Don't want to stir anything up but

[star4772]

wan't to go to syn oil in my 08 RSTD. I used ames oil in my RSV should I stick to the same it seem to done good on RSV. What weight for ames syn oil for summer. I can't remember what I used before. Any help?

 

Joe

[warriorhoneybee]

i think i use amzoil full syn 10 40 i believe. i'll get off my lazy butt in a few and go check.

[star4772]

i think i use amzoil full syn 10 40 i believe. i'll get off my lazy butt in a few and go check.

 

Ok thank's

[KIC]

Since we are waiting for the answer, and you are in the stirring up mode...let's talk tires, guns, religion and politics.... :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot:

 

Oh yea...did I tell how much faster the 1st Gens are ...????

[warriorhoneybee]

your bad KIC. LOL IT WAS AMSOIL FULL SYN 10 W 40 . HERES A PIC OF IT.

Edited March 14, 2012 by warrior/honeybee
forgot picture

[Flyinfool]

your bad KIC. LOL IT WAS AMSOIL FULL SYN 10 W 40 . HERES A PIC OF IT.

 

What pic.............??????????

[warriorhoneybee]

hey look again, it's magic. LOL

[Carbon_One]

Have used Amsoil syn 10-40 in the past but currently using Mobil 1 mc oil Racing 4T syn.

Mainly because it's easier to find and slightly cheaper to boot.

Larry

[playboy]

Since we are waiting for the answer, and you are in the stirring up mode...let's talk tires, guns, religion and politics.... :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot:

 

Oh yea...did I tell how much faster the 1st Gens are ...????

 

 

Think he was born with a chrome stirring stick

[Midrsv]

I believe during this month Advance Auto parts has Mobil 1 4T on sale for $7.99/qt which is $3 off. I bought 12 quarts and plan to buy more.

 

Dennis

[Carbon_One]

I believe during this month Advance Auto parts has Mobil 1 4T on sale for $7.99/qt which is $3 off. I bought 12 quarts and plan to buy more.

 

Dennis

Thanks for the heads up

[pickinfred]

Think he was born with a chrome stirring stick

 

If he had a 2nd Gen it would be a Gold stirring stick!

[star4772]

Since we are waiting for the answer, and you are in the stirring up mode...let's talk tires, guns, religion and politics.... :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot:

 

Oh yea...did I tell how much faster the 1st Gens are ...????

 

BAD BAD BAD :no-no-no::rotf:

[hunter 1500]

I thought Ames went out of business.

[star4772]

I thought Ames went out of business.

 

No way not that I have herd. Who know's :confused24:

[a1bummer]

Have any of you guys had any clutch issues after switching from conventional to synthetic? The reason I ask is that I was talking about switching to synthetic in my 84 to the guy at the stealership. He advised me not to because the friction disks are saturated with conventional already, and that switching to synthetic could cause the clutch to grab and slip kind of irratically when taking off. He said he has seen this before and when switched back to conventional, the issue went away. Anybody heard of this? He also said that if I ever changed the disks to go for it then.

 

Bill

[twigg]

Switching to synthetic ....

 

Well it's you money, and your bike so no worries from me.

 

But to those who choose to use a non-specified oil, even one that exceeds the specs recommended, I just wonder why? What is the upside?

[leo3wheel]

Not recommending this, but telling you what I did. Was using Yamalube 10W40 dino oil. Put SeaFoam in my crankcase, drove a few miles and did an oil and filter change with same Yamalube. Oil was black. Drove another 15 miles and changed oil and filter again. Oil was black again. This time used Shell Rotella SYN 5W40. Bike seems to run fine. Have ridden locally and never noticed any clutch slip. Oil is staying an amber color. Going to Lancaster, PA this weekend and Key West, FL the following week. Will let you know.

Edited March 14, 2012 by leo3wheel

[twigg]

Not recommending this, but telling you what I did. Was using Yamalube 10W40 dino oil. Put SeaFoam in my crankcase, drove a few miles and did an oil and filter change with same Yamalube. Oil was black. Drove another 15 miles and changed oil and filter again. Oil was black again. This time used Shell Rotella SYN 5W40. Bike seems to run fine. Have ridden locally and never noticed any clutch slip. Oil is staying an amber color. Going to Lancaster, PA this weekend and Key West, FL the following week. Will let you know.

 

We always used kerosene mixed with oil for a good flushing.

 

Don't run it long, don't let it get too hot and drain thoroughly.

 

I would think Seafoam would work too, and adding some Marvel Mystery Oil (ATF) is popular ...

 

Kerosene cleans quicker and it cheaper but you have to be more careful

[Freebird]

I've said it many times but will repeat it again. I am a loyal fan of Mobil 1. I use it in everything I own. For my RSV, it is Mobil 1 Racing 4T and I'll not use anything else. Whether or not to use synthetic is a personal choice but very little research will uncover plenty of evidence as to the benefits. A good dino oil will do just fine and you will get many thousands of trouble free miles with regular oil and filter changes just as you will with Synthetic. For me though, the benefits of synthetic are worth the bit of extra cost. I won't get into all the technical reasons here because they can be found all over the Internet.

 

Tomorrow I will pick up 9 quarts of 0W-40W for my wife's Chrysler Crossfire,, 5 quarts of 5W-20 for the 2011 Kia Sorrento and 4 quarts of Racing 4T for my RSV. All Mobil 1 thank you.

[twigg]

I've said it many times but will repeat it again. I am a loyal fan of Mobil 1. I use it in everything I own. For my RSV, it is Mobil 1 Racing 4T and I'll not use anything else. Whether or not to use synthetic is a personal choice but very little research will uncover plenty of evidence as to the benefits. A good dino oil will do just fine and you will get many thousands of trouble free miles with regular oil and filter changes just as you will with Synthetic. For me though, the benefits of synthetic are worth the bit of extra cost. I won't get into all the technical reasons here because they can be found all over the Internet.

 

Tomorrow I will pick up 9 quarts of 0W-40W for my wife's Chrysler Crossfire,, 5 quarts of 5W-20 for the 2011 Kia Sorrento and 4 quarts of Racing 4T for my RSV. All Mobil 1 thank you.

 

I get it ... In modern engines, especially high revving ones ... I just wonder about our large capacity, low tune slower revving motors ....

 

It's a significant extra cost ... peace of mind maybe?

 

In my VFR I used nothing but Mobil 1

[leo3wheel]

I've said it many times but will repeat it again. I am a loyal fan of Mobil 1. I use it in everything I own. For my RSV, it is Mobil 1 Racing 4T and I'll not use anything else. Whether or not to use synthetic is a personal choice but very little research will uncover plenty of evidence as to the benefits. A good dino oil will do just fine and you will get many thousands of trouble free miles with regular oil and filter changes just as you will with Synthetic. For me though, the benefits of synthetic are worth the bit of extra cost. I won't get into all the technical reasons here because they can be found all over the Internet.

 

Tomorrow I will pick up 9 quarts of 0W-40W for my wife's Chrysler Crossfire,, 5 quarts of 5W-20 for the 2011 Kia Sorrento and 4 quarts of Racing 4T for my RSV. All Mobil 1 thank you.

 

Use Mobil 1 in our car and truck. Will consider Mobil 1 Racing 4T when I return from Florida. Will stay with synthetic now that I made the change.

[Freebird]

Well all I can do is relate my own experiences. This may not be the case for everybody but it is cold hard fact for me.

 

When I had my '88 Venture Royale, I first used YamaLube. I was living in Texas at the time and it was during a summer of many 100F PLUS days. I found that when riding on those very hot days that the shifting got very clunky and it was often hard to find neutral. This would happen after as few as 500 to 1000 miles on a fresh oil change. I tried a couple of different oils before finally just going with Mobil 1 and it made a tremendous difference. I experienced much smoother shifting. I found that this improvement lasted through the full life of the oil.

 

When I bought my '99 RSV in April of 1999, the deal included the dealer performing the first service. That included oil change, carb sync, etc. I was getting ready to leave on an extended ride so it was done a bit early at around 800 miles. They used YamaLube for that oil change. It was again a hot Texas summer when I left on that trip and again at no more than 1,000 miles I started experiencing the clunky shifting and etc. I would not wait to get that oil out of my bike. At about 2,000 miles and still on that trip I changed it to Mobil 1 and have never looked back. I am sold on it.

 

I absolutely believe that a good synthetic oil does not break down nearly as quickly as Dino oil. I think this is especially true in higher temperatures.

[LilBeaver]

Use Mobil 1 in our car and truck. Will consider Mobil 1 Racing 4T when I return from Florida. Will stay with synthetic now that I made the change.

 

I'm not sure if I have misinterpreted your statement or not but just incase you did not know, the Mobil 1 'Racing 4T' is the 10w-40 'Motorcycle specific' oil that IS fully synthetic.

 

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/oils/mobil1_racing_4t_10w-40.aspx#

 

[09RSTD]

My vote is to use Amsoil motorycle 10w-40. That being said, I think that as long as you use an oil with the same requirements as the factory specifications you will be safe. The thing that I personally feel is the most important is the interval at wich you change your oil and the type/quality of oil filter you use. Make sure that you are are using a high quality air filter and that you are servicing it at the proper specified maintenance intervals if not sooner. What you suck into your engine via air intake can cantaminate your oil. Also make sure that if you have done any alteration to your bike from stock form that your air/fuel ratio is set to perfection so that you aren't introducing any unwanted fuel into your crankcase due to unburnt fuel.

With all of that being said I use Amsoil for one reason. I don't put more than 3,000 miles on my bike during the 3 to 4 months of winter weather. With conventional oil I would be inclined to change it after three months. I know that Amsoil is good to go after 3 or 4 months of minimal riding as long as my bike has been stored properly during that time.