$1,400.00 and still don't run

[KIC]

eeded.

 

OR......

 

Get yourself 2nd Gen:sign killer dude:

 

If I read his thread correctly, he is trying to solve his issue and have a great, fast and classy bike...not add to his problems and lower his lifestyle...

 

 

[Yammer Dan]

If I read his thread correctly, he is trying to solve his issue and have a great, fast and classy bike...not add to his problems and lower his lifestyle...

 

 

 

 

But at least the Hardley crowd will wave at you til they get a close look!!:whistling::rotfl::rotfl:

[twigg]

The good news is that there is very little wrong with your bike.

 

Start at the beginning because guessing at the problem and altering things hoping it will work is a recipe for frustration. All the symptoms count, including the fact that it ran fine when it was put away.

 

It still runs fine after half throttle or so and if the rear pipe headers are not glowing red then it isn't too lean (which more or less rules out intake air leaks).

 

Start with what is most likely and eliminate that first.

 

Get it running and use a timing light to check for a regular spark on each plug in the lower revs (we know it's okay higher up). Use the same light to check the advance, but it's not a major concern because it runs better when spinning fast.

 

That just leaves gas.

 

If it runs well on the main jet, then the problem is with the needles, the diaphragms and slides, or the pilot circuit. When you have eliminated everything else, what is left is the problem, however unlikely it seems

 

Good luck with it and don't use that shop again.

[warriorhoneybee]

shame on you KIC!!! you must have went to the same school as yammer dan. LOL

[KIC]

shame on you KIC!!! you must have went to the same school as yammer dan. LOL

 

Yea.. Graduated from the University of 1st Gens, Majored in Speed and Style. Guilty as charged.

[Rocket]

Yea.. Graduated from the University of 1st Gens, Majored in Speed and Style. Guilty as charged.

 

Had good Tutors, as well...........

[warriorhoneybee]

Yea.. Graduated from the University of 1st Gens, Majored in Speed and Style. Guilty as charged.

good one. i guess i'll just stay in the back and keep an eye on you and yammer dan. lol

[Yammer Dan]

good one. i guess i'll just stay in the back and keep an eye on you and yammer dan. lol

 

Your eyes that good???

[buddy]

Before you tear into your carbs again go to Auto-Zone and get the $25-30.00 temp gun works the same as the high dollar Snap-On ones. start the motor and watch your reading on your exhaust system you will know after a min or so which one is plugged by the low temp on the exhaust. I did this to my Valkyrie when I bought bad gas when I was coming back from a trip found #1-#3 pilot jets were plugged up

make sure you do this at idle only not at high rpm as the secondary jets will kick in

Let us know hows things go?

Buddy

[mbrood]

My recommendation after any carb work when it "still" doesn't seem to want to perform, pull the plugs and check what's happening in those cylinders!! White is too rilean (too much air, air leaks) and a real problem waiting to break something... black and sooty, she's firing but still too rich, black and wet... she's barely firing... nice tan=perfect mixture.

 

You might also check the resitance from inside each plug cap holder to the ignition fuse... it should be about 23k Ohms... 10k for the resistor in the plug holder and 13K for the coil... anything mpore and there's corrosion... probably on on end of the plug wire.

[bdlight4]

More great info. Wanted to work on it of the weekend due to nice weather. However, I was told the honey due list takes priority. Now, it looks like next weekend.

[KIC]

 

You might also check the resistance from inside each plug cap holder to the ignition fuse... it should be about 23k Ohms... 10k for the resistor in the plug holder and 13K for the coil... anything more and there's corrosion... probably on on end of the plug wire.

 

Where exactly is the ignition fuse you are talking about ? Does the key need to be on ? I would like to check mine, but could really use a little more info, thanks..

[mbrood]

The ignition fuse is the glass fuse in the black holder above the battery.

 

All resistance checks are made with no electricity turned on.

 

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/fuseblock.jpg

[tp1958]

you have to hold the slides in place when installing they gave me fits till i did that 91vr hope this helps:cool10:

[KIC]

 

You might also check the resistance from inside each plug cap holder to the ignition fuse... it should be about 23k Ohms... 10k for the resistor in the plug holder and 13K for the coil... anything more and there's corrosion... probably on on end of the plug wire.

 

 

Checked mine today..they all were 23/24 Ohms. Thanks for the info.

[bdlight4]

I had the chance to work on my baby. After sitting all winter, I checked the plugs and they were all very black. The left side rear (while sitting on the bike) was not as dirty as the rest. I checked all fuses and tight and in good shape. Looked at the slides for movement. They all moved when given gas. Looks like it is flowing a lot of raw fuel in the cylinders. Checked the temp on all pipes. WOW what a difference. The left front was about 250, left rear 320, right rear 450, right front 104.

 

Pulled the right front plug and cleaned it again, checked and still fires. Bike even runs with plug out!!!

 

Pulled out the carb tune. The left side are equal. The right rear side are way out out. One is half of the height of the left and jumps like crazy. The other is a little closer to the left side but still off by a lot. Did not have sync instructions so had to stop.

 

This is my latest update. It will be Wednesday before I can Look at anything again.

 

Any ideas where to start? I was going to try and sync and see if that helps.

[bongobobny]

Sounds like crud in the idle circuit by the way you are describing symptoms. The sliders may be dancing meaning it's drawing air, but it may not be drawing fuel as well...

[RedRider]

To check the small jet holes, I use the smallest string from my son's guitar (yes, a broken string that he replaced - I'm not taking apart his guitar). It is stiff enough to get thru the crude and flexible enough to work with.

 

RR

[Dragonslayer]

New to posting on this site, but have been researching since last year. Lots of information and help to take in.

 

I have a 88 VR that has served me well for many years. Now, I'm at a point where I may call it quits. I was unable to ride for a whole summer (2010) due to health problems. The VR had been winterized and parked inside. I tried to fire it up spring of 2011 and would not run. Fuel looked like thick/dark apple cider. Drained fuel, flushed fuel tank, replaced fuel filter and filled the tank. At this point the bike barley ran. Pulled the carbs and cleaned following the write ups. No change. Slides did not seem to move, replaced diaphrams. No changed.

 

Now for the expensive part. Tried to find someone to work on it. Only one place in town would touch it. They did a "carb Job" and said it ran great. Picked up the bike and it ran that was about it. No power, bad fuel milage (22 HWY @60), and bike surged on the HWY. Rode it for a week hoping it would come out of it. Only option was to take it back. Two weeks later, picked it up with a pick up coil replaced and a ton of labor hours. Surge on Hwy gone and barley runs.

 

Bike acts like it is bogged down until RPM reaches about 6000. Then it runs like it use to. Tons of power and sounds awesome.

 

Sorry for being long winded but wanted to offer as much info as I could. Any help or ideas would be great. Thanks for your time.

Bill

How do you say it Dea Ja Veau? Is that how you spell it? Your story sounds exactly like mine when I found this sight. I was ready to part mine out on E-bay until I ended up here. Hey George S how many years has it been now?

Was the shop that worked on it Rockdale Cycles outside of Atlanta by chance? $1,400 is what they stuck me for also. Since then my 87VR has been reworked several times and every repair, upgrade and modification that has been thought of has been done to her. Thanks to the great folks and help received on this site.

Hang in there Grasshopper. Wax on Wax Off... Wax on, wax off....Wax on, Wax off.....

[bdlight4]

The plan is to try and sync the carbs either tonight or Wednesday. I hope this takes care of my problem.

 

GeorgeS has been helping me with tons of information. By the time I'm done with his help, I think the bike will gain back about 20 years!

[phertwo]

Carb sync your machine before you start tinkering with your carbs again. I keep my bike synced up, but I've adjusted it to throw it off sync on purpose to see what happens: The bike sounds like it wants to die, like a wounded animal. Put your bike in sync and start from there. Once you tinker with the carbs again, sync it!

[Venturous Randy]

GeorgeS has been helping me with tons of information. By the time I'm done with his help, I think the bike will gain back about 20 years!

 

Speaking of GeorgeS, it shows he was on here today, but has not posted since 8-28-11. What is with you George?

RandyA

Edited April 5, 2012 by Venturous Randy

[GeorgeS]

Well, sorry guys, have have not been around much the last year or so.

 

Been haveing a lot of family problems, ( won't go into that ) ( but the worst is over )

 

The 89 Venture has been running great for the last 40K or so.

 

Only made one 600 mile trip last summer, due to other problems. But planning on hitting the road again this summer. Most likley will be heading down to Los Angeles, and Also touring some back roads, in Oregon State.

 

I might possibly make a Run to Minneapolis Minn. And check in with some old friends there.

 

The last 15 months or so, the only Mods, I have made to the 89 Venture, has been to Install an Icom IC-7000 Ham Radio Transciever, and duel antenna system for the HF Radio system. I have been fabricating Home Brew HF antenna,s for the Bike, and the ham radio installation in my Chevy Trail Blazer.

 

Anyway, after dealing with a lot of problems, I finally have fully functional HF Ham radio comm from the bike, on the road, in motion. 100 Watt System, operating 40, 20, 15, and 10 Meters. ( also, 2Meters, and 440 band ) But have to Change antennas for the different HF Frequency bands. ( IF your not a Ham Radio Operator, Ignor this information, won't mean anything to you !! )

 

Basicly, it was more trouble then it was worth, but--- I got it working. ( us retired guys have to do something to keep from going crazy )

 

Obvious Question here, is "" Batteries """ ??? -----I'm useing Two, DEKA, AGM Bats. Run them in Parallel. #2 battery is mounted in left side saddle bag.

 

Will be installing a new Dunlop E-4 this month, about 17K on the old one, and should be ready for the summer. Had the bike out yesterday for a 75 mile run, seems to be running great.

 

:whistling:

Edited April 4, 2012 by GeorgeS

[Venturous Randy]

Well, it's good to hear from you George.

We have some ham radio enthusiasts around here as they like to go up on the local mountain that is about 6,000 feet up and talk to the world.

Oh, did not realize there was an E-4 available.

RandyA

[Dragonslayer]

Nice hearing from you George. Just put the Dingy progammable TCI on, Dano Starter Clutch Mod on, New Dunlops front & back and am about to pull the trigger on the HO Stator and R/R tomorrow. But the old 87 is still hanging in there.