Suggestions-Garage repair

[bkuhr]

Discouraging find this weekend. My 24 x 48 garage has a serious problem, at least 1 6x6 post is rotting out. These posts are rough cut true 6in x 6in popular, set about 4' deep in concrete. Then walls were built, then pad poured inside. Not easy to inspect other posts and will work just 1 at a time. Does not appear to be any wood left in concrete pour under 6x6-seems to be just rot and dirt.

 

Looking for suggestions of how to repair.

 

My first thought is to start carving with the chain saw a 4 x 4 recess into the 6x6, auger as deep as possible in the concret pour, then jamb a treated 4 x 4 into the augered concrete pour and recessed 6 x 6. Bolt the 4x4 to the 6x6 and repour concrete to set 4x4 and pack concret up to support bottom of remaining 6x6.

 

Any other ideas?

[etcswjoe]

We had a similar problem, but instead of replacing with timber we went to the scrapyard and picked up a few I beams for scrap cost and dropped them in around the timbers poured concrete then removed the timbers. You may also be able to bolt the beams to the pad.

[67mini67]

Probably best repair would be to remove all wood below surface of concrete and dig large footing hole from outside. (You should do these one at a time) Then poor a 2X2X2 or better block of concrete then place a new 6X6 anchored to concrete above. Then you will not have the rotting issue you have now. Check local code to see how deep your footing should be!

Good Luck

[Brake Pad]

This will work

[bkuhr]

This will work

Looks like good idea, but I do not have easy access to inside of 6x6 for mounting bracket, as floor pad is poured around 6x6's- see pic

 

At this corner I have 2 sides of 6x6 I can work with, but on mid wall posts I will only have 1 side of the 6x6 to work with.

 

We had a similar problem, but instead of replacing with timber we went to the scrapyard and picked up a few I beams for scrap cost and dropped them in around the timbers poured concrete then removed the timbers. You may also be able to bolt the beams to the pad.

 

This sounds promising inserting ibeam into recessed 6x6 like I planned 4x4, have to see what scrap yard has.

 

Good ideas, keep em comming

[Brake Pad]

you will only need tow sides

[friesman]

If you set any wood on the floor, ensure you put some plastic or tarpaper between it and your concrete to stop the transfer of moisture and concrete compounds into the wood.

 

I would be inclined to saw the post off just above the floor if possible and then attach a wooden stud on both sides of the post using long bolts so they clamp everything together. I would attach a heavy metal bracket to the concrete using a lugs and then attach your new studs to those metal angle plates.

 

Brian

[dacheedah]

You shouldn't have concrete in direct contact with wood. The concrete draws moisture and the woods absorbs it. It will over time rot or draw termites or other wood boring insects. You should use plastic sill shield under green lumber or metal when in contact with concrete.

 

I would clean out the hole and pour concrete in it, if you have rot along the bottom consider pouring a rat wall and slip a sill in and bolt it up and bracket the bottom.

 

If the post is solid at the surface, weld up a corner bracket, a couple inches longer and wider than the post with bolt holes. U can put a thin piece of plastic under the metal and bolt into the concrete, then bolt up the post to the bracket.

 

If the post is rotted farther up, clean it out and slip a sonatube, plumb it and pour it.

Edited April 9, 2012 by dacheedah

[FuzzyRSTD]

I would take the advise of pouring a footer up to, or close to, the rotted part and remove it and replace with new treated 6"X6" pieces maybe two foot long or so. Sit them on a 1/4" thick and 7"x7" piece of steel which will sit on top of the concrete.

 

You could also use some cut off 20" - 24" pieces of railroad ties and cut the rot off and stack these under the popular post ends to build the difference back up.

 

I also think there are jacks made that you put under the post after the rot is cut off and then leave them in. But probably a costly thing to do.

 

* I do not know who built this, but never ever use popular wood for post, and for sure if you bury them in the ground. It will rot for sure with in a couple years. This is the softest wood you can find, it just will not last buried in the ground. It is like a sponge and bugs just love it to.

 

http://www.permacolumn.com/?gclid=CI2n05TWpq8CFelgTAodLX6vZA

 

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Foundation-Stabilization-Repair-3587/2008/2/Steel-Post-Jacks-under.htm

Fuzzy

Edited April 9, 2012 by FuzzyRSTD

[CaptainJoe]

I've got a simular problem in my pole garage.

 

will fix by placing concerete blocks stacked 24"high on both sides of beam and resting an oak 2 x 6 on top of both stacks and lag screwing to the 6 x 6 vertical pole.

 

then since the 6 x 6 is supported, I can chain saw off rotten part and take my tractor and pull old rotten 6 x 6 .

 

they have these round cardboard sleeves for pouring concrete 10"? round for posts. slide under post, level with bottom of cut off 6 x 6, then attach a "L" shaped hold down to the 6 x 6 with lag screw(s), pour concrete let sit a few days and you'll be ready to fix another.

 

I don't like the idea of wood "in" concrete either...

[Yammer Dan]

The wood in concrete not good. Some good ideas here. I like the I-Beam idea. Remember steel against treated wood will cause steel to rust. Vapor barrier of some type.

[Pam]

I think I would support the area and then dig out all the old rotten wood and dirt. Make a new beam out of preasure treated 2 X 6 and then put that in the hole . Bolt the new beam to the old one well abouve ground level. Back fill the hole with crushed lime stone. The lime stone will drain the water away from the new beam keeping the beam dry. Whole lot easier than concrete

Edited April 9, 2012 by Pam
spelling

[dacheedah]

Remember to make it strong you do not want too many joints. If you put a short piece of post under the main post , that joint is the weakest, if you have very high winds the shear load will push it off thats where she will give. If you pour up to the post it eliminates that. When they built this they should have dumped concrete in the holes and let her dry, then set green 6x and back filled with stone. The stone allows the water to drain and the lumber to dry out ( avoid dirt also)

The other option is a column splice http://www.theporchpeople.com/7pp-splice.shtml but here the length and bolt placement is also critical and they do make mending plates for this.

 

I would set up some corner braces and some kickers to strengthen the corner and allow you to support it during the repair,and once done I would leave the bracing unless it's in the way of a door or window.

 

http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/MidwestManufacturing/project.do?id=65

[bkuhr]

To settle where blame lies, I will admit it was ME, MESELF, and I. Sure wish I knew back 10 years ago what I know now!

 

Anywhoo, here is status so far....

 

-Cut 6x6 at bottom of pad base board. Rot continued up so cut 6x6 at level with pad. 95% rot free except far inside corner.

-highjack 6x6 up

-installed roof felt tar paper on bottom, then placed metal end cap

-cut recess into 6x6 and installed inverted fencing 'T' post driven into existing pole pour.

t post secured with bar thru 6x6 and rear flange, and screws front flange to 6x6

-found footer form and layed flat on existing pole pour(4' deep)

-expanding foam under pad to restrain concrete

-drilled and installed threaded rod to pull base boad back after pour

 

Now pending,

-to form box for pour

-pour concrete to level with existing pad

-set 6x6 just on new concrete while wet to set 't' post

-angle bracket post to pad

 

Thanks for the many suggestions

[CaptainJoe]

looks like a good fix to me..The T post anchored to both the concrete and the 6 x 6 is the key thing you want to do, that, and the concrete to support the weight of the roof...Good job!