ediddy Posted October 23, 2006 Share #1 Posted October 23, 2006 I ordered the CyclePump that is supposed to be the best air pump on the market. It cost me $100.00 plus the shipping. Saturday morning I checked my tires before a trip and I had 35 lbs in the front tire. I got out my cycle pump and was going to increase it to 40 lbs. When I turned on the pump the pressure went from 35 lbs down to 30 lbs. I was checking to make sure all the connections were good when the pump quit working. I plugged it into my car cigarette lighter and it worked fine, so I knew I had blown the auxiliary dc terminal fuse. The fuse for that terminal is a 5A. I replaced it with another 5A and when I turned on the pump it immediately blew that fuse. I got the instructions and read them and it says the cyclepump requires a 10-15A outlet. Would it hurt anythig if I changed the 5A fuse to a 10A? Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPG Posted October 23, 2006 Share #2 Posted October 23, 2006 I would not advise doing that. If you look inside the fairing at the back of the cig. style plug you will see that that wire is extremely small and not designed to carry much amperage. If you go to a 10 amp fuse you may melt that wire and risk a fire. That plug is designed to use for items like cell phone chargers etc. low draw items. I cut the cig. stlye plug off of my air pump and put on a connector that matches my elec. vests. If I need air I just plug the pump into the vest connector, connect to my tire then turn on the switch that operates my vest. The vest plug is hooked directly to my battery through a fused relay. Works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediddy Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share #3 Posted October 23, 2006 Hey RPG, Thanks for the reply. Is the wiring you hooked to your battery where you can get to it without removing the seat? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPG Posted October 23, 2006 Share #4 Posted October 23, 2006 Yes, I have a Utopia backrest and I have the wire run up the bracket and into the pocket on the back of it. If I want to plug in a vest or use the pump I just unzip the pouch and take out the connector to plug it in to either one. Before I had the backrest I used my trailer wire plug to do the same thing, I had a trailer plug and ground clip on my compressor at that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venturejockey Posted October 24, 2006 Share #5 Posted October 24, 2006 I have a Battery Tender the conector is kept hidden out of site until I need it. I bought a cigarette socket connector with a connector that matches the Battery Tender. That way I can plug the adaptor up to the battery and then plug the pump into the adaptor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juggler Posted October 24, 2006 Share #6 Posted October 24, 2006 I have a Battery Tender the conector is kept hidden out of site until I need it. I bought a cigarette socket connector with a connector that matches the Battery Tender. That way I can plug the adaptor up to the battery and then plug the pump into the adaptor. As long as you have an inline fuse that is the best solution yet. You MUST have a fuse to protect the battery and other circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediddy Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share #7 Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks to all of you that replied. I called CyclePump yesterday and the lady I spoke with listened to my problem and said she would relay the info to the owner, David Petersen. Here is the email I received from him. Eddie-I got a message about your fuse problem on your Yamaha. You'll need at least a 10amp fuse to run the CyclePump. This won't hurt your bike or your wiring system because the CyclePump won't draw enough juice to harm the wires. The fuse acts as a thermal switch to shut down the circuit in the event there's an overload. The fuse also protects the wires and prevents them from overheating. In the thousands of bikes we've outfitted there's never been a problem with the larger fuse. What do all of you think? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPG Posted October 24, 2006 Share #8 Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks to all of you that replied. I called CyclePump yesterday and the lady I spoke with listened to my problem and said she would relay the info to the owner, David Petersen. Here is the email I received from him. Eddie-I got a message about your fuse problem on your Yamaha. You'll need at least a 10amp fuse to run the CyclePump. This won't hurt your bike or your wiring system because the CyclePump won't draw enough juice to harm the wires. The fuse acts as a thermal switch to shut down the circuit in the event there's an overload. The fuse also protects the wires and prevents them from overheating. In the thousands of bikes we've outfitted there's never been a problem with the larger fuse. What do all of you think? Thanks. When Yamaha wired the acc. plug, the specs for that circuit stated that the circuit would be limited to 5A and so the appropiate wire for 5A was used. Now if you fuse that circuit to 10a, although the fuse is able to take the 10a that doesn't guarentee that the wire is able. The suggestion about the battery tender connection is good advice. I would follow that advise and fuse it to 10a. I think Cycle Pump are assuming that you are connecting to a 16 guage wired circuit and you are not. Its possibly 20 or 22 guage, I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venturejockey Posted October 24, 2006 Share #9 Posted October 24, 2006 Thats is correct I split the two wires and added an inline 10 amp fuse to one of them. I bought the parts at walmart in the automotive electronics/wiring section. Multipal accessories can be added on this way (Not at the same time of course). Now I can plug "and play". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted October 24, 2006 Share #10 Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks to all of you that replied. I called CyclePump yesterday and the lady I spoke with listened to my problem and said she would relay the info to the owner, David Petersen. Here is the email I received from him. Eddie-I got a message about your fuse problem on your Yamaha. You'll need at least a 10amp fuse to run the CyclePump. This won't hurt your bike or your wiring system because the CyclePump won't draw enough juice to harm the wires. The fuse acts as a thermal switch to shut down the circuit in the event there's an overload. The fuse also protects the wires and prevents them from overheating. In the thousands of bikes we've outfitted there's never been a problem with the larger fuse. What do all of you think? Thanks. don't trust the reply without checking the wire size protected by this fuse it should be at least 16 guage for a 10 amp fuse and 14 gauge for a 15 amp fuse. My suggestion would be to connect a 2 wire flat connecter similar to that of the battery tender they can be bought at any parts store come as a mateing pair often used for trailer wiring.connect directly to yuor battery with an inline fuse and adapt the other half to your pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leland Posted October 25, 2006 Share #11 Posted October 25, 2006 Powerlet (www.Powerlet.net) offers numerous "BMW" style plugs. They come prewired with an inline fuse for connecting to the battery. I just mounted a couple in the plastic panel above the left hand passenger's floorboard on my '06 RSTD. I also got the Battery Tender Jr. adapter which is very convenient. This winter I plan on mounting another one (and a volt meter) on the speedometer, using the auxilary DC power supply to power the coil of a relay. I think that the "BMW" style plug is superior over a cigarette lighter style plug and it is also smaller. They also offer a cigarette lighter adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Whlsrollin Posted October 25, 2006 Share #12 Posted October 25, 2006 Is that 5 amp fuse for the extra outlet behind the faring inside the faring or is with the rest of the fuses. Mine is not working now. I just had it replace a few weeks ago. I was thinking it just might be the fuse this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Katydid Posted October 25, 2006 Share #13 Posted October 25, 2006 I have been running passing lamps on a 10 amp fuse for the fairing receptacle of my 06 RSV for 9,600 miles. Haven't had a moments trouble. The lights pull 7-8 amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPG Posted October 25, 2006 Share #14 Posted October 25, 2006 I have been running passing lamps on a 10 amp fuse for the fairing receptacle of my 06 RSV for 9,600 miles. Haven't had a moments trouble. The lights pull 7-8 amps. Years ago we used to put a penny behind our blown glass fuses in the house while we were waiting to get a new one, it was a common practice. The fact that we and many others did this didn't make the practice a good or safe idea. More than a few houses ended up in ashes because of forgotten pennies. The same holds true to your advice, your getting away with it for now and that is fine for you and you may stay lucky for years, who knows, but its still bad advice. You should take the time to wire your passing lights correctly, there is no negative to doing it properly. AWG 22 wire, I believe is safe to 7A DC. If you do melt your system, it would be a good idea to replace that 10A fuse with a 5A before asking for any warranty assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted October 25, 2006 Share #15 Posted October 25, 2006 Thanks to all of you that replied. I called CyclePump yesterday and the lady I spoke with listened to my problem and said she would relay the info to the owner, David Petersen. Here is the email I received from him. Eddie-I got a message about your fuse problem on your Yamaha. You'll need at least a 10amp fuse to run the CyclePump. This won't hurt your bike or your wiring system because the CyclePump won't draw enough juice to harm the wires. The fuse acts as a thermal switch to shut down the circuit in the event there's an overload. The fuse also protects the wires and prevents them from overheating. In the thousands of bikes we've outfitted there's never been a problem with the larger fuse. What do all of you think? Thanks. This advice is unbelievably irresponsible! Many folks here have already explained why. If you still have any doubts about our answers, just do a little research on the internet on minimum wire gauge for a 10 amp circuit draw. Anyone who decides to replace a circuit protection device with one larger than designed puts their equipment, and possibly the lives of themselves and others at risk. If you significantly over-draw that circuit, the wire insulation WILL melt. Wires that are overloaded increase the heat they generate the longer they are under the overload, so you might get away with adding 5 lbs of air to a tire, but not 20. There really isn't any way to know how long you can get away with that. Since all of the wires are out of sight, you won't even know it is happening until it either starts a fire or the wires short out and finally blow the larger fuse. By then, the damage will already be done. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediddy Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share #16 Posted October 25, 2006 Hey 2Whlsrollin, The outlet is the one in the front in the fairing. The fuse for this outlet is located behind cowling A, which is, if your sitting on your bike it is the cowling on the right. The cruise control, carburetor heater, auxiliary DC terminal, auxiliary DC jack, audio system and spare fuse are located there. Getting cowling bolt A back in is a pain. I had to leave it out. I have tried and tried to get this bolt back in but just can't do it. If anyone knows how do this please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted October 25, 2006 Share #17 Posted October 25, 2006 This advice is unbelievably irresponsible! Many folks here have already explained why. If you still have any doubts about our answers, just do a little research on the internet on minimum wire gauge for a 10 amp circuit draw. Anyone who decides to replace a circuit protection device with one larger than designed puts their equipment, and possibly the lives of themselves and others at risk. If you significantly over-draw that circuit, the wire insulation WILL melt. Wires that are overloaded increase the heat they generate the longer they are under the overload, so you might get away with adding 5 lbs of air to a tire, but not 20. There really isn't any way to know how long you can get away with that. Since all of the wires are out of sight, you won't even know it is happening until it either starts a fire or the wires short out and finally blow the larger fuse. By then, the damage will already be done. Goose As a truck technician with 35 years experiance I cant tell you how many trucks over the years I have seen burn to the ground due to truckers using under size wire and over size fuses when adding extra lights to thier rigs. play it safe 16 ga. wire for 10 amps, 14 ga. wire for 15 amps and 12 ga. wire for 20 amps. its worth the safty margin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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