Starter Clutch Removal

[kevin5549]

Sooo New guy here trying to remove the starter clutch so i can send to Dano. I got the covers off no problem. How do you lock up the rotor to get the bolt out and do you have to take the gear loose before you pull the rotor? Thanks Kevin:confused24:

[Dano]

Hey Kevin, just put the bike into gear or use a pneumatic air hammer gun to take the bolt loose. Then you'll need to use a bolt-on 3 finger gear puller to take the rotor off. Tie a small rope around the rotor and leave about 3 feet in front of it clear with some padding laying there 'cause it might be overnight when it pops off!! Of course, that's after you've taken all your spare time to get it off and it don't want to come off, then you leave the remover tightened up on there all night and VOILA, the next morning it looks like the gremlins have done the job for ya!

[kevin5549]

Thanks. Never thought to put in gear. DUH! Trying to work on it at night after work so the brain not so good. I was smart enough to take pics of everything as i dis assembled. Do you need to loosen the gear behind the rotor first or no?

[Snaggletooth]

Oh yeah sure.... the gremlims get all the credit!

 

But be sure to secure the rotor some how so it don't come off when you aren't expecting it. I put down a stack of packing quilts under and about a foot and a half away from the bike to pad the landing. It don't slide off like a harmonic.... It POPS off.

 

As Dan described... I found mine laying on the pads the next morning after giving up and going to bed and accidentaly leaving the puller on and fully tightened. Just pure luck.

 

Glad I didn't clean up and put the quilts away that night.

 

Unless you are a Russian shotput catcher ..... it ain't something you want to try to catch single handed.

 

Oh yeah.... try to avoid beating on it with a big hammer. Not cool for the magnets.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

Mike

Edited April 24, 2012 by Snaggletooth

[Dano]

No, that big gear comes off with it, just like you'll be getting it back from me. It'll pull off of there once the rotors off, I don't need it, but leave the round clutch attached to the rotor because there is a small washer twixt it and the rotor I'll need.

[Snaggletooth]

The big gear, the 72 tooth one inside the rotor seats into the rotor. It is free wheeling and will come off when the rotor is removed. You get a new, different ring gear with the new engage assembly.

[Dano]

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just listen to the "I been there an dun done it" guy tryin' to spout his "lucky" wizardy!!!

[Snaggletooth]

And the voice of knowledge has spoken.....

 

Hi Dan......

[Flyinfool]

Hey Kevin, just put the bike into gear or use a pneumatic air hammer gun to take the bolt loose. Then you'll need to use a bolt-on 3 finger gear puller to take the rotor off. Tie a small rope around the rotor and leave about 3 feet in front of it clear with some padding laying there 'cause it might be overnight when it pops off!! Of course, that's after you've taken all your spare time to get it off and it don't want to come off, then you leave the remover tightened up on there all night and VOILA, the next morning it looks like the gremlins have done the job for ya!

 

Pop off is an understatement.

It can come off with a bang and you better be ready to catch it or be out of the way. It can cover some distance. The rope you tie on should have very little slack so that the flywheel will not go far. But still put something for a soft landing all the way out to 3 or 4 feet just in case the rope does not catch it. If you get to the point where you are not comfortable putting any more pressure on the puller cuz you are sure something is gonna break then you are getting close. There have been a bunch of pullers broken getting these flywheels off. Like Dano said leave it over night with all of that pressure on the puller and it may be off by morning.

 

I don't know if it is something they do at the factory or just that it has been on for so long, but is is never nearly as hard to get the flywheel off the second time.

[Snaggletooth]

Hey now that I think about I never got my "Been there done" that T-shirt.

 

Price I paid for being the test dummy. :rotf:

[kevin5549]

I will tie it off to the frame for sure. Anybody know of a local to Memphis source for the bolts to pull with. I got the puller and the fence post just need bolts now

[Dano]

100mm long by 7mm threads? I might be right but Flyin' will let us know.....

 

Check with Fastenal or look for a bolt or wholesale Tool location type deal to check with

[Flyinfool]

M8 x 1.25P is the thread that I remember. But that was years ago.

Length will depend on which style puller you have.

You will want at least class 10.9 bolts. (metric equal to SAE Grade 8)

Preferably a flange head but they are real hard to find.

If you can not find flanged high strength bolts, then use a high strength washer under the head.

You want to keep the bolts as short as possible.

The 3 bolts should be screwed in as far as they will go. They bottom out quickly, its a shallow hole. They should only be finger tight. If you tighten them with a wrench you already have pressure on the threads before you even start pulling.

 

Make sure that your puller has a button on the end of the jack screw that is bigger than the threaded hole in the end of the crankshaft, or you will be looking for a special 12mm tap to try to fix the threads later like a couple of members had to recently. The type of puller that just has the end of the jack screw pressing on the end of the crank will damage the threads in the crank. You do not want to replace a crank.

 

Once upon a time I had designed and drawn up a puller just for the flywheel on this bike. It was plenty strong to do the job but was going to be expensive to make.

Edited April 24, 2012 by Flyinfool

[GeorgeS]

The factory actually installs a small plastic explosive charge in a hidden compartment, in that clutch assembly.

Too small to actually see, however its very effective ------

[Dragonslayer]

Warning, Warning Warning

 

If you use a Harmonic Balancer puller make sure you use the Beveled shape adapter on the tighten shaft or you will damage the the inside threads on the shaft that the flywheel bolt screws into. The reason I know this is "Been there done that"

 

Then you will need a 12mm x 1.25 pitch tap that you will have to order off the internet to repair the threads.

[kevin5549]

You guys a great . I have the puller with a mushroom like end. From the sound of it I may need a longer fence post. Lol:whistling:

[Dano]

Sounds good guys, we'll get another one screwed up before long!!!!!!

[Keemez]

Here's a visual: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePW96hG2Ojw]Yamaha Vmax Flywheel Removal. - YouTube[/ame]

[Marcarl]

Darn that video makes it look easy,,,,, now how did he get two weeks of work done in just a few seconds.

[Dano]

We didn't think about the BIG hammer trick!!

[pmelah]

Darn that video makes it look easy,,,,, now how did he get two weeks of work done in just a few seconds.

 

MAGIC

[Shorty]

That video DOES make it look easy, However when you're tightening the puller bolt, ya think it can't be on that tight, but it is. Notice my photo with the blanket on the floor... make it a long, thick blanket. It's me holding the real Cresent wrench, that's how we kept the engine from turning over. Oh ya my Starter Clutch was in perfect condition, didn't need replacing, and it had on over a 100,000 miles on it when we checked it.

[Dano]

You got the big hammer laying there too!

[kevin5549]

The guy in the video had wire tied the gear to the rotor to make them come off at the same time. Is this something i should do as well? Going to get the super bolts at lunch today and start pulling on the rotor tonight. Also what do you think about the hammer trick the guy used? Once again i want to thank all of you for the wonderful information and help.

BTW since I have a Gen1 doe that make me one of the cool kids now? I always wanted to be cool.

[Keemez]

I more or less replicated the procedure that the video shows, except my engine was still in frame. Do exactly what he does and it'll work just fine. Don't be afraid to keep tightening on the puller.... it'll take a LOT of torque. I think I whanged the end of the puller twice and mine popped right off just like the video.