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Posted

HELP!......'07 RSTD & bought a new battery exactly one year ago. Problem now is it won't hold the charge. I get out for a short 30minute ride then go to restart it, & it's a gamble if there's enough juice to kick it over or not. By the time I get it home, there's not enough there to turn it over, so I charge it back up to go again.

With the battery only a year old, what are my chances of defective battery @ this time?...or could it be the charging system. Is there a way to check?

 

Bobby

Posted

Simplest check.... volt meter on the battery. A fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts DC. With the bike running (2000 rpm or so) you should be reading between 13.0-13.5 volts DC. If you don't get 13.0 + something is wrong. If you do, leave it hooked up, if you can, and go for a short ride and see if it maintains.

 

13 - 13.5 - Probably your battery

above or below - Probably your regulator/rectifyer or stator.

 

Dave

:080402gudl_prv:

Posted

Simple way to test a battery/charging system;

 

1) Measure the voltage of the battery without the engine running:

12.5V = good battery ----

 

2) Measure the voltage of the battery with the engine running above 1500 rpm:

13.5 to 14.5V = good ---- same voltage as above says the charging system has failed

 

3) Measure the voltage 'drop' when the starter is cranking:

Above 9.5V = good ---- less means the battery is failing to hold a load

 

On modern vehicles there is a dash voltmeter that makes these tests easy. A good charging system will register in the 'green' when the engine is running and a red mark generally shows the good level for the battery when the engine is not running. A battery can fail by not keeping a charge or it will not maintain a load.

 

My 2 cents . . . :cool10:

Posted

I had to replace my stator 2 years ago. As a result of this I added a "Battery Bug" to my handle bars so that I can monitor the battery, charging system and battery life in real time. Basically the Battery Bug gives you the actual readings instantly 24/7. If they don't match up with the correct numbers shown in the prior posts you know something is wrong and which component is likely at fault. :2cents:

:080402gudl_prv:

Posted

Also make sure that when you do the running test, that you have everything powered up that would be powered up while riding. It is possible to have so much stuff turned on that the charger can not keep up with the load and the battery will run down while riding.

 

Heated gear, driving and or fog lights,etc all take a lot of power. They can over power the charging system. These bikes do not have a lot of spare power for accessories.

Posted
HELP!......'07 RSTD & bought a new battery exactly one year ago. Problem now is it won't hold the charge. I get out for a short 30minute ride then go to restart it, & it's a gamble if there's enough juice to kick it over or not. By the time I get it home, there's not enough there to turn it over, so I charge it back up to go again.

With the battery only a year old, what are my chances of defective battery @ this time?...or could it be the charging system. Is there a way to check?

 

Bobby

 

My personal opinion is youse gots a bad battery, or a bad rectifyer... or both. I ran my '99 on DEKA battery power only for two and a half days, and about 1200 miles, before it finally croaked. Replaced it with a new wet cell...the only thing I could find in a one horse town... and it didn't last a day and 150 miles total. Finally swapped out the rectifyer and that solved the problem. BTW recharged the DEKA, and it's in the bike again and still going strong. I'm sold on DEKA's....:thumbsup2:

Posted

We use to simply unhook the neg side of the battery while the vehicle was running. If it died it was the charging system. If it stayed running it was the battery. I do not know if that still works of these machines ... It used to be what we did, I have not had that problem in years, It is probably not very electronics friendly.:detective:

Posted

Did not state what kind of battery, new AGM or lead acid.

If lead acid, possible you are low on electrolyte-simple fix adding ONLY distilled water to the full line of each cell. Then need to check charging system while running as described above checking for OVER charging, greater than 15v.

 

I also did have 1 AGM baattery fail due to over charging (my error-placed on high rate charger) but the actual battery swelled up like a basket ball. Other than my error, I also am sold on AGM types.

Posted

I like the idea of adding a voltmeter to my 05 venture. I would like to add something small and visible from the riding position. Has anyone added one and ofso where did you get it and where and how did you mount it? Thnks Rob

Posted

not distracting at all, and it sits down low in that perfect place. just thinking I think at night it gets a little dimmer if I remember right. but other wise it doesn't bother me.

just use a little 3M tape on the back sde and your set .

you can get the base in chrome or black

Posted

Here is one I just found on Amazon

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-4219-Chrome-Battery-Gauge/dp/B000GU5WO8]Amazon.com: Kuryakyn 4219 Chrome L.E.D. Battery Gauge: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Jd4mVqPNL.@@AMEPARAM@@51Jd4mVqPNL[/ame]

the black might be cheaper. I think I paid about this much thru the dealer.

Posted
Here is one I just found on Amazon

Amazon.com: Kuryakyn 4219 Chrome L.E.D. Battery Gauge: Automotive

the black might be cheaper. I think I paid about this much thru the dealer.

I need to go to the dealer this Saturday to pick up the chrome piece between the windshield and fairing that I ordered last week. I will see how much there. He gives me a 10% discount. I like the idea where you mounted yours. Not sure about chrome or black yet though. Thanks again for the help.

Posted

Well, the results are in. When I read the battery after charging again:

 

Without starting, it reads 12.5

With it running @ about 2000 rpm, I get 13.1 to 13.8

I disconnect the negative while running, it keeps on running.

 

Now the question is, do I get a new gel battery, or regular battery?

 

Thank you to all my "gearhead friends",...that replied. You guys are awesome .

 

Bobby

Posted

Try a new DEKA battery first, and check the charge rate. If it still reads low toss in another rectifyer.... You should be getting 14-14.3vdc above 2000rpm.

Posted
Being over here in Windsor, Ontario Cdn. would anybody know where I can get one & approx. $$$

 

The ones I got in Alberta & in Victoria Bc were $170 + tax. The 5 yr old battery in the 83 didn't go when in the states, where replacing it would of been almost half the cost, of up here.

 

:bang head::canada:

Posted
Well, the results are in. When I read the battery after charging again:

 

Without starting, it reads 12.5

With it running @ about 2000 rpm, I get 13.1 to 13.8

I disconnect the negative while running, it keeps on running.

 

Now the question is, do I get a new gel battery, or regular battery?

 

Thank you to all my "gearhead friends",...that replied. You guys are awesome .

 

Bobby

 

What brand of battery did you install a year ago? cables clean and tight at both ends?

 

Im going on 6 years with the OE Yuasa battery. They are sealed maintenance free types. The trick to these is after you add the acid pack let it stand for an hour and install the caps and then fully charge it before installing it. Most people don't do this and most dealers don't do this either. I always service them myself. When this one goes I'll get another Yuasa.

 

I have personally had issues getting an AGM to take a charge if the battery discharges to 10 volts or less.

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