Tired.. Dome the Flanders and all brake and throttle lines today.

[FuzzyRSTD]

Well I ordered the SS brake lines and Flanders bars from http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ and installed all today. Thanks to all the help here and especially my brother Chris. We worked on this all day, from about 7 AM until 10 PM tonight. We did take a few brakes and ate three good meals today that my wonderful wife cooked up.

 

We did all the front and rear brake lines,clutch line, and throttle upgrade. Everything has new Dot 4 fluid and no air. I removed the tank, so I decided that before we put the tank back on, it would be good to go ahead and install the new plugs (NGK DPRea8-9). So we did after removing the dog bones. The plugs gap at 30-35. I put them on 32. The plugs torque at 13 lb each also.

 

So for those inclined to do the SS line upgrade. Would I recommend this as a do it yourself job ? Yes, for those somewhat mechanically inclined. You should plan on a good all day to do it all. I still have to button up a few things, and put all the tools back up. The SS lines will adjust somewhat at the connections and there is a tool included to do this. I would recommend you use plastic garbage bags to cover everything up so the brake fluid does not harm your paint.

 

Fuzzy

Edited March 11, 2012 by FuzzyRSTD

[Phoneman1981]

Thanks for the info. I hope to do that exact mod to my RSTD in the future.

[FuzzyRSTD]

Thanks for the info. I hope to do that exact mod to my RSTD in the future.

 

I think there is a time interval that the manufacture recommends to replace the brake/clutch lines Phoneman, but can not remember the miles. But I figured whiles doing this Flanders bar upgrade and I ended up with enough monies from the tax return this year, I would just go ahead and get-R-done. My bike has 35,000 on it and the clutch fluid was kinda dark. So that was another factor.

 

You know as easy as the clutch fluid was, I am going to start changing it at least once a year. I used the small aquarium clear hose from wall-mart to go over the bleeders. Just put you a good set of needle nose pliers in the end and twist and put some pressure out as you do, works very well.

 

Good idea to take left side bag off as well before you start. Take tank off also, and might as well have a new set of plugs to go in. If you have never done your antifreeze, then I would recommend that to at the same time. You could just take off the crowling and you already have the tank off. I think Goose has a good write up on that. I might have posted about that some where to when I did mine, not that bad a job. Make sure you get the correct antifreeze.

 

Fuzzy

[RSTDdog]

I removed the tank, so I decided that before we put the tank back on, it would be good to go ahead and install the new plugs (NGK DPRea8-9). So we did after removing the dog bones.

Fuzzy

 

Be sure and use a torque wrench on the dog bone bolts and tighten them up to spec (46 foot lbs). I just replaced my plugs. They were changed at dealership by the previous owner. Dog bone bolts broke loose pretty easy with a 3/8 ratchet. Don't think they were at 46 foot pounds. I torqued them down to spec after the plug change and things seem smoother. Not sure if its because the plugs, dog bone torque or both. My plugs still looked pretty good with 10,000 miles on them.

 

Let us know how the brakes feel with those new stainless lines. Good work. I need to do this at some point too. I have changed the clutch and brake fluid before, I do that when it changes color from clear. My OE brake lines are going on 6 years old. OM says to replace them every 4 years.

 

RSTDdog

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Fuzzy,

 

Congrats on your successful project. Sounds like you had a busy day.

 

Your brake lines were not as old as the ones on my '84 but I gotta say when I changed mine out to SS I was worried when I finished up and tried my front brake lever. I thought it was stuck.

 

Firm ...er ...solid I guess would be the right word. I whole new feel to the brakes.

 

So no practicing your controled skids.

 

Mike

[FuzzyRSTD]

Be sure and use a torque wrench on the dog bone bolts and tighten them up to spec (46 foot lbs). I just replaced my plugs. They were changed at dealership by the previous owner. Dog bone bolts broke loose pretty easy with a 3/8 ratchet. Don't think they were at 46 foot pounds. I torqued them down to spec after the plug change and things seem smoother. Not sure if its because the plugs, dog bone torque or both. My plugs still looked pretty good with 10,000 miles on them.

 

Let us know how the brakes feel with those new stainless lines. Good work. I need to do this at some point too. I have changed the clutch and brake fluid before, I do that when it changes color from clear. My OE brake lines are going on 6 years old. OM says to replace them every 4 years.

 

RSTDdog

 

Thanks RSTDdog, I did torque them at 30 lb. I could not find the correct torque on these in the Freebird torque sheets. Are you sure about the torque ? I thought I put them back very close to the way they came off though. Felt really tight at 30 lb., I was afraid of damaging the aluminum jugs. I really do not know what the dog bones are called on the torque sheets.

 

It will be a while RSTDdog to get any more information from me. I still can not ride until I have left shoulder surgery next week Friday. Then 3 - 6 months recovery, soooooo. I am really sick at all the bikes on the road today and I can not go and ride until this is over.

 

Fuzzy:thumbsup2:

[FuzzyRSTD]

Hey Fuzzy,

 

Congrats on your successful project. Sounds like you had a busy day.

 

Your brake lines were not as old as the ones on my '84 but I gotta say when I changed mine out to SS I was worried when I finished up and tried my front brake lever. I thought it was stuck.

 

Firm ...er ...solid I guess would be the right word. I whole new feel to the brakes.

 

So no practicing your controled skids.

 

Mike

 

Thanks Mike. I did not really see a big difference in the bike sitting there and applying pressure, but I do want to say they seemed more solid. Take care my friends.

 

James

[RSTDdog]

I see in the other thread you got the torque spec confirmed. The only reason I knew it by heart is because I just did it. I saw it discussed in some older post I was going through on spark plugs and someone had the page attached. Alot of the torque specs aren't listed in the table but are found in the step by step breakdown in the service manual. The upper engine stay ( dog bone ) torque is in the engine section under removal and reassembly, but I think you found that already too.

 

Bummer on the shoulder surgery. Good Luck and all the best with that. Be VERY diligent on your PT after surgery. That will be key for a full recovery. Be sure and put plenty of stabil in the fuel although I'm sure there are plenty of folks nearby that will help burn the fuel out of it for you and keep it fresh.....

 

RSTDdog

[FuzzyRSTD]

Done this at 15,400 mile. Thought I would share some pictures that might help someone else later. I also did the spark plug change while doing this. The plugs torque on 13 flb and the Dogbones or Upper Engine Supports torque as stated on 46 flb. The plugs gap between 30 - 35 thousands. The brake/clutch fluid is Dot-4 fluid. One small can did all mine with a lot bleeding on the front brakes. However it was just barely enough, so buy yourself two small cans. You know as easy as the clutch fluid was, I am going to start changing it at least once a year. I used the small aquarium clear hose from wall-mart to go over the bleeders. Just put you a good set of needle nose pliers in the end and twist and put some pressure out as you do it, works very well.

 

BEFORE

 

I pulled the tank off when it came time to do the clutch and brake lines. Should have just pulled it off before hand.

 

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[ATTACH]64999[/ATTACH]

 

After

 

I have the bar end adapters ordered from http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Only $20.00 more. I still have to put those on when they come in the mail. Also the extra foam grips that go over the originals to.

 

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[ATTACH]65003[/ATTACH]

 

Fuzzy

[hunter 1500]

I changed mine in 2010 and I like it much better now. No more upper back pain. Not sure how long it took but I would guess around 6 hrs total.

[FuzzyRSTD]

I changed mine in 2010 and I like it much better now. No more upper back pain. Not sure how long it took but I would guess around 6 hrs total.

 

Thank you. Wow that was quick. Did you also change out all the front brake/rear brake/clutch lines to SS ? I changed my spark plugs to at the same time. And did you have any trouble with air in the front brake lines after wards, or did you have to bleed one more time after riding ? I will not be able to ride for a while, so just wondering about that. Surgery this Friday, left shoulder Labram tear.

 

Fuzzy

[FuzzyRSTD]

Well I received my end adapters from **Buckeye Sports** today. I got them on and ** I am really pleased with all the outcome. A good bunch of people to deal with there, highly recommend anyone doing this to give Rick a call A+ grade for them.

 

Also a tip to those doing this. Try your best to have the bike sitting straight up on center stand or a stand and the air will be a whole lot easier to get out of the front system, rather than leaning on the side stand. Then 24 - 48 hrs later, bleed everything one more time. Have a great day all. Shoulder surgery tomorrow, Woooo Hooooo , ya ugggg. No riding now and no riding for quite some time. I will be aggravating all you for a while.

 

Fuzzy :thumbsup2:

[hunter 1500]

Thank you. Wow that was quick. Did you also change out all the front brake/rear brake/clutch lines to SS ? I changed my spark plugs to at the same time. And did you have any trouble with air in the front brake lines after wards, or did you have to bleed one more time after riding ? I will not be able to ride for a while, so just wondering about that. Surgery this Friday, left shoulder Labram tear.

 

Fuzzy

Yes I got the same kit from Buckeye. I have one of those vaccum pumps that makes it a breeze to get the air out of the lines. One of the hardest parts was finding the bleed for the clutch. I came on here and got the answer I needed. The guy that helped me went to MMI but is pounding nails now. He knew pretty much what he was doing but that little bleed nipple was hard to find.

[hunter 1500]

I did the brake fluid change again last year as it was getting dark already. Not sure if it is because I tow a trailer a lot.