Where are all of the threads on engine oil?

[BradT]

I checked the local Wal-Mart and found Castrol GTX 20-50 in a 5-qt jug for $15.97

I think this is what I will be using . . . Thanks Yammer!

 

Yup change the oil at 1,500 or 2,000 miles and still cheaper than the other one.

 

Brad

[twigg]

Yup change the oil at 1,500 or 2,000 miles and still cheaper than the other one.

 

Brad

 

This, according to the research, would probably work okay.

 

Diesel Oil, on the same basis, is a better solution as it is not degrading the same way, and you can stick to regular service intervals

 

Oh, and it's still only about $12 per gallon.

[playboy]

Well I had never heard of using Rotella 15w 40 in a bike but I can tell you it's good oil. Over 250,000 miles on my Cat diesel and the inside is just as clean as the day it was rebuilt no sludge build up of any kinda and it gets opened up about every 80 to 100,000 for a overhead (valve adj.) and that's changing oil every 10,000 miles. Way more abuse than any of our bikes will ever see. do I use it in my bike not yet anyway just thought I would throw this out there for those considering it.

[twigg]

Well I had never heard of using Rotella 15w 40 in a bike but I can tell you it's good oil. Over 250,000 miles on my Cat diesel and the inside is just as clean as the day it was rebuilt no sludge build up of any kinda and it gets opened up about every 80 to 100,000 for a overhead (valve adj.) and that's changing oil every 10,000 miles. Way more abuse than any of our bikes will ever see. do I use it in my bike not yet anyway just thought I would throw this out there for those considering it.

 

I use it, when I can get it.

 

Someone from Shell Rotella was asked why that oil wasn't designated for motorcycles, and the reply was that they hadn't had it tested.

 

Methinks the fact that they also sell a motorcycle oil at three times the price may have something to do with it

[Yammer Dan]

I think a few here use the Rotella. I change the Castrol about every 3000. Sooner if I plan a long trip and don't want to run too far over.

 

There are several good oils. Pick a good one and CHANGE IT AS YOU SHOULD!!!

 

Nuff said.

[twigg]

We are talking about the Diesel Shell Rotella? Right?

 

That's the one I meant (confusion is easy around here).

 

I generally aim for 4000 miles, and it comes out in decent shape. It's cheap so I don't mind. 4000 seems to fit my riding, although one batch will go 5000 miles this summer, maybe 5500.

 

I rarely need to add more than a few ounces between changes so all seems okay there.

[flb_78]

15W40 Diesel oil for me.

 

Whatever is cheapest when I need it, usually SuperTech or Rotella T.

 

Rotella T 15W40 and Rotella T6 5W40 are both Jaso MA rated oils for motorcycles.

[playboy]

:sign yeah that: diesel rotella

[GaryZ]

Lots of good information from everyone. Thanks!

However, nobody has answered the title question;

Why didn't I get any hits using search?

 

[spear]

Lots of good information from everyone. Thanks!

However, nobody has answered the title question;

Why didn't I get any hits using search?

 

Obviously didn't have ya tongue stickin' out at the correct angle as ya typed!

[Freebird]

The word oil is too short and too common. The minimum word length for the search engine is 4 characters. I can set that value but anything less than 4 characters causing the search engine index to be HUGE and very server intensive. There are a few 3 letter words that I have added but oil is not one of them.

 

You CAN search for oil if you click on the search button at the upper right in the lower menu bar and use the google option. When you click on search and the drop down menu opens, at the very bottom is "Google Search". Enter "oil" in there and then select the "venturerider" button. You can search for 3 character words using that method. Actually, that option works best for ALL searches here.

 

I just tried that and got 58,700 posts that contain the word "oil". It can be a bit overwhelming.

[GaryZ]

The word oil is too short and too common. The minimum word length for the search engine is 4 characters. I can set that value but anything less than 4 characters causing the search engine index to be HUGE and very server intensive. There are a few 3 letter words that I have added but oil is not one of them.

 

You CAN search for oil if you click on the search button at the upper right in the lower menu bar and use the google option. When you click on search and the drop down menu opens, at the very bottom is "Google Search". Enter "oil" in there and then select the "venturerider" button. You can search for 3 character words using that method. Actually, that option works best for ALL searches here.

 

I just tried that and got 58,700 posts that contain the word "oil". It can be a bit overwhelming.

 

I did try "oil type", "engine oil", and a couple others. Each attempt would ignore "oil" and find stuff for the other word. That's why I started this thread. I read your answer above and your thread (http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=67330). This Google Search method works well. Searching "oil types" got me a very manageable 194 posts. Thanks!

[BradT]

nobody has answered the title question;

 

:rotf:See what happens when you say oil nobody even reads the question they just want to tell you what to use.

 

use the google option.

 

Wow, Google and you never mentioned it ?

 

Brad

[GaryZ]

:rotf:See what happens when you say oil nobody even reads the question they just want to tell you what to use. :think:Brad

 

Ain't that the truth . . .

[Brenda H]

Bookmarking this in case he ever tries to sell a motorcycle

 

:rotf:

 

Good thing I just bought my luggage rack from him and not the darn bike!!

[Brenda H]

Lucas Motorcycle semi-synthetic 10-40

 

http://www.lucasoil.com/images/products/C1D607B94DC28438CE05A760CD9F7AE5.gif

 

$7.47@Walmart.

\

 

Providing, of course, that your Walmart carries it. Mine doesn't.

[jasonm.]

I searched the site for information on VR engine oil and came up with nothing!

Where did this stuff go? I know I have seen many threads on this hot topic . . .

 

Anyway, I have a question. The manual says to use;

SAE 10-30 type SE when not operating above 60 degrees F

SAE 20-40 type SE when not operating below 40 degrees F

 

We get to operate from 10 to 110 in Oklahoma.

What are you North Texas boys running?

the info you state is a mjority case. If the majority of the rides are at the temps given. Then this is why there is a drain plug....for oil changes. I never have run anything lighter than 10w40. Mainly because 10w30 can have the "BAD" friction modifiers. Summer should always be a 15w50 or 20w50 or 10w50 or 20w40 or 15w40. There are many here who prefer oine type or brand over another. Start with weight 1st, then decide the brand. I have used Mobil1 and Spectro in my bike for over 20 years. It still pushes more HP at the dyno than you'd expect...ya..90 or so

Edited February 26, 2012 by jasonm.

[twigg]

Good thing I just bought my luggage rack from him and not the darn bike!!

 

Did it smell of fries?

[Gray Ghost]

I never have run anything lighter than 10w40. Mainly because 10w30 can have the "BAD" friction modifiers. Summer should always be a 15w50 or 20w50 or 10w50 or 20w40 or 15w40. ...

 

Actually all of the various weights of oil can have the friction modifiers. Friction modifiers were introduced with API service duty rating SJ in 1996. What I am being told is that MC engines also do better with a more ZDP which was reduced with API rating SH. The rating that you do want to see is JASMO MA (as someone else has already stated). That rating is for motorcycles that use a wet clutch sharing the engine oil. The history of ratings is below. (And more recent ratings usually incorporate the previous standards, so I wouldn't trust anything above SG without the JASMO rating. The diesel oils will have a rating beginning with C and I don't have the info on them. See http://www.api.org for more info.

 

Service Duty ratings and year added:

 

SA - 1940s (no additives)

SB - 1949 (additives introduced)

SC - 1964 (anti-sludging emphasized)

SD - 1968 (anti-wear emphasized)

SE - 1972 (anti-oxidation emphasized)

SF - 1980 (EP additives emphasized)

SG - 1990 (EP additives emphasized)

SH - 1994 (ZDP reduced - catalytic converters)

SJ - 1996 (friction modifiers introduced)

SL - 2001 (increased anti-oxidation)

SM - 2004 (improved deposit protection and low-temp performance)

SN - 2010 (improved high temp deposit protection, sludge control, and seal compatibility)

[BradT]

Service Duty ratings and year added:

 

SA - 1940s (no additives)

SB - 1949 (additives introduced)

SC - 1964 (anti-sludging emphasized)

SD - 1968 (anti-wear emphasized)

SE - 1972 (anti-oxidation emphasized)

SF - 1980 (EP additives emphasized)

SG - 1990 (EP additives emphasized)

SH - 1994 (ZDP reduced - catalytic converters)

SJ - 1996 (friction modifiers introduced)

SL - 2001 (increased anti-oxidation)

SM - 2004 (improved deposit protection and low-temp performance)

SN - 2010 (improved high temp deposit protection, sludge control, and seal compatibility)

 

All advertising or marketing, just see the thread by SilverT

 

Brad

[TexasVenture]

Rotella T6 5W-40 - About 21 bucks at Walmart for a gallon jug.

 

It's a synthetic and a diesel oil. Don't let the fact that it is formulated for diesels scare you. It runs great in my 08 Venture, and is a fraction of the cost of the Yamalube, and all of the other over-priced motorcycle oils.

 

Shell knows that thousands of motorcycle owners use this in their bikes. Rotella T6 (CJ-4) is JASO MA (motorcycle, wet clutch) certified. I have been using the Rotella T6 (CJ-4) with no issues at all.

 

http://www.micromedia.org/rotella/rotella.jpg

 

http://www.micromedia.org/rotella/rotella2.jpg

Edited March 27, 2012 by TexasVenture

[GaryZ]

OK gentlemen, I'm going to stir the pot . . .

I have been riding a very long time and owned a lot of bikes and cars. I have never used synthetic oil and decided to try it in my VR last year. The poor thing immediately started leaking around the wire seals (left side) and using a half quart every three tanks of gas. I changed back to 'dino' oil a few weeks ago. The Beast no longer leaves spots on the garage floor and oil usage is 1/3rd or less from last year. My experience is probably because of the age of the bike, or not. Anyway, I will not use synthetic oil for any of my vehicles. The cost vs benefit is simply not worth it. This is my opinion and is offered as information to the great folks on this forum.

[greg_in_london]

Stir the pot all you like - I began using synthetic oils around 1990. I was despatching around London on an XJ550 and covering 500-1,000 miles per week plus weekend mileage. The battering the engine took in continual heavy traffic (not sitting in it, working a way at speed through bumper-bumper traffic - we change lanes here) meant that wise men changed their oil every thousand miles or very soon after. By that time you could feel the drag on the gear change. Changing to Shell Gemini meant doubling the oil change intervals, so in quiet periods it might be a whole month before the oil needed changing. I found it helped (and cheap oil did not !) (I still have the xj550, but it's a bit like Trigger's broom)

 

I wouldn't argue with the idea that more expensive oils have more additives which take longer to be used up, so it's hard to judge what benefit is due to base oil and which to the additive.

 

Nowadays I can change my oil as a precaution and can stay away from the very heavy traffic, so my engines get an easier time. I think I've had good results with diesel oil, but I don't take it to the limit so I'm not sure. I'm not convinced that 10W-40 viscosity breaks down any more than 20W-50, 10W-60 or any other grade. Thicker oils will give more protection, but cause more drag and heat build up, lighter oils will give good service on lighter used engines with close tolerances. For cold starting I've been using a synthetic 5W-40 this winter in my Tenere and it doesn't hurt.

 

Anyway, I'm rambling now. The clutch on my venture has always slipped at full throttle at 3000 revs but has become no worse over 10-15 yrs (many different oils used) and the clutches on other bikes (xj550, xj750, dr400, xtz660) never slip, also regardless of oil.