cfrasure Posted March 31, 2012 #1 Posted March 31, 2012 wondering if someone can help! is there anyway to bypass the class air system on my 1986 yamaha venture royale? I bought it a week ago and it isnt working. e-4 message can hear the pump clicking. took the controller out checked for soldier breaks. Im thinking this is gonna be a lot of work! so can I bypass the system so I can ride? thanks for any help!
friesman Posted March 31, 2012 #2 Posted March 31, 2012 One of the guys I know cut the lines at the pump and added Schrader valves , mounted them under his trunk so all he has to do is hook up a hand pump and adjust his air. (just like a new g2 bike...) I would think you should avoid an air hose as you might blow out your fork seals with the high pressure air. Brian
Marcarl Posted March 31, 2012 #3 Posted March 31, 2012 It would take just as long to solder the joints as to add the valves, and for me, even if it took a lot longer to solder, that's the way I would go. It's just one of the reasons I'm not interested in a 2nd gen,,,, besides the fact that they a soooo much slower. But that's only my opinion. By the way, the clicking you hear are the solenoids, the pump makes a motor type sound.
Flyinfool Posted March 31, 2012 #4 Posted March 31, 2012 Even though you can not see the cracked solder joints they can still be there. As long as you have the board out and looking at it just go ahead and add a tiny amount of fresh solder (use non acid flux) to all of the joints.
reddevilmedic Posted March 31, 2012 #6 Posted March 31, 2012 yep. i did it with my 83. these are the parts i used.
OldGazer Posted March 31, 2012 #7 Posted March 31, 2012 I had similar issues with my '91. Being a former Navy Miniature/Micro Miniature Repair Inspector/Instructor(NavSea 2M), reflowing the solder connections was a snap and was well worth the effort. My CLASS system works fine..... What you want to reflow are the solder joints where the connector is soldered to the board. Work in a "criss-cross" pattern, and remove the iron as soon as the solder melts and reflows. If you can find liquid flux, apply a little to each joint before you add any heat. The flux will remove surface oxidation and give you a nice shiny joint. Clean with some Isoprophyl to remove excess flux. As an added tip, before you plug the cable(s) back in, apply some dielectric grease to the connector pins. The grease will keep moisture out and prevent corrosion.
GaryZ Posted April 1, 2012 #8 Posted April 1, 2012 My VR was already cut up when I got it. The front and rear air lines were tied together on one air valve! I separated the lines and added a pressure gauge and valve for each line. A $17 air pump from Academy (12V) connects to a power port on my dash when I need to add air.
Snaggletooth Posted April 1, 2012 #9 Posted April 1, 2012 My VR was already cut up when I got it. The front and rear air lines were tied together on one air valve! I separated the lines and added a pressure gauge and valve for each line. A $17 air pump from Academy (12V) connects to a power port on my dash when I need to add air. Gary, just wanna ask, have you moved your rear trunk back? Or did you just move it back for the pic? I like the mounting spot, but I don't think I'll have room with the trunk where is is. I'm getting ready to tee off my CLASS \air lines and install the valves so I can reach them from the outside of the bike. With the Tee's I can still use the pressure gauge in the CLASS display and in case I EVER can another CLASS controler to work right I than will have a back up sytem.
GaryZ Posted April 2, 2012 #10 Posted April 2, 2012 Gary, just wanna ask, have you moved your rear trunk back? Or did you just move it back for the pic? I like the mounting spot, but I don't think I'll have room with the trunk where is is. I did not move the trunk or anything. I removed the CLASS air compressor and associated parts to make room under the black plastic and fabricated a couple of crude brackets to hold the gauges in place.
friesman Posted April 2, 2012 #11 Posted April 2, 2012 Snag, I think the 85 trunk is a bit farther back than the 83 or 84 as we have the bigger trunk on a different mounting rack. there's a tool pouch that sits between the seat and the trunk. ( a One year deal) that isnt in Garys picture. Brian
bags529 Posted June 10, 2012 #12 Posted June 10, 2012 yep. i did it with my 83. these are the parts i used. Mike, Where did you pick up your parts used in the class bypass. Was it online deal or were you able to pick up local.
motorcycle_1300 Posted June 10, 2012 #13 Posted June 10, 2012 I am getting ready to try the solder connection fix, but am greatfull for the pictures of the bypass fix. If I have to resort to the bypass fix, what Kind of pressure are you using? Thanks Al
Adavidson56304 Posted September 26, 2012 #14 Posted September 26, 2012 I had just about given up on my class and went and bought shraeder valves and was about to cut the lines and put them on, then found this thread. I had gone through the wiring, compressor, solenoids all with no luck. I did not have an error message but the solenoids were not clicking. I tried the solder fix and it worked! Thank you all. This saved me some time and money.
bongobobny Posted September 26, 2012 #15 Posted September 26, 2012 Front, 0 - 21 lbs depending on how stiff and high you want the front end, normally 10 - 15 lb range. Rear, 0 - 70 lbs, normally 45 - 60 depending on whether you are riding 1 up or 2 up.
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