Do we have any HVAC pros here?

[ragtop69gs]

I just got a Trane XE80 downflow furnace/ AC unit out of a neighborhood house that's going to be demolished next week. The unit has a build date of 1995. As I said it's a downflow, can it be reconfigured to an upflow ? The furnace looks to be in excellent condition and was used until the home was vacated last year. If it can, I'll use it to replace the 1980 Carrier in the house and put the Carrier in the garage.

[XV1100SE]

Nobody pulled a gun and threatened to shoot you as you came out of the "soon to be demolished house"? Only in Canada ! :-)

[frankd]

Warm air furnaces are generally designed in two configurations---One that is upflow, and another that can be used for either downflow OR horizontal. The downfall unit will be great for a garage because it'll blow the hot air onto the cold concrete. Even though it won't fit in your house, it's still a good deal for you.

 

Frank D.

[ragtop69gs]

Nobody pulled a gun and threatened to shoot you as you came out of the "soon to be demolished house"? Only in Canada ! :-)

 

Not this time, but, most of the neighbors are aware of the fact that I SHOOT BACK!

 

Warm air furnaces are generally designed in two configurations---One that is upflow, and another that can be used for either downflow OR horizontal. The downfall unit will be great for a garage because it'll blow the hot air onto the cold concrete. Even though it won't fit in your house, it's still a good deal for you.

 

Frank D.

 

I ain't complainin Came with a 2 ton ac unit & lines Heat and air in the garage, gotta love it.

[Eddie]

In 1995 Trane didnt make a muti position furnace. That XE80 was a decent furnace when it came out . but it is a counter flow . If the AC lines were cut and not sealed all they are good for is scrap. Put a picture on here with the doors off. maybe it can be flipped.

Edited February 26, 2012 by Eddie

[ragtop69gs]

In 1995 Trand didnt make a muti position furnace. That XE80 was a decent furnace when it came out . but it is a counter flow . If the AC lines were cut and not sealed all they are good for is scrap. Put a picture on here with the doors off. maybe it can be flipped.

 

The Lines were capped and soldered. I'll get a few shots tomorrow. Thanks.

[ragtop69gs]

Here's a few pics of the furnace.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

I say no... not able to flip. It is a "mid" efficiency unit. I could not even get a permit to install that here any more.... if I was trying. It is a garage furnace at best now. Any furnace requires some duct work installed on the outlet so even to install it in the garage you need to have a lower section of tin work made up so you do not burn it out very quickly.

 

just my $.02.

[Eddie]

That is a dedicated counter flow Jay. No turning that one around. If you decide to hang it in the garage and need some ideas let me know. I also have a full sheet metal shop to help with any duct work.

[ragtop69gs]

I say no... not able to flip. It is a "mid" efficiency unit. I could not even get a permit to install that here any more.... if I was trying. It is a garage furnace at best now. Any furnace requires some duct work installed on the outlet so even to install it in the garage you need to have a lower section of tin work made up so you do not burn it out very quickly.

 

just my $.02.

 

That is a dedicated counter flow Jay. No turning that one around. If you decide to hang it in the garage and need some ideas let me know. I also have a full sheet metal shop to help with any duct work.

 

I thank you both for your opinions.

 

Looks like it will go in the garage. I'll have to do a propane conversion on it because there's too many tree roots to run a gas line.I still have access to the house to get the duct work for it. There's a wye that connected to the bottom and 20 ft going off each leg. How much of the duct would I have to use so as not to burn it out. Would the wye be enough if I put some louvered registers on it to create some back pressure and direct the heat across the floor? I could add a few feet before the wye, I have an 11ft ceiling in the 30'x48' garage.

[Eddie]

I thank you both for your opinions.

 

Looks like it will go in the garage. I'll have to do a propane conversion on it because there's too many tree roots to run a gas line.I still have access to the house to get the duct work for it. There's a wye that connected to the bottom and 20 ft going off each leg. How much of the duct would I have to use so as not to burn it out. Would the wye be enough if I put some louvered registers on it to create some back pressure and direct the heat across the floor? I could add a few feet before the wye, I have an 11ft ceiling in the 30'x48' garage.

 

You dont need any as long as you keep it off the ground about two feet. Ive built open sided racks for this kind of install . I also build a small fitting for the top to hold a filter. Mount the T-stat on the other side of the garage and you are good to go. Not to start a debate with Kevin but Ive never seen a furnace burn out from no duct work. I like upflows for a garage. Ive put in a few for friends (used equipment). Put a fliter rack on the side, build a shelf about four foot off the floor set it up there and let it go.

[ragtop69gs]

You dont need any as long as you keep it off the ground about two feet. Ive built open sided racks for this kind of install . I also build a small fitting for the top to hold a filter. Mount the T-stat on the other side of the garage and you are good to go. Not to start a debate with Kevin but Ive never seen a furnace burn out from no duct work. I like upflows for a garage. Ive put in a few for friends (used equipment). Put a fliter rack on the side, build a shelf about four foot off the floor set it up there and let it go.

 

 

I have an upflow in there now, but I've been having trouble with it for a few years, time for it to go. I have the intake plenum for it, it has a filter slot in it. I think the DF would be better in the garage, less chance of picking up explosive vapors drawing from near the ceiling ? I'll get some numbers off it, I'm gonna need a propane kit for it. I have a 100# bottle already plumbed in.

[tazmocycle]

that furnace can be downflow or horizonal right or left. if you look at the 2 whit rollout limits on each side of the burners lets you know if you lay it on either side, if for some reason the vent don't work right the heat will rise to it, overheating it and melt the solder in them and shut off the furnace. you don't really need to put duct on it, just make sure you put a filter on the inlet or fan side. with propane or lp gas they are heaveir than air and will settle down in low spaces, so up high is best to install. i had a preacher that tried to do his own startup on the churches lp furnaces in a dug-out basement, after bleeding the lines he tried to lite them and blewup the furnace and ductwork. it blew the grills out the floor and blew the attic acess door about 10 feet back into the attic space. he also burned the hair and skin off his face. he also burn the tips of his ears too, his glasses saved his eyes. so be careful when you are doing any work on the lp gas.

if the a/c is freon 22 you maybe in for a suprise! it has tripled in price since the first of the year, so you maybe looking at a bit of money to recharge it.

[Eddie]

Jay get the model # ser # if you want to lay it on its side I think you can only go left side with this model. R22 is going to top out at double what it was last year. I was able to find this out early and took advantage of the info. Thanks Big Mike. Big Mike was an American Standard dealer back in the 90"s and can give you all the info you need. American Standard and Trane same company. Just like Carrier and Bryant.

[ragtop69gs]

Is there an advantage to laying it on it's side? Is one way more efficent than the other? I have the #'s at home, I'll post them when i get there around 10:00

 

I thought the price fluctuations went away with R12.

 

I'll try not to blow myself up Thats why the tank is outside and it's all black pipe coming in to the unit.

[ragtop69gs]

Trane Xe80

Model TDD080C936C0

S/N K19523328

 

Manuf. 1995

[tazmocycle]

the efficencity is the same don't matter which way it's installed. you can slow down the blower speeds to get hotter air out of it, but you may overheat it and the high limits will start tripping out. if it has a 3 on the end of model # then on high speed in a/c mod is whats recommended. you put it on medium high for 2.5, medium low for 2 and low for 1.5 ton a/c. you set the heat on the next lower speed as hot air is easier to move than a/c heavier air. if you put it on lp gas you need to derate the btu's input by 10% so the gas/air mixture is the proper mix to burn right without sooting up. when they came out with the exhaust vent fan assited, you don't has as much problems with this as they use to when it was a natural draft system. also make sure you set the gas pressure on it as needed as this will effect how is burns. 3.5""wc for nat. and 11"wc on lp or propane. most of the gas companies has a manometer to set the pressure with and usually will if you ask while they are there setting up the tank. make sure they set the regulator on the tank when they set it up because a lot of times they assume it already set but i have seen a lot of them wayoff from the factory.

i noticed i pic#3 the control and the blower speed wire are in the top right of it, one should say "cool", another says heat and the other 2 says spare or park. the 2 that say park is for the wire not being used. looks like lack is high, blue is med. high, yellow is med. low and red is low. hope this help you out, don.

Edited February 29, 2012 by tazmocycle

[ragtop69gs]

Thanks Don, it does. No difference then it will go vertical. I never checked the tank regulator, I thought it was not adjustable ! I will check it now though. I'll get my neighbor to double check the pressures for me when I do the lp conversion. I'm not sure of the cooling ton's, I have not run the numbers for it yet.

 

Thanks