Latest on High Output Stator replacement

[Dragonslayer]

In for a penny in for a pound.

 

On this years round of 1st gen bike upgrades so far:

 

New tires and rubber front and back By local Two Brothers tires Lawrenceville, Ga. Specializing in MC Tires.

 

Programable TCI upgrade By Dingy

 

New Starter clutch by Dano.

 

So in prep for new Starter Clutch upgrade I'm noticing second stock stator is 1/2 crispy.

 

Evidently, Time to do the high output stator Upgrade.

 

 

So my question is what is the latest and greatest word on a high output Stator upgrade options for a 1987 MK2 XVZ1300 VR.

 

Might as well do it now while I'm into it this far :mo money:and I have a loaner bike, and convertible to drive around until the 1st gen gets back on the road.

 

Bob

[reddevilmedic]

just installed that and r/r on mine. works great!

[Snaggletooth]

Not the latest addition to my bike but I did the upgrade stator about 3, 4 years ago using the one from Rick at Buckeye Performance. Never an issue and I had the case open a year ago for look see and the stator looked new. Not even a dark spot. Nice compared to the OEM I took out. 2/3's black and nasty. I added the Shindengen Mosfet R/R this last year and they are the perfect combo.

 

I know, what it is, Ricks Electronics sells them cheaper but there have been some reliabilty issues I beleive. Squidly will probably post on that.

 

Now skydoc_17 is selling something you might want to look into also.

 

Mike

[KenP]

Not the latest addition to my bike but I did the upgrade stator about 3, 4 years ago using the one from Rick at Buckeye Performance. Never an issue and I had the case open a year ago for look see and the stator looked new. Not even a dark spot. Nice compared to the OEM I took out. 2/3's black and nasty. I added the Shindengen Mosfet R/R this last year and they are the perfect combo.

 

I know, what it is, Ricks Electronics sells them cheaper but there have been some reliabilty issues I beleive. Squidly will probably post on that.

 

Now skydoc_17 is selling something you might want to look into also.

 

Mike

 

I did the same thing + a Deka AGM battery, larger battery cables, VMax 4 brush starter, and battery bug to monitor. Haven't had a problem since......Ken

[Flyinfool]

I have Skydocs kit on order. I should be seeing it soon.

[frankd]

Mike,

 

In a previous message, you wrote "Not the latest addition to my bike but I did the upgrade stator about 3, 4 years ago using the one from Rick at Buckeye Performance. Never an issue and I had the case open a year ago for look see and the stator looked new. Not even a dark spot. Nice compared to the OEM I took out. 2/3's black and nasty. I added the Shindengen Mosfet R/R this last year and they are the perfect combo."

 

The darkness and crud on the top stator coils is burnt oil, and the fact that you don't have this on your stator made me wonder......what oil do you use in your bike?? The reason I ask is that either your stator isn't making as much heat as the the others, or the oil you use is better at not carbonizing.

 

Unless the stator doesn't get as hot with the Shindengen regulator (but it looks like you had the stock regulator on it for a couple of years).

 

Frank D.

Edited March 28, 2012 by frankd
Thought of something else!!!

[Flyinfool]

Actually running a stock RR on a HO stator means that the stator will never have to work for a living.

Because the stator has more out put capability than the RR can use the RR will only allow so much power so the stator will never get to use its max capability. Hence running nice and cool.

[frankd]

Jeff,

 

Actually, the stock regulator is a 'shunt' regulator, and how it regulates is by dissapating any extra power coming from the stator as heat, or you could just say that it shorts the extra to ground so the voltage doesn't get too high. The rotor is a permanent magnet, so the output of the stator is dependant on the engine speed. With an ohmeter, you can measure the 6 diodes in the stock regulator, so that means the the regulator will rectify the AC from the stator and send it to the battery, until the voltage gets up to about 14.5, and then it starts shunting the extra power to ground to prevent the voltage from going too high. This creates heat in the regulator.

 

Now I'm wondering about these new regulators....everything I've been able to read says they run real cool. I'm wondering if they aren't series regulators, or only allow enough energy to flow from the stator to maintain 14.5 volts. If they are series regulators, I'd think the stator would run a lot cooler because there would be less stator current, and therefore, less heat created in the coils. If the oil on the stator doesn't get so hot it 'cokes', the stator would last a LOT longer.

[Flyinfool]

Jeff,

 

Actually, the stock regulator is a 'shunt' regulator, and how it regulates is by dissapating any extra power coming from the stator as heat, or you could just say that it shorts the extra to ground so the voltage doesn't get too high. The rotor is a permanent magnet, so the output of the stator is dependant on the engine speed. With an ohmeter, you can measure the 6 diodes in the stock regulator, so that means the the regulator will rectify the AC from the stator and send it to the battery, until the voltage gets up to about 14.5, and then it starts shunting the extra power to ground to prevent the voltage from going too high. This creates heat in the regulator.

 

Now I'm wondering about these new regulators....everything I've been able to read says they run real cool. I'm wondering if they aren't series regulators, or only allow enough energy to flow from the stator to maintain 14.5 volts. If they are series regulators, I'd think the stator would run a lot cooler because there would be less stator current, and therefore, less heat created in the coils. If the oil on the stator doesn't get so hot it 'cokes', the stator would last a LOT longer.

 

You are right, I forgot about these being Linear regulators where Amps in equals Amps out. But I was also under the impression that they had internal protection to to limit total power.

It would be really nice if these new regulators were switching regulators so that power in equals power out. Switching regulators typically run very cool and very efficient, but can leave some ripple on the output. Dang electronics, you never get something for nothing, everything is a compromise.

 

While you can partially check the diodes in the RR, by checking the 3 inputs with an ohm meter using both polarities. It is my understanding that you can identify if a diode has failed short but not one that has failed open. This is because the output side of the rectifier is internal to the RR so It can not be probed.

 

My new style HO stator and RR should be here Thursday. I'll do some looking to check it out best I can.

 

There is nothing wrong with the stator and RR that I am removing other than I need more available power to add more toys, gadgets, lights and doo-dads.

[frankd]

You CAN tell if a diode is open.....I had a regulator fail on my 83, and when I checked the diodes, I could 'see' the open diode on the ohmeter. I also measured it again today. It's developed a weak charging system. The stator measured good (no grounds and all 3 lead to lead resistance equal @.5 ohm. When I checked the regualtor diodes, all 6 measure good, forward and reverse. Now, I usually use an analog ohmeter, but I'd imagine that a digital meter in the diode check position would also see an open diode.

 

When you get your new regulator, I'd be interested to know if you can detect diodes by measuring between the stator leads and the RED and BLACK output leads. You'd have to use an analog ohmeter or a digital with a diode check position. Also, I've got an after market regulator here that appears to be just like the Yammie regulator electricially, but it's got 2 red leads coming out. Normally you connect both of these leads to the positive battery terminal, but today when I was testing it, I could detect the diodes on one of the red leads, but the other appeared to be open. I'd guess that one red leads is the diode bridge positive lead, and the other is the shunt regulator.

[dingy]

Attached is a PDF on how to check the regulator/rectifier for diode operation.

 

Gary

[Snaggletooth]

Mike,

 

In a previous message, you wrote "Not the latest addition to my bike but I did the upgrade stator about 3, 4 years ago using the one from Rick at Buckeye Performance. Never an issue and I had the case open a year ago for look see and the stator looked new. Not even a dark spot. Nice compared to the OEM I took out. 2/3's black and nasty. I added the Shindengen Mosfet R/R this last year and they are the perfect combo."

 

The darkness and crud on the top stator coils is burnt oil, and the fact that you don't have this on your stator made me wonder......what oil do you use in your bike?? The reason I ask is that either your stator isn't making as much heat as the the others, or the oil you use is better at not carbonizing.

 

Unless the stator doesn't get as hot with the Shindengen regulator (but it looks like you had the stock regulator on it for a couple of years).

 

Frank D.

 

Hey Frank,

 

What oil was being used when I bought, who knows. I assume the damage to the stator was probably already started at that time as the charging system was always weak.

 

But from the beginning I used Super Tech 15-40 (WW) and Super Tech 20-50 in the really hot months. I was changing oil every 3,000 miles the first couple years watching what was coming out in the oil. Looked pretty good so I pushed the changes (oil & filter) to 5,000 after that.

 

The bike already had the stator cooling kit in it when I first opened it up and found the stator burned and black.

 

But at the last check of the new upgrade stator it looked like this. Just like new. So whatever reason, running cooler or a difference in oil, I'm gonna keep doing what I'm doing. Seems to be working.

 

Even with the failure of the aftermarket R/R, which was caused by my own stupidity, there did not seem to be any harm to the stator. Got lucky.

 

Mike

[Flyinfool]

Attached is a PDF on how to check the regulator/rectifier for diode operation.

 

Gary

 

Dang, You just taught an old dog another new trick.