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Posted

OK the project got started yesterday. Yesterday I took off my floorboard and brake pedal and removed the old master cylinder. Today I did a little planning and thinking and fabricating. I decided to use the stock brake pushrod and I am fabricating a mounting plate for the master cylinder. I am tapping the side mounting holes on the new master cylinder so I can bolt it to the plate. The plate is going to be bolted to the brake pedal equalizer mount. I am slotting the holes so that the master can be adjusted up and down a little, and adjusted closer and further away from the brake pedal. I did a lot of hacking away on the piece that is the brake pedal mount so that the fabricated bracket will work out. I am trying to avoid drilling holes into the frame if at all possible. I have been taking pictures but probably not enough for a step by step illustration. I will make a template of the mounting plate once it is finished, I'm using 1/8 inch aluminum. My next obstacle is coming up with a nice SS brake line to go from the master back to the T block that will be SAE on the Master cylinder end and metric on the T block end. More to follow and pictures...

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Posted

OK some primary pictures. First, what is replacing the stock one. Second, replacing the aftermarket push rod with the OEM one. Third, modified brake pedal assembly, before drilling a new hole. One of the holes was chopped off and the 9 degree bracing was also cut off. Next., after the new 2nd hole was added. Last, the mockup of how the plate is going to work out. I plan on rolling tyhe edges of the plate inwards to prevent side play...

Posted

OK Gary, so you know, the stock RSV has a 1/2 inch bore master cylinder. Hannigan, in their infinite wisdom, knew that there would never be enough volume of fluid to power stock Honda Accord calipers. They use Accord transaxles bolted up to a Ford Thunderbird rear differential. Sooo, instead of installing a larger master cylinder instead they fabricated brackets that bolt where the calipers go and mounted tiny Ducatti calipers and had special smaller diameter rotors made up. They work, but are sort of like 1st gen MK1 front brakes, they leave as lot to be desired. They also have a tendency to develop an obnoxious squeal after a while. A couple of years ago, Larry, Carbon1 modified his on his Triwing hack so that he could use Crown Victoria calipers as they use a Ford rear end as well but without the independent rear suspension. He turned me on to the source of the bigger master cylinders but he just drilled his frame and bolted the master cylinder to it. I chose not to drill my frame but rather am McGuiver'ing my own system to mount the master cylinder. I just got my bracket cut to size and rolled the edges over tonight. All that is left is to drill the holes and tap the mounting holes for both the master cylinder and the brake pedal linkage to secure it to the bracket. After that is the issue with the stock brake line being metric and the new master cylinder being SAE.

 

Once the master cylinder is in and functional then I will be upgrading the calipers and rotors. I'm planning on using EBC slotted and cross drilled rotors and still have to decide which calipers I want to use and what pads...

Posted

I, of all people hear can sympathize with you on brake upgrades.

 

On my 4th set of brakes on the front of the 83.

 

Stock set, dual pot

MKII 4 pots

2001 4 pot R1's

Now getting close with the 6 pot 2011 R1's. Just got the second rapid prototype bracket today & the piece of 6061 aluminum plate arrived from McMaster to machine the working brackets from this afternoon.

 

This doesn't include the set of 6 pot YFZ's that I have that never made it on the bike, I got the 2011 R1's shortly after I got them.

 

And that's only the front.

 

Rears were:

 

Stock set, dual pot

MKII 4 pot

1986 VMax dual pot.

 

If I can get a bracket designed & built I think I will take one of the R1 calipers and attach it in place of the under slung VMax caliper on rear now.

 

Have fun, the Mod Monkey bites again.

 

Gary

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey Jay! Well, the paint on the MC is drying, the adapter bracket is all shined up and looks like a chrome piece, and I just sent out the brake line to have it magically converted into a SS jacketed line about 1 1/2' shorter and SAE threads on the end that screws into the MC. Next step is to find out what year Honda I need to get parts for. I am now thinking I will have to go to a junk yard for the caliper brackets...

Posted

Looking good.

 

According to Hannigan, The brake knuckles are 84-87 Honda CRX so rotors, calipers & bracket should all work. You may have a hard time finding parts that old, most of that vintage stuff was crushed during the Cash for Cars fiasco :doh: Your best bet will be to have the scrap yard run a locator on what you need.

Posted

but the newer stainless steel rotors and hard pads are awesome and stop the trike very well now don't even have to use the front brake anymore :happy65:I am very happy with this new set up now.

Jeff

Posted
but the newer stainless steel rotors and hard pads are awesome and stop the trike very well now don't even have to use the front brake anymore :happy65:I am very happy with this new set up now.

Jeff

 

Having a Hannigan trike built next week, will it come with the newer stainless steel rotors and hard pads?

Can't wait to get it, Bob

Posted

IT SURE WILL BOB,,, your going to love the whole new ride and never look back

The hardest part is , it takes a a good 15 months to get that GRIN off your face :big-grin-emoticon:

Jeff

Posted
but the newer stainless steel rotors and hard pads are awesome and stop the trike very well now don't even have to use the front brake anymore :happy65:I am very happy with this new set up now.

Jeff

OK I'll agree with that one based on your opinion! I'm trying for something akin to power brakes and am going slotted and cross drilled EBC rotors, haven't decided on the pads yet.

 

Jay, thanks for doing the legwork on the year and model Honda. I'm thinking it was mostly gas hogs that got crushed with the great rebate debacle...

Posted

Yay!! Today I found a set of caliper brackets from an '85 CRX! I'm amazed there are any left in this area as there is not a huge demand for parts for them and most have been crushed because there is no profit in them! Of course the price was a bit high, $80 which is more than I paid for a set of brand new rotors and bendix pads. I got both for $54 shipped. Now all I need is calipers...

Posted

Dang!! Did as little online research and found out JC Whitney has remanufactured calipers with hardware AND brackets!! Sure, they cost a little more than just the calipers but not to the tune of what I ,paid for the mounts! Could have saved about $20 if I would have researched first...

Posted
Dang!! Did as little online research and found out JC Whitney has remanufactured calipers with hardware AND brackets!! Sure, they cost a little more than just the calipers but not to the tune of what I ,paid for the mounts! Could have saved about $20 if I would have researched first...

 

:doh: :mo money:

Posted

Oh well, just bought calipers so now, except the brake line from skydoc, I have everything. Total investment around $275 plus whetever the brake line is going to cost...

Posted
but the newer stainless steel rotors and hard pads are awesome and stop the trike very well now don't even have to use the front brake anymore :happy65:I am very happy with this new set up now.

Jeff

 

Jeff, I'm still in Florida Keys mode, but where did you get the stainless steel rotors and hard pads? Thanks!

Posted
Jeff, I'm still in Florida Keys mode, but where did you get the stainless steel rotors and hard pads? Thanks!

 

They are from Hannigan. I had one of the trikes built between Dec 09 and Jan 10 that were shipped with the wrong pads which caused excessive wear on the rotors. The original rotors were cast but pads for stainless rotors were used causing deep scoring of the rotors. Hannigan replaced them under warranty with the setup both Jeff and I have now. This just goes to show what kind of customer support and care you get when you buy a Hannigan. I'm the second owner of this trike and the original owner wasn't aware of the factory mis-matched parts.

Posted
They are from Hannigan. I had one of the trikes built between Dec 09 and Jan 10 that were shipped with the wrong pads which caused excessive wear on the rotors. The original rotors were cast but pads for stainless rotors were used causing deep scoring of the rotors. Hannigan replaced them under warranty with the setup both Jeff and I have now. This just goes to show what kind of customer support and care you get when you buy a Hannigan. I'm the second owner of this trike and the original owner wasn't aware of the factory mis-matched parts.

 

Our rotors are cast, and rear brakes squeal quite often. There is no scoring of the rotors. The squeal has been there since our trike was very young. Hannigan dealer insinuated that I glazed the rear brakes, and I would have to pay to have them replaced. I certainly would not pay them for the same type of brake material. Are your SS rotors and hard pads quiet? Would be a pain to replace our brakes after only 10,000 miles. :crying:

Posted (edited)

No squeal from them yet, don't expect them too. When was your trike built? There were only about 30 trikes affected and they were built within about a 45 day window form 12/09 to 01/10

 

You might try a different pad compound. Talk with your local Ducati dealer, those rear pads fit several Ducati models and are available in a few different pad materials from EBC and others. The original pads are brembo. I recall the EBC pads as being FA47. Be sure to lightly sand the rotors to remove any glazing when switching pads.

Edited by ragtop69gs
missing info
Posted

I have a set of EBC I just bought paid $56.00 for them.

put about 5 miles on them if that and then made the switch

would sell for $35.00 .

 

Jeff

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