steamer Posted March 21, 2012 #1 Posted March 21, 2012 I know I seen it here somewhere? someone HELP! please.
RedRider Posted March 21, 2012 #3 Posted March 21, 2012 OH boy. You are in for some fun. First, get a role of masking tape and a Sharpie. Most of the connections are either already marked or with unique connector shapes. However, it will make your life easier if you mark everything with big letters. Remove outer fairing and windscreen (assume you have already done that). Remove the headlight and mating bracket. Start marking and disconnecting all the wiring. Pay attention to the routing of the cables. Include another masking tape label on a cable with routing notes if you feel the need. Remove the center frame with the audio control. There should be 2 nuts to remove to take the inner faring off at this point. This was done by memory so a couple of steps may be omitted/added. I recall the first time I just started taking it apart and labeling everything. It went back together fine. RR PS. Good time to get any fork work done. Also, steering head bearings (repack, replace, and/or reset).
flb_78 Posted March 21, 2012 #4 Posted March 21, 2012 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15402 This might help.
steamer Posted March 21, 2012 Author #5 Posted March 21, 2012 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15402 This might help. I like you first idea better. I was planning on replacing the fork seal and install progressive springs but after getting in side and seeing all those wires and stuff, maybe I'll just put it back together and take it to the dealer.
steamer Posted March 21, 2012 Author #6 Posted March 21, 2012 Never mind, brain farts over. Sometimes you just have to walk away for a while. found the two bolts I didn't see right in front of me the first 30 times I looked.
djh3 Posted March 21, 2012 #7 Posted March 21, 2012 I have to agree. When I did the lowering of my forks I had the front part off and coulnd for the life of me figure out how you could get enough clearence to work in there. I pryed and wiggled, finnaly walked away and got a glass of ice tea. When I came back it was like a "wheres Waldo" thing. I saw the nuts that had been eluding me clear as day. Boy did I feel silly.
seabeetom Posted August 31, 2015 #8 Posted August 31, 2015 I know I seen it here somewhere? someone HELP! please. Steamer, did u ever find info to get the inner fairing off? I'm trying to loosen mine up to get room to install risers.
YamahaLarry Posted September 1, 2015 #9 Posted September 1, 2015 I know I seen it here somewhere? someone HELP! please. Just removed mine a few weeks ago for repainting and it took me about 2-1/2 hours or so to removed it BLINDLY. I can't remember the exact steps I took, but removed as many components as I could, and once I got the nuts removed that hold the headlight/electronics frame to the forks, the rest was a matter of pulling carefully and guiding all the wires thru the square cutout in the faring. It is MUCH more difficult to reassemble. That took me about 6 hours 1 evening and then about an hour to finish up the next day. I would get so far, realize that I left out a step, and then had to disassemble and start over. SUGGESTION: Make notes of the steps you take to remove, and reverse that to put it back together. As for the wires, take good pictures as to how they are routed and tied inside the faring. That will help a lot in getting it all tidy. Be prepared. It is a job. Also, I didn't mark the wiring. There are no plugs that can plug up wrong except for the individual wires for the running lights/flashers, and they are color coded. If you don't have a Service Manual, it would be helpful to download one. I wish I had examined it prior to wasting a lot of time in figuring it all out on the fly.
YamahaLarry Posted September 1, 2015 #10 Posted September 1, 2015 Forgot to mention this in my other post. DO NOT put all the bolts in 1 bag labeled inner faring. Took me a while to sort all that out and I am still not convinced I got it all right. But it is together, no squeaking and tight. I would use multiple bags like "dash side screws", "windshield", "cassette", "speakers", etc.
videoarizona Posted September 1, 2015 #11 Posted September 1, 2015 Steamer, did u ever find info to get the inner fairing off? I'm trying to loosen mine up to get room to install risers. Tom, you still having issues getting your inner fairing loose?
seabeetom Posted September 4, 2015 #13 Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks for the input folks, 'preciate ya'll. Got er done.. was able to loosen the inner fairing enough to install the risers, when I snugged it back down, the fairing was down tight on the risers. used a foam beer coozie (no panic, had another one handy so as not to interfere with my beer drinking), cut out a couple of squares of the foam rubber and wedged them up between the risers and fairing. Hopefully that keeps the fairing safe from cracking. Understood about the use of Flanders vice risers but at the time risers were the play of the day. Yep, lost some turning radius due to the risers hitting the ignition key casing. Lesson learned for those who have the Hannigan easy-steer,, don't go the riser extension route as I did, the fairing does not sit the same as on the stock RSV. Do the Flanders with all the cable extensions. !!! Leave Our Flag Alone !!!
DblTrbl Posted September 5, 2015 #14 Posted September 5, 2015 IT HELPS to take PHOTOS :-) and BEER....don't forget the BEER
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