Carbon_One Posted April 11, 2012 #26 Posted April 11, 2012 Ok, went to the tech section and read Freebird's 8/22/06 article on 'Adjusting Steering Head Bearings'. I'm going to assume and hope the same technique will apply to the Easy Steer as it did to the stock..... Yes it will be the same. Larry
jonesy Posted April 11, 2012 #27 Posted April 11, 2012 When I did mine, I changed my front tire even though it looked good. Tri-wing said the wear is different on 2 wheels than 3 so you need to a new tire to get rid of the shakes from the old tire. If tighting the steering head don't work, do the tire.
ragtop69gs Posted April 11, 2012 #28 Posted April 11, 2012 Ok, went to the tech section and read Freebird's 8/22/06 article on 'Adjusting Steering Head Bearings'. I'm going to assume and hope the same technique will apply to the Easy Steer as it did to the stock..... Almost the same. The ez steer top tree is a little deeper than the stock one, it needs to be lifted just about off the tubes before you can get the wrench on it.
seabeetom Posted April 12, 2012 Author #29 Posted April 12, 2012 Almost the same. The ez steer top tree is a little deeper than the stock one, it needs to be lifted just about off the tubes before you can get the wrench on it. Ok, Tnx for the heads up. Which brings to mind another question..... If I'm using a drift pin and hammer to tighten up the nuts, how do you check the torque?? Just wondering???
bongobobny Posted April 12, 2012 #30 Posted April 12, 2012 Member Dingy makes a wrench for tightening the nut with a 3/8 drive wrench. I myself am not keen on the drift pin method as you are impacting with that method and it puts a torque spike on every time you impact...
ragtop69gs Posted April 12, 2012 #31 Posted April 12, 2012 Ok, Tnx for the heads up. Which brings to mind another question..... If I'm using a drift pin and hammer to tighten up the nuts, how do you check the torque?? Just wondering??? Using a drift you can only guess at how much torque is being applied. Take the time to do it right.
rstacy Posted April 12, 2012 #32 Posted April 12, 2012 I am seeing numbers from 3ft/pd to 44ft/pd. With a range like that a drift pin and hammer will work as well as anything else! What is the right number?
ragtop69gs Posted April 12, 2012 #33 Posted April 12, 2012 I am seeing numbers from 3ft/pd to 44ft/pd. With a range like that a drift pin and hammer will work as well as anything else! What is the right number? 3# is the stock 2 wheel torque. Hannigan reccommends 38-45 pd/ft for a RSV.
leo3wheel Posted April 12, 2012 #34 Posted April 12, 2012 You would think the trike mechanic would torgue down the bearings when he installs E-Z Steer. After all, they tear down the fork and reassemble it. Must be part of the procedure.
seabeetom Posted April 13, 2012 Author #36 Posted April 13, 2012 10:30 Friday Morning. Am following Freebirds direction for tightening the Steering Head Bearings. Front end is up and there is absolutely no resistance or drag in the steering to prevent or buffer the left/right turning of the front. Problem now is that it is on the lift, wheel off the ground, the top nut is loose, but there is no access to the lock nuts as nothing has moved. I'm guessing that something else somewhere has to be loosened to allow the triple tree to slide on the stem thus exposing the lock nuts?? Any help?? It is a Hannigan with the Hannigan EZsteer. Didn't have a 22mm wrench but an SAE 1 1/16th open end worked to loosen the nut.
wes0778 Posted April 13, 2012 #37 Posted April 13, 2012 Can you see the double lock nuts through the steering lock hole?
seabeetom Posted April 13, 2012 Author #38 Posted April 13, 2012 Can you see the double lock nuts through the steering lock hole? Nope. Ragtop called me and explained that the top plate of the EZsteer triple tree is thicker than stock therefore the nuts will not be exposed requiring the front fairing removal, handlebar removal and pinch allen bolts on inside of triple tree to be loosend so top plate can be tapped upward revealing the lock nuts. Off to the Hrdwre store to get some eyebolts to install in the ceiling so I can suspend the fairing when removed, then the fun begins....
ragtop69gs Posted April 13, 2012 #39 Posted April 13, 2012 The first 4 are from my 01 with the factory top tree the next 3 are the Hannigan ez steer top tree.
seabeetom Posted April 13, 2012 Author #40 Posted April 13, 2012 The first 4 are from my 01 with the factory top tree the next 3 are the Hannigan ez steer top tree. Jay, Got the fairing off. I know you said to take the handlebars off... just the bar or the risers off the triple tree also??
ragtop69gs Posted April 13, 2012 #41 Posted April 13, 2012 Jay, Got the fairing off. I know you said to take the handlebars off... just the bar or the risers off the triple tree also?? No need to take the risers off.
leo3wheel Posted April 13, 2012 #42 Posted April 13, 2012 The first 4 are from my 01 with the factory top tree the next 3 are the Hannigan ez steer top tree. Jay, You should do as I did. The two E-Z Steer set screws rust. Used a Q-Tip to apply Rust Eater, and later, apply glossy black paint. Looks much better.
ragtop69gs Posted April 13, 2012 #43 Posted April 13, 2012 I'm just gonna replace them with polished stainless and be done with it. Thanks for the idea though.
seabeetom Posted April 20, 2012 Author #45 Posted April 20, 2012 How's that wheel wobble now ? Nope, didn't fix it... Got the fairing off & suspended.. Got the handlebars off... Tapped the triple tree plate up till it came off... Was able to get a fairly weak bite with a pair of channel locks, but barely got a budge from the locking nuts. Put it all back together and only had a couple of pieces left over...lol Ordered that wrench from dinges and will tear it back down and try again when I receive it. The trike is rideable, but the steering is too loose at low end speeds. Will see about ordering and installing a new front tire before our trip to Gatlinburg next month... Maybe that will help some.. Tnx again for the help Jay.
ragtop69gs Posted April 21, 2012 #46 Posted April 21, 2012 You need to back off the top locking ring before trying to tighten the lower ring. You'll find it much easier to do with the right tool. When you put the tool on your torque wrench it must be at a 90* angle to the torque wrench handle to get a proper reading. The next time you take it apart it will go faster, don't ask how I know this !
bongobobny Posted April 21, 2012 #47 Posted April 21, 2012 I kind of think the new tire will help out a lot but that's just MHO...
leo3wheel Posted April 21, 2012 #48 Posted April 21, 2012 New front tire, 40 psi in front tire, and 4 psi in front shocks...........
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