Water Pump Rebuild

[Tieftoener]

After some winter maintenance, I started the bike up for a short test drive. When I came back, coolant was leaking pretty badly from the weep hole under the water pump.

 

Guess its time for a rebuild...

 

After searching the forums last night, I haven't seen a complete parts lists or technical aid anywhere, so thought I'd try to document it all in one place.

 

A couple questions:

1. I found in another post that P/N: 1FK-12450-00-00 is the newer metal impeller and that the plastic one was only used on MKI 1st gens. Can anyone (or a few people) confirm that this is indeed the metal replacement? I went through several years of bikes on Part Shark and they all listed this same P/N, but didn't indicate it as a replacement for obsolete part, which raised some suspicion.

2. Should I replace the thermostat too?

3. How do I get the water pump housing off without breaking the 90 degree plastic elbow joint between the thermostat and pump housing? Does it just slide/press in with the O-ring? Is it best to pull it out of the thermostat housing when pulling the pump housing off the case? Does it come easily or is there a safe method to pry/pull on it?

4. Is it necessary to replace the plastic gear (item 4)? I assume its worth $14 since I'll have it all apart, but just checking.

5. Will oil come out (do I need to drain oil) when I pull the water pump housing off the case?

6. What is item 3's purpose (Pin, dowel)? Should I replace that? Is it pressed in?

7. I'm planning to replace all the parts below. Am I missing anything?

8. I've read that success rate on a rebuild is not good. What are common mistakes or causes for this? What do I need to watch out for?

 

Thanks in advance, everyone!

 

Rebuild Parts List:

1FK-12450-00-00 – Qty 1

IMPELLER SHAFT ASY for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 2 – this is supposedly the metal version, original was plastic

$39.72

 

11H-12438-10-00 – Qty 1

SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 8 – ceramic water tight seal

$19.54

 

93101-10090-00 – Qty 1

OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 7

$2.52

 

93306-00004-00 – Qty 1

BEARING for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 6

$13.05

 

99009-10400-00 – Qty 2

CIRCLIP for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 5, 2 places

$1.18

 

26H-12459-00-00

GEAR, IMPELLER SHAFT

Item 4

$13.86

-----------------------------------

93211-16591-00 – Qty 1

O-RING for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (Outer Impeller Case Cover O-ring gasket)

Item 9

$5.05

 

214-11198-01-00 – Qty 1

GASKET for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (Drain Plug O-ring)

Item 12

$1.25

 

3JP-12449-02-00 – Qty 1

GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (Gasket for main case housing)

Item 14

$5.02

 

93210-27778-00 – Qty 2

O-RING for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (O-ring seals for elbow joint between Pump housing and T-stat)

Item 19

$1.45

[frankd]

Yamaha has eliminated the plastic impellors and replaced all new ones with the metal version. What that means is that if you order a new repalcement for YOUR bike, you will get a metal one. When I rebult 2nd gear on my 83 @ 86,000 miles, I took my water pump apart and when I saw that the impellor was cracked, I replaced it. I installed new seals and @ 150K it's still leak free. That 90 degree plastic fitting is indeed sealed with O rings, so yes, it's not a problem getting it apart. It may not be a bad idea to replace ALL the O rings in the cooling system because sooner or later one of them will start leaking. You'll have the system drained and apart, so it's easy to change the O rings now. Both of my bikes still have the original thermostats, but then I never worried abouit a thermostat failure. I feel that it if sticks in the open position, you can come home fine. If it sticks in the closed position, I'll notice the heat gauge rising abnormally and I can open the thermostat bypass and come home just fine. Some have changed the thermostat with an automotive equivelant. It's been a long time since I've had the water pump apart, so I can't answer your other question(s).

[dingy]

The main thing you need are:

1FK-12450-00-00 – Qty 1

IMPELLER SHAFT ASY for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 2 – this is supposedly the metal version, original was plastic

$39.72

11H-12438-10-00 – Qty 1

SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 8 – ceramic water tight seal

$19.54

 

93101-10090-00 – Qty 1

OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 7

$2.52

1FK-12450-00-00 – Qty 1

IMPELLER SHAFT ASY for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 2 – this is supposedly the metal version, original was plastic

$39.72

Hardest part will be getting the face seal into the housing. Getting old one out can be a pain, but it can be destroyed to get out. The face seal needs to be driven into pump case. You get one shot at this, it won't come back out in a usable condition.

If your impeller is metal version, it probably doesn't need replaced.

I have some pictures at home of the internals of the pump.

Oil should not need drained if bike is on sidestand & maybe centerstand.

I would replace thermostat. I got a auto one at O'Riely's, don't know the number right now. If you replaces t-stat, there is an oring gasket in t-stat cover that you should get.

Dowel pin fixes plastic gear to shaft rotationally, slip fit. Gear should not need to be replaced.

Gary

[Tieftoener]

Thanks guys!

 

Gary, you put the impeller on the list twice - did you intend to put something else at the bottom or was it just a copy/paste error? Not a big deal, just wanted to check. If you do have a chance to get those pictures, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks much in advance!

 

I really appreciate you input!

[reddevilmedic]

i tried to rebuild mine 3 times!!!! finally, bought one from a dealer. the seal with the spring wrapped in it, is very touchy!

[skydoc_17]

That seal should be PRESSED in, if you try to beat it in with a hammer, you'll be buying a few, usually. I would suggest you add the Thermostat Housing Cover to the list. The Thermostat Housing is Metal, the cover is plastic. With only two screws holding it down, sometimes it seals, and sometimes it doesn't. (the plastic warps) The two metric cap screws are usually rusted up pretty good as well, I always replace them. I usually don't replace the Yamaha Thermostat, it is an excellent quality porduct. Certainly not with a "made in china" one. For what it's worth, I won't rebuild a water pump here at the shop any more, Frying a motor over the cost of a new water pump is not worth it, In my opinion. Just my 2 cents. Good Luck With This Project!

Earl

[Tieftoener]

That seal should be PRESSED in, if you try to beat it in with a hammer, you'll be buying a few, usually. I would suggest you add the Thermostat Housing Cover to the list. The Thermostat Housing is Metal, the cover is plastic. With only two screws holding it down, sometimes it seals, and sometimes it doesn't. (the plastic warps) The two metric cap screws are usually rusted up pretty good as well, I always replace them. I usually don't replace the Yamaha Thermostat, it is an excellent quality porduct. Certainly not with a "made in china" one. For what it's worth, I won't rebuild a water pump here at the shop any more, Frying a motor over the cost of a new water pump is not worth it, In my opinion. Just my 2 cents. Good Luck With This Project!

Earl

 

Baaaah! I figured as much... Of course, my press is 1050 miles away in storage with all my other big toys. Moving cross-country 3 times in two years is not recommended.

 

Maybe I can rig a press using my vice...

[dingy]

The main thing you need are:

 

1FK-12450-00-00 – Qty 1

IMPELLER SHAFT ASY for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 2 – this is supposedly the metal version, original was plastic

$39.72

 

11H-12438-10-00 – Qty 1

SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 8 – ceramic water tight seal

$19.54

 

93101-10090-00 – Qty 1

OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D

Item 7

$2.52

93211-16591-00 – Qty 1

O-RING for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (Outer Impeller Case Cover O-ring gasket)

Item 9

$5.05

 

214-11198-01-00 – Qty 1

GASKET for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (Drain Plug O-ring)

Item 12

$1.25

 

3JP-12449-02-00 – Qty 1

GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (Gasket for main case housing)

Item 14

$5.02

 

93210-27778-00 – Qty 2

O-RING for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D (O-ring seals for elbow joint between Pump housing and T-stat)

Item 19

$1.45

 

Gary

 

Baaaah! I figured as much... Of course, my press is 1050 miles away in storage with all my other big toys. Moving cross-country 3 times in two years is not recommended.

 

Maybe I can rig a press using my vice...

Attached is a picture I took for another member that was having an issue after he installed his pump. Impeller not shown.

 

I added other items in red to list I did. I am forced into using explorer at work, no spell check and I didn't get some items listed.

 

Problem with pressing/driving it in a vise is the backside of the pump housing doesn't have a good flat surface to press against unless you have about a 6" vise. Arbor press is best, but with some McGyvering, a large C clamp can be adapted with some bar stock steel.

 

The seal has to go straight in first time. It must be pressed against the large diameter metal ring. A large socket can be used that engages the outer ring fully.

 

As far as blowing an engine from this, unlikely if you are careful and check oil/coolant after 50 - 100 miles. If you have carbide side of seal it in flat & even you are probably OK, If it looks questionable as far as alignment, you need to than make a call as to what needs to be done. It is doable with a mid range of skills & tools. I have put two in mine with no problem. 1st was when I rebuilt motor 2 years ago, then last year I powder coated pump housing black and had to replace seal to be able to cure powder.

 

Gary

[mlew]

Sucess in rebuilding a water pump is proper seal installation. I have seen people try to press them in with sockets or pipe, WRONG , it will leak. You can't press the seal face in without some kind of lube. The proper way is to lube the rubber with a water solubile lube, AKA soap. Any dish soap works, dilute it half and half with water. Do not use any kind of petroliun lube, it will get on the seal and make it leak. A little soap on the seal face and it will slide in with finger pressure. Installing the seal around the shaft is the same. Rinse the excess soap off before assembling. I have been rebuilding pumps of all kinds for years and it has never failed me.

[Tieftoener]

 

Problem with pressing/driving it in a vise is the backside of the pump housing doesn't have a good flat surface to press against unless you have about a 6" vise. Arbor press is best, but with some McGyvering, a large C clamp can be adapted with some bar stock steel.

 

The seal has to go straight in first time. It must be pressed against the large diameter metal ring. A large socket can be used that engages the outer ring fully.

 

I was thinking of mounting the pump case to a good straight piece of oak and putting that against the vice. C-clamp with bar stock seems like a good option too.

 

Sucess in rebuilding a water pump is proper seal installation. I have seen people try to press them in with sockets or pipe, WRONG , it will leak. You can't press the seal face in without some kind of lube. The proper way is to lube the rubber with a water solubile lube, AKA soap. Any dish soap works, dilute it half and half with water. Do not use any kind of petroliun lube, it will get on the seal and make it leak. A little soap on the seal face and it will slide in with finger pressure. Installing the seal around the shaft is the same. Rinse the excess soap off before assembling. I have been rebuilding pumps of all kinds for years and it has never failed me.

 

Great tip - thanks!

[dingy]

Sucess in rebuilding a water pump is proper seal installation. I have seen people try to press them in with sockets or pipe, WRONG , it will leak. You can't press the seal face in without some kind of lube. The proper way is to lube the rubber with a water solubile lube, AKA soap. Any dish soap works, dilute it half and half with water. Do not use any kind of petroliun lube, it will get on the seal and make it leak. A little soap on the seal face and it will slide in with finger pressure. Installing the seal around the shaft is the same. Rinse the excess soap off before assembling. I have been rebuilding pumps of all kinds for years and it has never failed me.

 

 

With all due respect, if you can push the carbide side of the seal in with a finger, you have a big S on your shirt.

 

The ceramic side that rides in the rubber grommet can be done this way, but I doubt the carbide side can be.

 

Gary