GaryZ Posted February 22, 2012 #1 Posted February 22, 2012 I searched the site for information on VR engine oil and came up with nothing! Where did this stuff go? I know I have seen many threads on this hot topic . . . Anyway, I have a question. The manual says to use; SAE 10-30 type SE when not operating above 60 degrees F SAE 20-40 type SE when not operating below 40 degrees F We get to operate from 10 to 110 in Oklahoma. What are you North Texas boys running?
Stache Posted February 22, 2012 #2 Posted February 22, 2012 Anyway, I have a question. The manual says to use; SAE 10-30 type SE when not operating above 60 degrees F SAE 20-40 type SE when not operating below 40 degrees F Oh BOY!!!!!! an oil question!!! Somebody get the soda-pop, I'll make the popcorn.... Here We Gooooooooooo....
utadventure Posted February 22, 2012 #3 Posted February 22, 2012 They must have slipped through the cracks....
MasterGuns Posted February 22, 2012 #4 Posted February 22, 2012 All the oil threads/posts was taking up 95% of the server space.....must have been deleted. :rotf: I searched the site for information on VR engine oil and came up with nothing! Where did this stuff go? I know I have seen many threads on this hot topic . . . Anyway, I have a question. The manual says to use; SAE 10-30 type SE when not operating above 60 degrees F SAE 20-40 type SE when not operating below 40 degrees F We get to operate from 10 to 110 in Oklahoma. What are you North Texas boys running?
MasterGuns Posted February 22, 2012 #5 Posted February 22, 2012 I've used 20/50 since 1982. Here in North Texas and everywhere else, including Japan. Hey Gary, BTW, do you still have that extra rear master cylinder and would you be willing to part with it. Someone else is in need.
muaymendez1 Posted February 22, 2012 #6 Posted February 22, 2012 Oh BOY!!!!!! an oil question!!! Somebody get the soda-pop, I'll make the popcorn.... Here We Gooooooooooo.... Hahaha you beat me to it. Sit back and watch the band width plumet.
GaryZ Posted February 22, 2012 Author #7 Posted February 22, 2012 I've used 20/50 since 1982. Here in North Texas and everywhere else, including Japan. Hey Gary, BTW, do you still have that extra rear master cylinder and would you be willing to part with it. Someone else is in need. I promised I would send it to you and have been lazy. I will get it off the engine and ship it this week . . . Thanks for the 20-50 input.
SilvrT Posted February 22, 2012 #8 Posted February 22, 2012 ... and don't forget to change that crush washer each and every time!
twigg Posted February 22, 2012 #9 Posted February 22, 2012 I use 15W40 Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil. Changed at 4000 miles and a new filter at 8000. Others are perfectly free to use whatever they want. By the way ... Using a regular straight grade, or multigrade car oil is perfectly fine to "get you home". Make sure it has no "friction modifiers" and change it within about 500 miles. It takes longer than that for the long-chain viscosity enhancers to become short-chain soup.
GaryZ Posted February 22, 2012 Author #10 Posted February 22, 2012 By the way ... Using a regular straight grade, or multigrade car oil is perfectly fine to "get you home". Make sure it has no "friction modifiers" and change it within about 500 miles. It takes longer than that for the long-chain viscosity enhancers to become short-chain soup. I have heard this "no friction modifiers" thing before. Never really paid attention on any of my bikes. I have always used 'car oil'. I looked for something about this on the oil jug . . . Nothing. Where do I find this?
twigg Posted February 22, 2012 #11 Posted February 22, 2012 I have heard this "no friction modifiers" thing before. Never really paid attention on any of my bikes. I have always used 'car oil'. I looked for something about this on the oil jug . . . Nothing. Where do I find this? It will be on the container. It will say something like "low friction", or "superslick" or some phrase that gives you a clue. They cause wet clutches to slip. The modern car multigrades are a base weight oil with added "viscosity enhancers" to make it multigrade. The pressure in a motorcycle gearbox rapidly chops those molecules down to size. The oil can lose a whole grade of viscosity in as few as 1000 miles ... not what we want. The Diesel Oils have to cope with much higher pressures, especially on the bottom end bearings, so they don't use the modifiers, they blend different weights to get the grade they want ... so, no problem. The key is the compression ratios ... In an average car there may be a compression ratio of 9 or 10:1 ... In a diesel engine it takes about 20:1 to ignite the fuel, so the explosion is more violent and the oil has to cope.
Yammer Dan Posted February 22, 2012 #12 Posted February 22, 2012 The seal on the back of the bottle. The lower half of the circle will be enpty if it does not have friction modifiers. If you compare them side by side at store you will see. Castrol car oil does not have friction modifiers. Been using it for over 45 yrs never had a oil related problem. I use 20/50 year round.
BradT Posted February 23, 2012 #13 Posted February 23, 2012 The lower half of the circle will be enpty if it does not have friction modifiers. If you compare them side by side at store you will see. Castrol car oil does not have friction modifiers. Been using it for over 45 yrs never had a oil related problem. I use 20/50 year round. I have no problem with Castrol oil and use 20W50 all year round. Castrol's 20W50 has no modifiers, most 20W50 oils do not. I Guess I am one of the Northern boys, just not in Texas. I just make sure I change it close to 3,000 miles or you can feel it. Personally I see no reason to use all that fancy oils and honestly believe it does more harm than good. Brad
twigg Posted February 23, 2012 #14 Posted February 23, 2012 I have no problem with Castrol oil and use 20W50 all year round. Castrol's 20W50 has no modifiers, most 20W50 oils do not. I Guess I am one of the Northern boys, just not in Texas. I just make sure I change it close to 3,000 miles or you can feel it. Personally I see no reason to use all that fancy oils and honestly believe it does more harm than good. Brad Car Motor Oil, or 20W50 Motorcycle Oil? Car motor oil may not have friction modifiers, but most of them have viscosity enhancers which are not good in our gearboxes.
Wanderer Posted February 23, 2012 #15 Posted February 23, 2012 Lucas Motorcycle semi-synthetic 10-40 http://www.lucasoil.com/images/products/C1D607B94DC28438CE05A760CD9F7AE5.gif $7.47@Walmart.
spear Posted February 23, 2012 #16 Posted February 23, 2012 GaryZ. You'll only get a thread in your engine oil if you strip your sump plug. (Sorry mate. Couldn't help myself.)
BobanVal Posted February 23, 2012 #17 Posted February 23, 2012 My favorite bookmarks on this subject. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html
muaymendez1 Posted February 23, 2012 #19 Posted February 23, 2012 I use crisco or Mazola,great tasting and fully organic
twigg Posted February 23, 2012 #20 Posted February 23, 2012 I use crisco or Mazola,great tasting and fully organic Bookmarking this in case he ever tries to sell a motorcycle :rotf:
KIC Posted February 23, 2012 #21 Posted February 23, 2012 My favorite bookmarks on this subject. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html Great link..thanks.. Learned more about oil in 30 minutes of reading than I knew after a zillion oil changes.. :happy65:
SilvrT Posted February 23, 2012 #22 Posted February 23, 2012 The first time I changed the oil on my RSMV, I could not easilly remove the filter so ... I drilled a hole thru it and stuck a screwdriver thru the hole and was able to twist the filter loose. In the meantime I had drained the oil into a pan which was below the bike. Put new filter on, filled the engine with oil, etc etc and then went to drain the old oil from the pan. This was a relatively new bike and this oil change was only the second one ... the PO had already done the 1st change at a dealer. To my horror, I found quite a lot of metal filings in the bottom of the drain pan. I was freaked!! ... thought I'd bought a screwed motorcycle ... I sweated over this for about 10 or 15 min ..... until I realized the metal filings came from me drilling the hole in the filter.... :rotfl:
Yammer Dan Posted February 23, 2012 #23 Posted February 23, 2012 Lucas Motorcycle semi-synthetic 10-40 http://www.lucasoil.com/images/products/C1D607B94DC28438CE05A760CD9F7AE5.gif $7.47@Walmart. CASTROL 20/50. About $2.50 qt. at Wally World.
GaryZ Posted February 23, 2012 Author #24 Posted February 23, 2012 CASTROL 20/50. About $2.50 qt. at Wally World. I checked the local Wal-Mart and found Castrol GTX 20-50 in a 5-qt jug for $15.97 I think this is what I will be using . . . Thanks Yammer!
bilko1 Posted February 23, 2012 #25 Posted February 23, 2012 I checked the local Wal-Mart and found Castrol GTX 20-50 in a 5-qt jug for $15.97 I think this is what I will be using . . . Thanks Yammer! I have been using Castrol GTX 20-50 since 89, in my 83 and have never found a clutch issue.
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