deanmay Posted April 2, 2012 #1 Posted April 2, 2012 I just got my '87 adVenture and I've posted an intro on the intro section. I had a couple tech questions and was invited to repost them here. It is a 1987 Royale, 39k miles. Original paint about C- condition, will probably look B- when cleaned up and waxed. All plastic seems to be there with a little cracking on fairing. Slight tear on seat which is otherwise very comfortable. All systems seem to work, except battery may need changed. Had to jump to start, but massive corrosion on positive post. Seems to run okay on the center stand, a little rough on idle, like carbs unbalanced. Sounds pretty good otherwise. Battery is on charger now to see if it will hold anything. It has a curious probe that goes down into the middle top of the battery with a wire attached and there is what appears to be a diode or resistor in that wire as well. Front tire is almost new and the rear looks good. This bike was ridden, but not much recently. Immediate plans are to get the battery issue resolved, possibly replace the main fuse with a blade fuse, maybe even the glass tube fuse block with blade fuses. I use printed circuit board fuse receptacles and epoxy them together in an array to fit inside the original fuse holder. Then I think I'll put a set of fresh plugs in, make sure I have good voltage to coils, maybe balance the carbs. Do the valves on these need adjusted or are they hydraulic like the 'Wing? Is there a sticky post on trouble spots to take care of for new owners (other than basics of oil, tires, etc)?
Flyinfool Posted April 2, 2012 #2 Posted April 2, 2012 First off, welcome to the asylum...... That extra wire to the center of the battery is a fluid level monitor for the bikes computer. If the electrolyte drops to low You will see a battery icon in the display and get a flashing red light on the dash. If you need to replace the battery and the new battery does not have a hole for the battery probe, there is a simple fix to confuse the computer so it does not keep the warning light on. you simply add a resistor and connect to power. You MUST add the resistor or you will blow out the computer. As far as the rough running, start with a heavy dose of SeaFoam in the gas tank and run it hard. SeaFoam is like a miracle drug for these older bikes that were never intended to have alcohol in the gas tank. Clean the corrosion on the battery terminals and while you are at it check the other ends of the cables to. There was a post not to long ago with a great checklist for buying the 1st gen Ventures. I will go hunt for it unless someone beats me to it.
utadventure Posted April 2, 2012 #3 Posted April 2, 2012 Dean- Sounds like you have a pretty good feel for the Venture and you're already addressing the weak spots. Fuse Holder - the glass holders tend to weaken over time. Changing to the ATC type with solve that. Carb Sync - always a good thing to do! It is always a good thing to run a tank or two of fuel through the bike treated with Sea Foam to help clean the carbs and then re-sync. Valve - they are adjusted by shims (don't know personally, but that's what I've read) Plastic - can be repaired using a number of methods. I use ABS glue on the crack and then support it on the inside with fiberglass. Older paint is hard (impossible) to find but most paint stores do a good job of matching. Battery - the probe you see connects to the CMU and will show an issue with the battery on the display. If you have to replace the battery, you can go to battery without a probe hole (such as an AGM type) and with a resistor you can fix the battery indicator. Welcome to the site and good luck with a great bike!! Dave
Keemez Posted April 2, 2012 #4 Posted April 2, 2012 Spend yourself plenty of time here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=13
deanmay Posted April 2, 2012 Author #5 Posted April 2, 2012 Thanks all! I am getting the battery icon on the dash with the red warning light on, but the fluid level in battery is not low. I can also see a resister already in the circuit near the sensor probe, but it looks factory. Battery seems to be working, but don't know how long it will hold a charge. Took it out for test drive. It really does not have the power it should, so something is up. Fork oil all over the front calipers means the brakes are not working too well. But it felt very comfortable to ride. On other bikes I've had really good success changing fork oil with synthetic ATF. I've seen it seal up some pretty bad leakers.
deanmay Posted April 2, 2012 Author #6 Posted April 2, 2012 Also, is there a download available for the owner's manual? Thx Dean
utadventure Posted April 2, 2012 #7 Posted April 2, 2012 Also, is there a download available for the owner's manual? Thx Dean Try this link: http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm
Trader Posted April 2, 2012 #8 Posted April 2, 2012 Skydoc, a member on this site, sells the fuse upgrade ....a probably anything else you might need! He comes highly recommended...not only for his service and price...but also the fact that he doesn't seem to mind phone calls from technically challenged wrench wanna-bes!!!!! I've got a lot of bits and pieces from Earl...both new and used and been very happy with all. And like I said....he (and many others on this site) are more than willing to help us get thru those challanging situations ...you know .... like how to pick up a big bike like ours when it's fallen over Don't ask how I know!
deanmay Posted April 2, 2012 Author #9 Posted April 2, 2012 Try this link: http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm Thx, but those are service manuals. I'm looking for the owner's manual to learn how to use all the bike features. Finding a lot more cracks in the fairing. Looks like maybe PO hit a deer or something. The black cowl sheild that goes around the gages is broken into two pieces. Looks like they should be fused together.
Keemez Posted April 2, 2012 #10 Posted April 2, 2012 Thx, but those are service manuals. I'm looking for the owner's manual to learn how to use all the bike features. I don't mind lending you mine (93 model- but content will be almost identical), but I'd like it back somewhere down the road and prefer that it doesn't get all dogeared or water damaged or anything of the sort. Wing me a PM with your mailing address and I'll zing it out.
bongobobny Posted April 2, 2012 #11 Posted April 2, 2012 Buy a can of seafoam and put it in your gas tank and drive it like you stole it! Also have a set of plugs as the seafoam will remove a lot of accumulated gunk from the carbs and the upper cylinder area and foul up the plugs in mo time! Yes, it will smoke big time as well. As far as the battery probe, it is probably all corroded. Just remove it and sand it with some fine sandpaper starting with some 260 grit and finish up with 400 grit. If the battery needs replacing, then buy a DEKA AGM from Skydoc17, he is a distributer and gives us ventureriders a great price. To eliminate the probe you take a 2K to 4Kohm resistor and tie it to the battery plus terminal. It then tricks the computer by sensing about 6 volts, which is about the voltage at the probe when it is working. Do NOT hook it up directly to the battery plus as it will blow out the circuit for battery sense. Very important, check the date code on the tires!!! Even if it looks brand new, for your own safety, do not use tires more than 6 years old! This is recommended by the tire manufacturers for your own good! The xdate code is a 4 digit number on one side of the tire inside an oval shaped section. The first two digits are the week of the year, and the last two are the year of manufacture. The number 1308 would mean it was manufactured on the thirteenth week of the year 2008. If you find a three digit number immediately replace it as it is older than 12 years old!!! As mentioned, Earl, Skydoc, also sells aq replacement fuse kit for 1st gens. He also has some other stuff he sells that you may consider at a later date. Welcome aboard!!!!!
bkuhr Posted April 2, 2012 #12 Posted April 2, 2012 It has a curious probe that goes down into the middle top of the battery with a wire attached and there is what appears to be a diode or resistor in that wire as well. OE should not have resistor or diode in the probe wire, but what you are likely seeing is bullet style disconnect under faded clear tube. As stated will need to clean end of probe hopefully to clear current battery icon. Otherwise try 2k-4k ohm resistor as stated in place of probe tied to battery plus. If still does not clear icon, then maybe someone blew the cms for you, there are options to try repair.
deanmay Posted April 3, 2012 Author #13 Posted April 3, 2012 OE should not have resistor or diode in the probe wire, but what you are likely seeing is bullet style disconnect under faded clear tube. You can see in the picture the factory looking resistor encased in clear plastic. In the upper left of the picture is the bullet connector.
Dealio Posted April 3, 2012 #14 Posted April 3, 2012 Techspark Venture Royale Studio is a program I got off of Ebay for the bike. seems to show the details. for $10.00
Dragonslayer Posted April 3, 2012 #15 Posted April 3, 2012 Thx, but those are service manuals. I'm looking for the owner's manual to learn how to use all the bike features. Finding a lot more cracks in the fairing. Looks like maybe PO hit a deer or something. The black cowl sheild that goes around the gages is broken into two pieces. Looks like they should be fused together.Two words.........Gorilla Glue
KIC Posted April 3, 2012 #16 Posted April 3, 2012 I have been successful in welding the cracks and broken tabs on mine. its easy and cheap. When you get ready to do your front forks..let's talk. just finished my 89 and ready to do them on my 87. As said, the battery by-pass is very simple. Good luck. Bill
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