't someone mention the hammer thing earlier.
Dragonslayer Posted April 26, 2012 #32 Posted April 26, 2012 BTW since I have a Gen1 doe that make me one of the cool kids now? I always wanted to be cool.Absolutely:bluesbrother::cool10:
capn eddie Posted April 26, 2012 #33 Posted April 26, 2012 Yea why didn't someone mention the hammer thing earlier. I mentioned the hammer trick in a post when i pulled mine off about 2 years ago. first attemped with old puller that broke then bought a puller from pcw racing made for the VMAX flywheel tightend it with 1/2 inch impact and hit shaft of puller with hammer and it came off first hit. worked so good i tryed it on a second bike with same out come.
Squeeze Posted April 26, 2012 #34 Posted April 26, 2012 I also use a Puller specific made for the Vmax Rotor. Then, I use a long 32 mm Box End Wrench to hold the Rotor in Place, mostly place a Block of Wood on the Floor underneath the End of the Wrench to hold it. Then i use a T-Handle on a 1/2" Socket and a 3 ft long Pipe to extend the Leverage. Works like Charm as long as the Puller is up to the Job.
kevin5549 Posted May 4, 2012 Author #35 Posted May 4, 2012 I got my parts in yesterday and man did Dano do a good job. This rotor in the bomb. So my question is this: Does this rotor go on the same way as the other came off and How do you tell if it is seated correctly so the bolt won't back out? Thanks guys for all your help.
Dano Posted May 4, 2012 #36 Posted May 4, 2012 Hey Kevin, put just a dab of oil on your crankshaft and inside the rotor that matches up to the crank, line up the keyslot in the rotor with the key on the crank (with the front edge of the key pointed in to the rotor), then slide the rotor onto the crank as far as you can (may take a couple of taps with a hammer to help out), then insert the bolt and CRANK it as tight as possible (easier to do with an electric or air powered impact gun!). If you have one after that, check the lbs/ft torque you've got on it to make sure it's over 100 ft/lbs of torque. It won't come loose because the crank turns opposite the way as you tighten so the bolt won't loosen up. Oh, if the crank wants to turn 'cause you're just using a regular ratchet, put the bike into gear!! Good luck Dano
kevin5549 Posted May 5, 2012 Author #37 Posted May 5, 2012 I got the parts on and no Parts left over. Trying to change the oil filter but the nut is rounded. Any tricks for that.
kevin5549 Posted May 8, 2012 Author #38 Posted May 8, 2012 I got the oil and plugs changed and the starter clutch on. Charged the battery and tried to start the bike. It started pouring gas out the over flows on all carbs. I let it sit for a few minutes and with the choke off and the throttle almost wide open it fired and ran for a minute or so. I now have hope for this bike. I have sea foam in the gas so maybe it will work stuff loose. Anyway I want to thank all of you for the advise and Dano for the super job on the clutch.
Neshobanakni Posted May 30, 2012 #39 Posted May 30, 2012 Dano: Can you do this for a Vmax? Want to get that running first before getting back to my '83 Venture. I've been out of commission for a while (4th surgery on my eye today since november) and all my bikes are on injured reserve.
Dano Posted May 30, 2012 #40 Posted May 30, 2012 Sure can, let me know when you want to send it up so's I can order the parts, same price to you as to others.
friesman Posted May 30, 2012 #41 Posted May 30, 2012 Dano: Can you do this for a Vmax? Want to get that running first before getting back to my '83 Venture. I've been out of commission for a while (4th surgery on my eye today since november) and all my bikes are on injured reserve. Glad youre doing ok after the eye surgery, after a while you kinda start feeling like a pin cushion... There are a few of us around that have had serious eye surgeries and are still doing well and riding. Dano will get ya fixed up and back up and running as soon as youre ready. Brian
kevin5549 Posted June 2, 2012 Author #42 Posted June 2, 2012 UPDATE: Put the bike in the shop to get the carbs cleaned. Picked it up yesterday and rode it for around 100 miles. It ran ok but would develop a backfire at times around 4000rpm and at idle but it was not all the time. Maybe just need to run it for awhile? The bike sat for at least 2 years before i got it. Next I got up this morning to take a ride and when i checked the oil site glass it was empty!!! Now i did not notice any smoke while riding and it didn't smoke when it was started. Do you think with it sitting so long the seals and such dried out and that is where the oil went? One last question, at the rear of the bike under the seat there is a green wire and a red wire, I have look at the manual and can't seem to find them, what do they go to. The PO did a real bad job of replacing the fuse block and hacked the wiring real bad so i am trying to clean that up. Want to thank all of you again for all the help it seems like this will be a great bike. I will get some pics up of it soon.
Squeeze Posted June 2, 2012 #43 Posted June 2, 2012 Yea why didn't someone mention the hammer thing earlier. Maybe it's because some People think, it's not a good Idea to hit the Crankshaft and all the Bearings within with a BIG Hammer.... at least, i'm thinking that. I didn't see it mentioned, but when you didn't change the Oil, there's a Chance there was some the Fuel in the Oil, which evaporated over the running Time. Just top the Oil off and check the Level often until you you gathered reliable Data. You could also check the Coolant Reservoir if there's some Oil in the Coolant. Unlikely, but happens.
kevin5549 Posted June 2, 2012 Author #44 Posted June 2, 2012 Thanks for the quick reply. I plan to refill and keep a close eye on it and will report back. I did get the oil changed had to beat a socket on the bolt to get it off. BTW the socket is still there. I think i might just get it spot welded on and be done.
Venturous Randy Posted June 2, 2012 #45 Posted June 2, 2012 Thanks for the quick reply. I plan to refill and keep a close eye on it and will report back. I did get the oil changed had to beat a socket on the bolt to get it off. BTW the socket is still there. I think i might just get it spot welded on and be done. Are you checking the oil with the bike level, as on the center stand? If you are checking it on the side stand, it will read low. RandyA
kevin5549 Posted June 3, 2012 Author #46 Posted June 3, 2012 Well I learned something today. I put the bike on the center stand and all the oil came back. So now i wonder why the oil pressure light came on every now and then?
Keemez Posted June 3, 2012 #47 Posted June 3, 2012 So now i wonder why the oil pressure light came on every now and then? It's not actually a pressure switch- just a quantity/level float. See this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51164
kevin5549 Posted June 3, 2012 Author #48 Posted June 3, 2012 Thanks for the link. If it comes on and stays i will repair. Otherwise i will just check oil daily. Man you guys are on top of things! By far the best money i spent was the 12 bucks to join this site. Anyone in the Senatobia, MS area want to go for a ride tomorrow after Church? I do know some ice cream stops...
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