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I have just bought an 08 with 2000 miles.....have been reading threads about synthetics....still confused...what viscosity should be used? i live in Ontario Can which has temps all over the map last week 70 deg this week 40's.....yamah sells semi synth.and afull synth.....have always used yamalube 20w40/50 in 04 vstar for 76000 kms no problems .....so with this its a decision after this has been broken in...I have a friend with 92 goldwing he uses shell diesel oil from wallyworld....

any thoughts please

Edited by Atoolnut
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Think he's asking Viscosity as much as brand here.

 

Mobil 1 the 10-40 version (This is the motorcycle specific kind 4T racing). Recently switched to the Shell Rotella T in the Venture, however. I believe that's, probably, the stuff that your Wing friend uses.

Edited by gibvel
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Thanks for info..is mobil 1 the Vtwin spec ?...shell rotella T is a full synth?....how many miles should I put on Dino oil before switching to synth? I should stick with recomended change intervals ? oil filter .. I have been using K&N 303 in the Vstar (had a relocation kit) and have used this on the first change after I bought bike..is this filter as good as I think?

sorry for asking many questions but after 7 years with the vstar knew just about all about it...so the RSV is a new learning curve

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Thanks for info..is mobil 1 the Vtwin spec ?...shell rotella T is a full synth?....how many miles should I put on Dino oil before switching to synth? I should stick with recomended change intervals ? oil filter .. I have been using K&N 303 in the Vstar (had a relocation kit) and have used this on the first change after I bought bike..is this filter as good as I think?

sorry for asking many questions but after 7 years with the vstar knew just about all about it...so the RSV is a new learning curve

 

No, not the VTwin oil. Although some use that when it gets very hot out. I don't bother but then it never gets really, really hot here. Some have also said that they fear the 20-50 is too thick for the V-4. Remember this is a water cooled engine and it's also a higher reving engine.

 

Yes, Rotella T6 is a full synthetic oil.

 

Some say wait 5,000 or 6,000 miles before switching from Dino to Synth. Some have said they started running synth in the bike the day they brought it home.

 

I use a Purolator Pure One filter. It's the one that is a longer filter (just fits in the slot between the filter threads and the regulator but it does fit). I'll look for the number. I've never used the K&N but others have and it is a good filter as well. Okay, the number is PL14610 for the longer one and PL14612 for the shorter filter. Probably cost you less than the K&N and is just as good in my opinion. Others use the Wal-Mart SuperTech 7317 as well. Check out this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100&highlight=purolator

Just don't ride the V-4 like the V-twin. These engines love to be reved out. Hit the limiter and figure out where to shift once or twice. You should be able to make almost 30 in first before the limiter kicks in. If you don't rev them a little more than the V-twin, and downshift to pass, when you're loping along in a higher gear, then the bike will shutter and shake a bit. You'll get the hang!

Edited by gibvel
Add the "6" to T6
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From '99 to '09, my '99 RSV was only fed Yamalube semi-synth oil. I now use 20W50 full synth, usually Mobile 1 and have just under 80K miles on the ticker. No issues at any temp. Filter varies by what I find at a good price in the stores, but rarely ever a Fram. Didn't have a good experience with them. Mobile 1 makes a good filter. I now usually don't change the oil but every 4,000 miles or so, and have started putting a little SeaFoam in the crankcase as well, especially right before an oil change. Really cleans the oil sump out! I also tried using Motorkote in the oil a few times, but did not notice any performance or oil life difference, so I stopped.

 

Good luck with the RSV!

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No, not the VTwin oil. Although some use that when it gets very hot out. I don't bother but then it never gets really, really hot here. Some have also said that they fear the 20-50 is too thick for the V-4. Remember this is a water cooled engine and it's also a higher reving engine.

 

Yes, Rotella T is a full synthetic oil.

 

Some say wait 5,000 or 6,000 miles before switching from Dino to Synth. Some have said they started running synth in the bike the day they brought it home.

 

 

I have always switched to synth at first oil change on all my bikes and cars, including my MX racing bikes.

 

I doubt if 20w-50 will hurt the V-4 but it really should have 10w-40. In general V-twin oil is designed for air cooled engines and isn't really necessary in water cooled v-twins.

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I've been using Mobil 1 15w-50 Fully Synthetic in both my bikes for years with no ill effects. Probably gonna have to go to the Rotella T6 next though. Haven't seen the Mobil 1 on the shelf in quite a while. I think they must've quit making it.

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I use Amsoil full synthetic 10w-40 motorcycle oil. Oil is generally a personal preference just make sure that what ever you purchase meets or exceeds the factory Yamaha recomendations for warranty purposes. Keep your reciepts!

 

In reference to your statement about temperature variations. Thankfully we are dealing with a water cooled engine. We don't have to worry about temperature change nearly as much as the air-cooled engines. Our machines our temp controlled by a thermastat and a radiator fan so once they reach operating temperature they aren't affected by changes in outside temperature nearly as much as an air-cooled machine.

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I put over 300,00 miles in just over 4 years on my Honda using the Rotella T6 5w40 and the ONLY tools to EVER TOUCH the engine were ones to change oil,filters and spark plugs. Still ran like the day I bought it when I sold it.

When I got my RSV, I changed it to the Rotella and only time/miles will tell but I expect the same results.

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  • 4 weeks later...
From '99 to '09, my '99 RSV was only fed Yamalube semi-synth oil. I now use 20W50 full synth, usually Mobile 1 and have just under 80K miles on the ticker. No issues at any temp. Filter varies by what I find at a good price in the stores, but rarely ever a Fram. Didn't have a good experience with them. Mobile 1 makes a good filter. I now usually don't change the oil but every 4,000 miles or so, and have started putting a little SeaFoam in the crankcase as well, especially right before an oil change. Really cleans the oil sump out! I also tried using Motorkote in the oil a few times, but did not notice any performance or oil life difference, so I stopped.

 

Good luck with the RSV!

 

I'm about to do an oil change on the '06 RSV at 15,000 miles, would you recommend some seafoam in the crankcase before I drain it? How much seafoam and how long do I leave it in before I drain it? I've got Mobil 1 in there and just over 4K miles, starting to shift a little hard once in a while.

Thanks!

Semper Fi Marine!

BigDawg

ALR

VFW

DAV

PGR

USMC 1975-1999

MSgt

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I use Amsoil MCF 10W-40 in the Yamaha V4. There are multiple threads dedicated to what kind of oil to use and what brands are the best. Bottom line is use an oil that meets and or exceeds the recommendations of Yamaha as specified in the owners manual. You do not have to use YamaLube to satisfy warranty requirements. Keep your reciepts! Using 10W-40 in a water cooled application because a water cooled engine doesn't have the same temperature variances that an air cooled engine has. The thermostat is controlling an ideal temperature for the most part so you aren't going to see any major variations of temperature on a properly functioning water cooled engine. An air cooled engine however is cooled by the air. If it is really hot out then the engine is going to run really hot. IF your doing 60 MPH down the highway the engine is going to run cooler than if your riding in stop and go traffic. Variations in heat will cause an oil to breakdown faster. That is why there are "V-twin" specific oils; and that is why they are generally a higher viscosity recommendation. Enough said.

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I also use, the mobil racing 4t 10w-40 in both the kawasaki 900 v-twin (water cooled), and.first change on my "new" 85 VR. The 900 has 20k miles with no valve shim adjustment needed upon inspection. I like how the clutch and transmission feel with this oil also. FWIW, JMHO, YMMV. :-)

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In my Kawi 900 I used nothing but Mobil 1 in either the 10w40 (winter) or 20w50 summer time here in FL. With the RSV I have only changed the oil once and I actually went with a 50/50 of the Mobil 1 20w50 and the other the Rotella T-6. I had a couple quarts is why. From all the threads I read dealing with oils for these bikes price wise the Rotella T-6 is the best bang for the buck in my book. With the shortened intervals in changes (compaired to my 900) its almost twice as often so the $10 qt of the mobil 1 I didnt feel I was getting my money's worth out of. The T-6 is about $17 a gallon (a tick over $4qt for full syn is a bargin) in Wally world. I am also running the "long" gold purolator filter, more area filtering hopefully means cleaner oil. I wont even use a fram on my lawn mower after what I have read about them in tests.

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