Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I am going to be stripping & cataloging the parts bike. The engine has 60K mile & I would like to remove it, crate it & store it for future rebuild. What is the best way to get it out of the frame.

My available lifting tools are a car floor jack. car transmission jack, a bottle jack, as well as a full car engine crane.

 

Now on my 81 CB750 I found the easiest way to remove the engine was to remove all the mounts on the left side, lay her down & remove the right motor mounting points. When I lift the frame up, the engine is sitting nicely on the floor w/o a problem.

 

I read Scott MacMartin's write up

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39013

but it really doesn't clarify the actual removal.

So to the ones on here who have pulled their Gen1 engines, how did you do it?

Edited by cabreco
Added Scott MacMartin name
Posted

Remove all connected wiring.

Remove radiator & all hosing.

Remove carbs.

Remove mufflers, collector & front headers.

Remove rear wheel, final drive, driveshaft & swingarm.

Support motor with a rolling type car jack.

Remove 6 motor mounts & lower right frame rail tube.

Motor will pivot out right side of frame.

Gary

Posted

Let us know how it goes. As several on here I've been all around it but never pulled engine completely out. Got several to do if I ever get Shelter to do it in. ( I didn't say garage!!)

 

Be sure to turn engine Off before removing!! Good Luck with it.

Posted
Let us know how it goes. As several on here I've been all around it but never pulled engine completely out.

 

Will do, I'll probable document it either with pix or on a video & post it to Freebird for the site.

 

Having a parts bike has it's advantages

Posted
Remove all connected wiring.

Remove radiator & all hosing.

Remove carbs.

Remove mufflers, collector & front headers.

Remove rear wheel, final drive, driveshaft & swingarm.

Support motor with a rolling type car jack.

Remove 6 motor mounts & lower right frame rail tube.

Motor will pivot out right side of frame.

 

Gary

 

:sign yeah that:

I had the bike clamped on four-wheel dollies so it could be moved around the garage. I removed the engine and replaced it without removing the rear wheel, final drive, driveshaft and swingarm. I was able to stab the driveshaft back in when re-installing.

 

I pulled the engine with the fairing installed and broke a tab. Be careful and this won't happen to you . . .

Posted
hey yammer dan,if you rode a second gen than you would have money to build you a shellter instead of all those old parts for that dieing first gen.

 

 

 

I guess you need another lesson. "Brown Sugar" or "Ugly"???

Posted
:sign yeah that:

I had the bike clamped on four-wheel dollies so it could be moved around the garage. I removed the engine and replaced it without removing the rear wheel, final drive, driveshaft and swingarm. I was able to stab the driveshaft back in when re-installing.

 

I pulled the engine with the fairing installed and broke a tab. Be careful and this won't happen to you . . .

 

You can pull the motor with the swing arm in place, but it makes it 500% easier to get back in with swing arm removed.

Gary

Posted
Remove all connected wiring.

Remove radiator & all hosing.

Remove carbs.

Remove mufflers, collector & front headers.

Remove rear wheel, final drive, driveshaft & swingarm.

Support motor with a rolling type car jack.

Remove 6 motor mounts & lower right frame rail tube.

Motor will pivot out right side of frame.

 

Gary

 

What he forgot to mention is that this process takes about 5 solid days. :D

I did like GaryZ and did not remove rear wheel/final drive/driveshaft/swingarm. It did take me several days to putz with everything but I got it out of there entirely by myself using nothing but a regular automotive jack. Going back IN was a different story (and I would suggest removing the rear components like Dingy suggested)... that took three people and a lot of wiggling/repositioning to get it to happen. It made me wonder how in the world I got it out of there by myself without dropping it or causing some other sort of significant damage. Egress = not bad. Ingress = much harder.

The other thing that took me by surprise was that I found myself able to lift the entire powerplant completely off the floor by myself. It took just about everything I had to do it, but I did manage it. No wonder my back hurts... :no-no-no:

Posted

You can easily take the engine out and put it back in by yourself if you do what I did.

I have a floor jack that is bigger that one of those that you can pick up and easily throw in the trunk of your car. The piece that swivels on the lift top will come out so there is a hole.

Using a spare oil pan, I took two pieces of 2X4 and notched them so that when mounted to a one foot square board, the oil pan nestled snugly. I then put some holes in the outer corners of the board and one in the middle to mount the board to the jack. By placing the setup under the engine and seating the oil pan and then running a couple of narrow tie down straps across the engine and putting the hooks in the holes in the board, you can secure the engine to the jack.

With the engine secured, you can wiggle it out and if you have the weight centered good, it is very stable to roll around. One of the small four wheel dollys from Harbor freight is perfect if you are going to turn the engine upside down and do transmission work. It also works good if you set the engine upright.

While the engine is out, this is a great time to put in the solid motor mounts. If you contact SGN, Steve Neal, he may have some sets left.

It is also a good thing to remove the right side upper fairing because if you don't it does get in the way and tabs can get broken off. It also helps if the rear swing arm is off to pull the engine and especially to put to back in. For sure, you should remove the rear end and drive shaft if you don't remove the swing arm.

For those of you doing the 2nd gear repair, while the engine is out, this is a good time to check valve clearances and maybe replace the valve cover gaskets. This is also a good time to remove the TCI to relocate it either on top of the air box, or like I did, on the inside of the left fairing.

If you do remove your swing arm, this is a great time to put Zerk fittings in the rear shock/swing arm pivot assembly.

Reassembly is just remounting the engine to the board and strapping is down and putting it back in the bike and wiggling everything in place.

RandyA

Posted

We had an adventure last year, Wizard765 needed to have 2nd gear redone. We were so good at it, we thought just for the fun of it we'd get that engine in and out in record time. The first time it took a while, but by the third time, I had that engine ready to come out in 1 hr 15 minutes, and yes, all the clothes were back on already,,,, don't ask me why, but it happened just that way!

Getting it back in was more of a picnic, but if you hold your tongue just right, lean a bit to the side and then look away at just the right time, it all comes together with the swing arm in place, but you will have to remove the drive shaft. After putting 4 engines back with the SA attached, I still haven't not blinked at the right time to know exactly how it was done, but it was a PITA. So swing arm removal and service is recommended.

Just make sure that if you do the 2nd gear thrust washer thing, you take out aaaallllll the old washers first!

Posted
You can easily take the engine out and put it back in by yourself if you do what I did.

I have a floor jack that is bigger that one of those that you can pick up and easily throw in the trunk of your car. The piece that swivels on the lift top will come out so there is a hole.

Yep I have an old Craftsman floorjack with an 8' diameter lift plate (I think it's a 4 ton)

 

Using a spare oil pan, I took two pieces of 2X4 and notched them so that when mounted to a one foot square board, the oil pan nestled snugly. I then put some holes in the outer corners of the board and one in the middle to mount the board to the jack.
And ya couldn't find a pix of that set up? Break out the camera, That sound like a nice rig.

 

BTW Randy, I was in your backyard last weekend checking the area out. Wife loves the area. Looks like we're a go for a 2013 move!

Posted
You can easily take the engine out and put it back in by yourself if you do what I did.

I have a floor jack that is bigger that one of those that you can pick up and easily throw in the trunk of your car. The piece that swivels on the lift top will come out so there is a hole.

Yep I have an old Craftsman floorjack with an 8' diameter lift plate (I think it's a 4 ton)

 

Using a spare oil pan, I took two pieces of 2X4 and notched them so that when mounted to a one foot square board, the oil pan nestled snugly. I then put some holes in the outer corners of the board and one in the middle to mount the board to the jack.
And ya couldn't find a pix of that set up?

 

BTW Randy, I was in your backyard last weekend checking the area out. Wife loves the area. Looks like we're a go for a 2013 move!

Posted

And ya couldn't find a pix of that set up? Break out the camera, That sound like a nice rig.

 

BTW Randy, I was in your backyard last weekend checking the area out. Wife loves the area. Looks like we're a go for a 2013 move!

 

I would take a picture, but my son, Lil Venturous, borrowed the set up to pull a transmission in his car and when he took the pieces off the board that the oil pan nested in, he lost one of them. I have not needed to use it again, so I have not made another one.

As far as this area, I feel blessed as it is a beautiful area and it is wonderful for riding a motorcycle. We have roads like the "Tail of the Dragon" everywhere.

RandyA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...