bike wil not start

[icemonster]

Hi guys,

 

i have a 1300 from 1990 and when i try to start it, it won't turn over. i have checkt the battery and need to by replaced (broken). when i try to jump start it whit an external battery the cables come very hot and smoking, but still the starter will only turn once or twice and very havy and slow.

 

any ideas before i go shopping?

 

thnx, Ice

[twigg]

Hi guys,

 

i have a 1300 from 1990 and when i try to start it, it won't turn over. i have checkt the battery and need to by replaced (broken). when i try to jump start it whit an external battery the cables come very hot and smoking, but still the starter will only turn once or twice and very havy and slow.

 

any ideas before i go shopping?

 

thnx, Ice

 

Is this "new to you"?

 

First .. quit trying to start it.

 

Remove the plugs and the timing cover (easy), then try to turn the motor, in neutral, with a wrench on the crank nut. It should turn easily and smoothly.

 

Cables getting hot like that suggest either a stalled out starter motor, or one where the resistance is too high (causing the power draw as it tries to turn)

 

It will need to come off, be cleaned up and have the poor grounding seen to .... The issue MAY be simply a bad ground anyway, so check the ground on the motor, and right back to the battery.

 

If the bike hasn't run in a while, there is a whole bunch of stuff you should do before trying to start it.

[icemonster]

thnx M8,

 

it started before i repaired the exhaust pipes. i did tryded every day and let it run until the temps when up. i have changed the cooling fluid, cleaned out the radiator, changed the gaskets on the exhaust, and cleaned all the chroom.

 

when i fild up the battery whit distilled water, the problems begain.

 

i now i have to change the battery, but still....

[twigg]

thnx M8,

 

it started before i repaired the exhaust pipes. i did tryded every day and let it run until the temps when up. i have changed the cooling fluid, cleaned out the radiator, changed the gaskets on the exhaust, and cleaned all the chroom.

 

when i fild up the battery whit distilled water, the problems begain.

 

i now i have to change the battery, but still....

 

So it sounds like the starter is simply drawing too much current trying to turn.

 

The starters have very poor internal grounding, which could be the problem, but there is also the engine ground back to the battery, and the hot side of the starter cable. Both are marginal even wen in perfect condition.

 

I would check those two first, and go from there.

[friesman]

I would disconnect the battery and take it somewhere to get tested, I am wondering if the battery has shorted out.

I am also worried that you may have damaged something else by jump starting if you saw smoke and got lots of heat....

 

Brian

[icemonster]

I would disconnect the battery and take it somewhere to get tested, I am wondering if the battery has shorted out.

I am also worried that you may have damaged something else by jump starting if you saw smoke and got lots of heat....

 

Brian

 

the smoke came from the jumping cables where the clamp and cable are connected.

 

i think it is the starter. bad grounding or something. i just have it for a few weeks and could not ride it because of bad whether issu.

 

tommorow after work i look in to it and report back.

 

thnx M8's

 

Ice:fingers-crossed-emo

[icemonster]

PS; i want to pay the membership fee, but have no pay -pal; is there any other way???

 

thnx, Ice

[greg_in_london]

Hmmmm - as a random thought - just check what the resistance is from the starter motor solenoid (starter motor connection) to earth. If you caught it (the power feed to the starter motor) when refitting the exhaust then you would get a massive power drain, but only when you press the starter motor and also jumpleads would get very hot, as extra current would flow when you press the starter.

 

We're all presupposing that you have reasonably good jumpleads - I've bought very lightweight ones for about a fiver before and they just cannot carry enough current to turn over a fair sized engine, so the leads get hot and the bike doesn't start.

[twigg]

PS; i want to pay the membership fee, but have no pay -pal; is there any other way???

 

thnx, Ice

 

Are you able to send a PM?

 

A message to Freebird should get that resolved.

[KarlS]

I'd replace the battery before doing anything else, a shorted battery can cause the heat and smoking cables when trying to jump it.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Ivan,

Welcome to VR.ORG, You have found a home for all of the questions you can have about your First Gen. VR. First things first, replace that battery, and clean up all of the connections to the battery, the starter motor, and the battery ground cable. Then if the bike won't start, drop back by, and we will give you another list of things to check.

Earl

[Yammer Dan]

What Earl said. Clean them all good. Make sure battery is good and fully charged.

 

AND WELCOME!! Don will fix you up. :RED::wel_ani2Wa:

[Freebird]

I agree. I would be that the battery is shorted and would replace it before trying anything else. You said it was cracked so you are going to have to replace it anyway.

[icemonster]

thnx for the warm welcome guys,

 

i inspected the battery today and it was not leaking. cleaned it firmly whit distilled water and filled it back up whit acid for batterys. put it on the charger for 1 hour, slow charge, and after one hour i checked the voltage whitout the charger and see is holding nearly 13Volt. checked back after 1 hour and had 12,7Volt. i think its looking good and put her back on the charger for tonight. tommorow morning i will let her stand alone for the day and will see what it give me in the evening.

 

i will let you now what i have than.

 

cya, Ice

[twigg]

thnx for the warm welcome guys,

 

i inspected the battery today and it was not leaking. cleaned it firmly whit distilled water and filled it back up whit acid for batterys. put it on the charger for 1 hour, slow charge, and after one hour i checked the voltage whitout the charger and see is holding nearly 13Volt. checked back after 1 hour and had 12,7Volt. i think its looking good and put her back on the charger for tonight. tommorow morning i will let her stand alone for the day and will see what it give me in the evening.

 

i will let you now what i have than.

 

cya, Ice

 

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by this.

 

It is not worth messing about with old lead/acid batteries. By all means top-up the levels (with distilled water), if they are a little low .... but usually, the fastest and easiest route to success is to simply replace it.

[Yammer Dan]

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by this.

 

It is not worth messing about with old lead/acid batteries. By all means top-up the levels (with distilled water), if they are a little low .... but usually, the fastest and easiest route to success is to simply replace it.

 

 

The AGM battery Skydoc sells on here will make you say

 

"Why didn't I order this thing sooner!!"

 

Cured my slow starts and my sometimes not wanting to start at all when hot.

[icemonster]

i now, but the acid cost is 8€, a new battery 125€. if i loose, at least i gived a change, and won't be sorry later if i didnt.

 

its more easyer to by than to fix things, i like to fix things. thats why i am a mechanic for more than 30 years now.

 

Ice

[Snaggletooth]

I'm all the way for the DEKA AGM's but just noticing where I lives he might have a bit of a challenge getting an American made battey over to him in an affordable manner.

 

But with that said, looking at what Ice had said, the battery would be a prime concern for a starting point. These bike loves their juice and a weak battery can raise all kinds of other issues.

 

My interest would be in the starter motor itself. Use a battery jumper cable set and hook the ground to the frame or body of the starter and then TAP the positive cable to the cable mounting stud on the starter itself. If it spins freely then the starter may be ok.

 

If the starter does not respond well then my suggestion would be to search out a 4 brush starter as a replacement. That will cure many of the 1st gen starting issues all by itself such as starter drag and the "Hot Start" problems so common on these older bikes.

 

Mike

[twigg]

Europe has great motorcycle batteries too

[icemonster]

not sutch a bad idea...... i am gone go for the starter test whit jumper cables and see where it takes me.

 

let you guys now tomorrow.

 

nightynight guys,

 

Ice

[icemonster]

Hi all,

 

put the battery back in, 1 push on the starter button............very nice sound... i think i am in love.....

 

just hope tommorow see will not let me down.....and if so, i will get her a brand new powerfull battery.

 

have to check the rear brakes do, changed the oil but they still feel a bit spongee.

 

going to finish her up and if i got some time left, i take her out for a spin.

 

cya later guys...

[utadventure]

Hi all,

 

have to check the rear brakes do, changed the oil but they still feel a bit spongee.

 

 

Glad you got her fired up and out for a ride!!

 

When you changed the fluid in the rear brakes, did you bleed the rear brake, front left brake and the valve up by the steering head? That makes a huge difference.

 

Dave

[Snaggletooth]

Glad you got her fired up and out for a ride!!

 

When you changed the fluid in the rear brakes, did you bleed the rear brake, front left brake and the valve up by the steering head? That makes a huge difference.

 

Dave

 

 

Yep, Linked brakes can be a bit tricky to bleed.

 

What works best for me is rear first, then the metering valve at the rear of the tripe tree and then the front left brake last.

 

With the metering valve at the highest point in the system air does tend to accumulate there. If there is any air in that line you will always feel a bit squishy.

 

Remember to keep the rear master filled during the process but make sure it is not overfilled when done. The fluid can heat up and expand and cause the rear brake to drag or even lock up. Make sure to take 8mm wrench with you on the first test ride to bleed off a a little bit of fluid if needed.

 

When the day comes to do a big change to the bike swapping all the brake and clutch lines to SS is the way to go.

 

Mike

[RedRider]

FYI - If you are jumping the bike from a car/truck, make sure the car/truck is not running at the time. The amperage put out by the car/truck alternator is substantially higher than most motorcycles can handle.

 

RR

[icemonster]

hi guys,

 

thnx for the replay on the brakes do..... i think i forgot the upper line, am going to do it first thing tommorow.

 

cya, Ice