RedRider Posted February 20, 2012 #1 Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) While taking off my forks to get Progressive springs installed, I checked the bearings and found the lower cup showing wear/damage lines. Since I could feel the line with my fingernail, I believe it is time to replace these bearings (probably only the lower needs replaced, but I am replacing both while in there). I took the lower tree with the lower bearing cone (inner race) to the dealer along with my forks. They are doing the spring replacement since I do not have the proper tools to remove and install the seals. They are going to remove the bottom bearing for me. However, I am looking at a way to remove the bearing cups (outer races) from the neck. The shop manual says to use a long drift for the lower. Nothing in my tool chest comes close to fitting in there. I borrowed a tool from the dealer to remove the top cup. We will see tonight if it will work. My questions is: What do you use to remove the lower cup in the steering head tube? RR Edited February 21, 2012 by RedRider
muaymendez1 Posted February 20, 2012 #2 Posted February 20, 2012 Whats the milage on your ride.I wonder if its time to have a look at mine. Was the any feeling in riding thay made you think about looking at the bearings. My front end bottoms oit but I dont have the air suspension as you do.
twigg Posted February 20, 2012 #3 Posted February 20, 2012 Whats the milage on your ride.I wonder if its time to have a look at mine. Was the any feeling in riding thay made you think about looking at the bearings. My front end bottoms oit but I dont have the air suspension as you do. Bottoming out shouldn't happen except in extreme situations. The best front end mod is to fit Progressive springs with preload that suits your riding style and loading. If you do that you can dispense with the air system. A better fork brace would help too.
MiCarl Posted February 20, 2012 #4 Posted February 20, 2012 I've never done a 2nd gen, but I have a friend that did one. The race removing tool I lent him is like a piece of pipe that flares into 4 leaves on one end. It wouldn't get enough purchase to knock the bottom race out. He had the same problem with his drifts which he'd sharpened just for the job. He ended up using a Dremel to cut a slot across the race allowing it to come out easily. Another trick is to lay a bead of weld inside the race. Not only does it give you something to put the drift against, it tends to shrink the race just a bit when it cools.
RedRider Posted February 20, 2012 Author #5 Posted February 20, 2012 Whats the milage on your ride.I wonder if its time to have a look at mine. Was the any feeling in riding thay made you think about looking at the bearings. My front end bottoms oit but I dont have the air suspension as you do. Passed 100k miles last year. It was time to do the fork spring. Probably could survive with the current steering head bearings, but they were a little notchy and since I was already in there..... RR
twigg Posted February 20, 2012 #6 Posted February 20, 2012 Passed 100k miles last year. It was time to do the fork spring. Probably could survive with the current steering head bearings, but they were a little notchy and since I was already in there..... RR Is there enough of a lip to pull them out from the bottom?
muaymendez1 Posted February 21, 2012 #7 Posted February 21, 2012 Passed 100k miles last year. It was time to do the fork spring. Probably could survive with the current steering head bearings, but they were a little notchy and since I was already in there..... RR Wow I just hit 33k miles.I got a ways to go.Although would like to do something about bottoming out
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #8 Posted February 21, 2012 I was able to get the top one out with a drift. There is enough of the rear rib showing to get the drift on it. With the bottom one, not so much. I have a bag of ice (with liberal application of salt) on the ID of the lower bearing now. Will eat some supper and then go out and see if I can get it loose. RR
flb_78 Posted February 21, 2012 #9 Posted February 21, 2012 You could weld a washer inside the race and hit the washer with the punch/drift.
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #10 Posted February 21, 2012 Well, I don't have a welder, but I do have a Dremel with an abrasive cutting wheel. That finally did it. Have filled the overshoot slots with JB Weld and will smooth them out before reinstalling the new bearing. Only worried about the slot where the seal rides. It won't make any difference behind the bearing. The ice didn't loosen it enough to fall out. Didn't think it would, but it was worth a try. Also heated the outside with a hair dryer while the ice was on the inside race. No go. Dremel to the rescue. RR
Guest Posted February 21, 2012 #11 Posted February 21, 2012 I have removed the lower race with a long, slim drift. There is only a real small space in which to place the punch and if your using an older, slightly worn punch it will just slip off. I bought a new one for this and while it took a little work, after a few solid whacks with a small sledge it came out. This slot is located in 2 spots on opposite sides of the neck. Looks like you already removed the race. If you havent installed the new race yet there is a trick to installing that too, to make sure it seats properly. You can call me on my cell tomorrow, or up to midnight tonight and ill walk you through it. Its easier then trying to type it here. # is in my profile.
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #12 Posted February 21, 2012 Ruffy, I'll give you a call when I get ready to reinstall the bearings. They are still on order from the dealer (just ordered them yesterday) and my forks are being done. Likely won't be until this weekend that I get around to installing them. That said, if you will be around this evening, I may give you a call to discuss. Yes, and I tried the brand new drift at the two recess points. Either my drift was too big or the recess cutouts were too small. Could not get purchase enough to hit it. Before I reinstall the bearing I may Dremel out the recesses a bit to allow another bearing change at 200k miles. RR
twigg Posted February 21, 2012 #13 Posted February 21, 2012 Red will ya share the trick with us. I am getting ready to do that job too.
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #14 Posted February 21, 2012 There certainly was no trick. Pure brute force with the Dremel. In the service manual it shows a couple of recesses supposedly allowing access to the rear rib. However, I didn't have a drift that was skinny enough to get on it. Ruffy, would you please post a picture of the drift you used? Preferably next to a ruler or pencil for scale. Also, where did you get it? RR
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #15 Posted February 21, 2012 Once I chat with Ruffy I will write up the reinstallation of the bearings. RR
Guest Posted February 21, 2012 #16 Posted February 21, 2012 Call me tonight because after tomorrow ill be in the hospital for several days and with the pills ill be taking what I may tell you then may not be what you hear coming out of my mouth......The drift that I used had a fairly small round tip on it. Less than a 1/4" I think. Biggest thing is to make sure its surface is flat, with no rounded ends. I used the old race to "press" in the new race. The top race sits flush while the lower race should have about a 1/8" reveal. I made my own tool to install the races out of a long bolt and thick washers.
wes0778 Posted February 21, 2012 #17 Posted February 21, 2012 I've never made THIS bearing replacement repair, but I wonder if the old "race in dry ice overnight" trick would let the race just slip into place?
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #18 Posted February 21, 2012 Call me tonight because after tomorrow ill be in the hospital for several days and with the pills ill be taking what I may tell you then may not be what you hear coming out of my mouth......The drift that I used had a fairly small round tip on it. Less than a 1/4" I think. Biggest thing is to make sure its surface is flat, with no rounded ends. I used the old race to "press" in the new race. The top race sits flush while the lower race should have about a 1/8" reveal. I made my own tool to install the races out of a long bolt and thick washers. I was also going to use the long threaded rod and come washers to press the cups back into the neck. What time is a good time to call? RR
RedRider Posted February 21, 2012 Author #19 Posted February 21, 2012 I've never made THIS bearing replacement repair, but I wonder if the old "race in dry ice overnight" trick would let the race just slip into place? I intend to at least put them in the freezer overnight. Not sure where to get dry ice around here anymore. Good idea though. RR
Guest Posted February 21, 2012 #20 Posted February 21, 2012 You can call me anytime. Im just sitting around doing nothing useful, at least thats what my wife says...... And the freezer overnight is one of my suggestions but it wont shrink enough to just slip in there. It still needs some persuasion.
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