Rebuilding and Modding my 83

[Flyinfool]

My experience has been that most solvents strong enough to get thru the paint will find the plastic to be no challenge to dissolve.

 

I would fire up the DA sander.

[icebrrg3rd]

Well, last weekend I got some free time to work on the bike. Actually, all I did was dis-assembled the parts engine. It came apart fairly easy, the only issue I had was the retainer screws. How in the h-e-double-hockey-sticks do you get them out? I know from reading the manual that they're loc-tited in, and I applied a little heat, but got nowhere fast. Here are the screws:

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/icebrrg3rd/Stripped%20Venture/Retainer.jpg

 

Well, since it was the donor motor, and I had already stripped 2 of the 3 screws, I just drilled one out. But I need to do it the right way on my engine, so any tips or tricks on how to get them out w/o much carnage would be appreciated.

 

Here's more pics of the tear-down:

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/icebrrg3rd/Stripped%20Venture/Engine01.jpg

 

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/icebrrg3rd/Stripped%20Venture/UpperEngine01.jpg

 

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/icebrrg3rd/Stripped%20Venture/LowerEngine01.jpg

 

Played with the shifter just to see how the gears interacted. Now I just got to remove my engine and do the swap.

 

-Andrew

[twigg]

My experience has been that most solvents strong enough to get thru the paint will find the plastic to be no challenge to dissolve.

 

I would fire up the DA sander.

 

What Jeff said!

 

The plastic is ABS, not glassfibre. It does not play well with solvents.

 

Sand them smooth, and go easy.

[dingy]

Well, last weekend I got some free time to work on the bike. Actually, all I did was dis-assembled the parts engine. It came apart fairly easy, the only issue I had was the retainer screws. How in the h-e-double-hockey-sticks do you get them out? I know from reading the manual that they're loc-tited in, and I applied a little heat, but got nowhere fast. Here are the screws:

 

Well, since it was the donor motor, and I had already stripped 2 of the 3 screws, I just drilled one out. But I need to do it the right way on my engine, so any tips or tricks on how to get them out w/o much carnage would be appreciated.

 

Impact driver with tight fitting bit in it. And a good size hammer. Hit once and hard, as I use to say.

 

Also heating screw a little, not cherry red, may help break loctite bond.

 

Gary

[bongobobny]

Also make sure you are using the metric version Phillips screwdriver. You need the JAS type. You can get the bits along with an impact driver from Harbor Freight I believe...

[icebrrg3rd]

Well, I'm up in the middle of the night, my arms are aching! I started Sat by doing some chores off my Honey-Do list so I could get the rest of the weekend to work on my bike. So by the afternoon I started removing the motor. Got it out with minimal issues.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/icebrrg3rd/Stripped%20Venture/EngineOut02.jpg

 

Tore the motor apart. Thanks for the impact driver tip, broke those screws loose with one tap. Once I split the case, I checked it over. Hmmm, the center crankshaft bearings stayed on the crank instead of in their half like the donor motor did. pulled one off, noticed there was galling. Great. The journal didn't appear to be damaged, tho. Pulled the other bearing, flakes of metal embedded in it. Even better.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/icebrrg3rd/Stripped%20Venture/Bearings.jpg

 

So now the decision has to be made. Check out the journal for damage & order new bearings, or use the donor motor but swap in my heads as the donor's heads have corrosion by the valves. Donor is a '88 1300 and mine is a '83 1200. So much for a simple swap-over.

 

-Andrew

[icebrrg3rd]

Some notes about the dis-assembly:

-Collector is broken. Has a nice rattle, and the left side flanges (cyl #2) are broken off. Plus, the rear clamps weren't even tightened to the downpipes-one was even missing it's bolt. Also, the mounting flange was completely broken off, no wonder the bike rattles so much and was so loud. Wonder if there's a Marks collector in my future.

-The motor has been apart before. It got re-assembled using red gasket maker instead of Yamabond. I think he used the whole tube as there was so much squeezed out. There was red stuff everywhere, including the oil pickup strainer. It was also in a lot of the machined oil passages too. Wonder if that's what caused the bearings issues.

-I lucked out, I have a metal water pump impeller! Gotta look at something positive.

-I made a small wooden cart for the motor, next time I need to make it longer on one side. As I was turning the motor upside down, it started leaking more oil. I took my attention off the precariously balanced motor and it jumped off the cart, taking a bite out of my finger as I grabbed for it. Great, now she's tasted human blood, she'll want more...

 

-Andrew

[OrlinEngh]

If you need a collector give me a call I have a couple packed away.

Orlin

[icebrrg3rd]

Well, it's been a while, I've worked on the bike on & off over the last few months, but really hit it hard this weekend. Kids were gone with grandpa, and other than grilling some burgers & going to a movie (MIB3) with the wife, I was in the garage early every day and out til the wee hours. As of last night, the engine is back in where it belongs, and all I have to do is the exhaust and a few other tidbits. Once running, then I'll put the plastic back on. I took a few pics, but was too busy / greasy to take many.

 

Some misc things I did (other than the engine/transmission swap) was adding grease fittings on the suspension arms, plus the kickstand bolt mod. I still have to get the tires mounted and the new TCI installed.

 

I would have liked to do the body work / repairs I was planning, but I have a trip Sat that I need the bike running, so that will have to wait. Duct tape is my friend for now.

 

Pics have to be downloaded from the camera, but I got finish work to do on the bike so I won't be fiddling around posting pics til later this week. Or next.

 

-Andrew

[Flyinfool]

So since you need the bike running for this weekend, does that mean you are coming to MD? I'm leaving here early Friday morning.

 

I just had my tires mounted at "The Shop" in Milwaukee. $18.50 ea mounted and balanced. Total bill with new valves, tire disposal fees, tax, etc. was $51. I thought that was reasonable enough. Call ahead, early, I just got the last valves he had in stock. They did the mounting while I waited.

[icebrrg3rd]

I might just take it to "The Shop", as I'm running out of time. I was going to try and change them myself, but my list of things I still have to do to the bike is kinda long. I didn't get the bike started last night, was monkeying around with the exhaust and some other stuff. I wasn't going to crank it over at midnight. Once I get home tonight I'm loading it up with fluids and cranking her over.

 

Wish I was going to MD, but I had made prior arrangements. Maybe in a year or two I'll make it out there.

 

Here's a teaser pic from this last weekend.

 

-Andrew

[Flyinfool]

DON'T take the whole bike to "The Shop" for tires unless you call first for a quote.

They wanted $200 to take the wheels off the bike.

 

I just took in the wheels and my tires to have them do the mounting and balance.

[icebrrg3rd]

I never take whole vehicles in for tires, even my cars. I don't trust them with impact guns and lug nuts. So yes, I'd only take in the wheels & tires, thanks for the heads up on wheel from bike removal cost tho. The back axle is only slid into place as I removed the pumpkin to grease the drive shaft splines, and I put it back on just so I could roll the bike around the garage. The front will be off in a heartbeat. I think I will take them in, I'll call tonight for an appointment tomorrow evening.

 

-Andrew

[dingy]

I might just take it to "The Shop", as I'm running out of time. I was going to try and change them myself, but my list of things I still have to do to the bike is kinda long. I didn't get the bike started last night, was monkeying around with the exhaust and some other stuff. I wasn't going to crank it over at midnight. Once I get home tonight I'm loading it up with fluids and cranking her over.

 

Wish I was going to MD, but I had made prior arrangements. Maybe in a year or two I'll make it out there.

 

Here's a teaser pic from this last weekend.

 

-Andrew

 

Very nice looking motor !!

 

 

It will go in much easier if the swing arm is removed, trust me on this.

 

Gary

[icebrrg3rd]

How hard is it to remove the rear swing arm? I pulled the drive shaft out, and it didn't seem to be too hard getting the motor back in with the swing arm there. Either way, it's back in. Unfortunately, I cheaped out and didn't buy gaskets, so when I assembled the covers the starter gears got pinched, which I didn't find out til I tried starting it last night. D'oh. Then I remembered reading about it here somewhere that you need the thickness of the gasket to get proper clearance. Since it was late, I just pulled the cover and ground the sides of the gears to get that clearance. Now I just have to wait til tonight to try starting it up again.

 

I also de-linked the brakes, but I couldn't afford new line yet so I reused some old line. The front work great, but the rear clamps but doesn't release. I've cleared the pinhole, but it seems to not want to release. I put a bolt to block off the front line and removed the proportioner valve, so the rear line is connected directly to the cylinder. Is that the correct way to do it?

 

Here's one of the last pics I took of it, it's further along but I wasn't taking pics due to time constraints and very greasy hands.

 

-Andrew

[Flyinfool]

How hard is it to remove the rear swing arm? I pulled the drive shaft out, and it didn't seem to be too hard getting the motor back in with the swing arm there. Either way, it's back in. Unfortunately, I cheaped out and didn't buy gaskets, so when I assembled the covers the starter gears got pinched, which I didn't find out til I tried starting it last night. D'oh. Then I remembered reading about it here somewhere that you need the thickness of the gasket to get proper clearance. Since it was late, I just pulled the cover and ground the sides of the gears to get that clearance. Now I just have to wait til tonight to try starting it up again.

 

I also de-linked the brakes, but I couldn't afford new line yet so I reused some old line. The front work great, but the rear clamps but doesn't release. I've cleared the pinhole, but it seems to not want to release. I put a bolt to block off the front line and removed the proportioner valve, so the rear line is connected directly to the cylinder. Is that the correct way to do it?

 

Here's one of the last pics I took of it, it's further along but I wasn't taking pics due to time constraints and very greasy hands.

 

-Andrew

 

To bad, I have a spare set of gaskets for all 3 side covers just sitting there on the kitchen table.

I'm not sure if the missing gasket thickness or grinding the gears will cause any other issues later on.

[ActionJax]

I am loving the look of that engine! Can't wait to see it all back together. I just wich I had a bit more mech knowledge, cuz I'd sure like to do something similar for mine. Keep it up and keep those pics coming.

[icebrrg3rd]

Well, IT'S ALIVE!!!! It's running, and sounds great. I'm going to bed now...

 

-Andrew

[DragonRider]

Now your making me wish I had done the same to my engine, yours looks fantastic, I only painted the side engine casings, I should have had them powder coated, but that didnt pop into this old brain till I was almost finished.........Good job, I know the feeling of getting it running again, mine sat for over a year, until a friend at work got me motivated and helped me 3 weekends straight, couldnt have done it without him..........He is a member and co-worker also..............

 

Congratulations on a job well done!!!!:clap2::thumbsup:

 

 

 

I might just take it to "The Shop", as I'm running out of time. I was going to try and change them myself, but my list of things I still have to do to the bike is kinda long. I didn't get the bike started last night, was monkeying around with the exhaust and some other stuff. I wasn't going to crank it over at midnight. Once I get home tonight I'm loading it up with fluids and cranking her over.

 

Wish I was going to MD, but I had made prior arrangements. Maybe in a year or two I'll make it out there.

 

Here's a teaser pic from this last weekend.

 

-Andrew

[icebrrg3rd]

Well, here's the latest update. Got it running yesterday, I have the new TCI installed, got the rear brake working, tuned the carbs up (might need to adjust them a little more) want to run some seafoam thru it, then change out the plugs & oil & add antifreeze (running straight water right now, just in case it leaked). Taking the tires in to get mounted, and will be putting the plastic back on. Then hitting the road Sat.

 

It sounds nice & idles really well. Only took it for a quick spin up & down the alley in the rain, didn't go far/fast. Here's another pic, but of the other side. The wetness under it is from driving in the rain, it doesn't seem to be leaking (knock on wood).

 

-Andrew

[icebrrg3rd]

Well, I got it back together and made my trip on Sat with minimal issues. Only problem is the hot start issue. I have run a thicker wire to the starter, connected the internal parts with a ground wire, and ran a jumper wire to the main battery ground. But still when hot it turns over slowly. I know the newer starters have solved other people's starting issues, but could it also be the solenoid? Mine is crummy looking, as the exterior is corroded like it has seen much water. I just don't want to throw parts at it and hope to fix it, I want it fixed fo as cheap as possible.

 

When I get a chance I'll update this thread with more pics.

 

-Andrew

[friesman]

looks like youve got the majority of the issues fixed, youve done a great job..

 

Brian

[Flyinfool]

Well, I got it back together and made my trip on Sat with minimal issues. Only problem is the hot start issue. I have run a thicker wire to the starter, connected the internal parts with a ground wire, and ran a jumper wire to the main battery ground. But still when hot it turns over slowly. I know the newer starters have solved other people's starting issues, but could it also be the solenoid? Mine is crummy looking, as the exterior is corroded like it has seen much water. I just don't want to throw parts at it and hope to fix it, I want it fixed fo as cheap as possible.

 

When I get a chance I'll update this thread with more pics.

 

-Andrew

 

Put a volt meter from the pos terminal of the battery to the power terminal of the starter while cranking. It should show very close to zero volts. any voltage shown is power that is not reaching the starter. Do the same for the neg battery term to the starter motor case. Should also be very near zero. If either one of these tests show voltage then start tracking it down with the voltmeter by putting it across each segment of the system till you find the dirty or bad connection or wire or component. This way you do not spend money till you are sure of the bad part.

[icebrrg3rd]

Thanks, I've give that a try when I get home tonight, as it'll be nice & hot and will probably have that issue pop up again.

 

I also have another issue that luckily didn't show on the trip, but I was experiencing last year and it just happened this morning on my way to work. I think it's related to the kill switch, as that is what seems to happen. I will be driving along and it will completely cut out, but it leaves the dash & lights on. Trying to drop the clutch while still rolling won't start it, neither will the starter switch. Not sure what "fixes" it as I usually wiggle wires & flip the kill switch back & forth, then all of a sudden I can start it again.

 

It does look like some oil is seeping out from the oil pan, will have to drop it and seal it again. It looks like coolant is coming out from the o-rings on the plastic elbow too, will get new o-rings for that. But it seems to be fairly buttoned up otherwise. I have a few loose ends to touch up, but it's nice riding the Venture again.

 

-Andrew

[Flyinfool]

Thanks, I've give that a try when I get home tonight, as it'll be nice & hot and will probably have that issue pop up again.

 

I also have another issue that luckily didn't show on the trip, but I was experiencing last year and it just happened this morning on my way to work. I think it's related to the kill switch, as that is what seems to happen. I will be driving along and it will completely cut out, but it leaves the dash & lights on. Trying to drop the clutch while still rolling won't start it, neither will the starter switch. Not sure what "fixes" it as I usually wiggle wires & flip the kill switch back & forth, then all of a sudden I can start it again.

 

It does look like some oil is seeping out from the oil pan, will have to drop it and seal it again. It looks like coolant is coming out from the o-rings on the plastic elbow too, will get new o-rings for that. But it seems to be fairly buttoned up otherwise. I have a few loose ends to touch up, but it's nice riding the Venture again.

 

-Andrew

 

There are a lot of things that can do that to you. The kill switch, the side stand switch, the side stand relay, tip over sensor, a bad fuse or fuse holder, any of the wires connecting any of these parts together.

 

Which wires are you wiggling to get it to run again?

 

More gymnastics with the volt meter are in order.