Front Fork Separation..

[Snaggletooth]

And I thought I'd throw this in as well. There have always been questions about breaking down the forks and how to get that 10mm Allen bolt at the bottom removed without it just spinning. As stated before that bolt is the retainer for the damper assembly. The only thing on top of that is sping pressure. Once the spring is removed there is nothing to hold the damper in place to keep it from spinning. So I thought a few pics for those that have not been inside the forks yet might help with how that is dealt with.

 

They 1st pic is the damper assemblies with all the parts in place. Keep in mind this is on the bench, not how they come out or go back in.

 

The bottom of the damper where that 10mm bolt in bottom of the fork leg is goes into it.

 

The inside of the top of the damper. You can see how it shaped in the ID. The nuts or the heads of the 5/8 both match this nicely.

 

Once the top is retained with what ever tool you chose the 10mm can be removed without the damper spinning.

 

Not to mention a MUST for reinstalling and tightening properly.

 

When you have all the parts of the damper on the bench inspect every one of them carefully. The three washers at the bottom of the damper are the most likely to be replaced with new and installed in the correct positions.

 

Mike

[KIC]

Thanks guys... I got the two 10mm bolts out. Used a piece of 1/2 inch PVC, a 2-inch 5/8 bolt with a nut screwed on all the way to the top and some epoxy. put epoxy on the bolt, screwed it into the PVC, lightly tightened the nut to the PVC and let her dry. Also glued a 1/2 PVC T onto the other end. The 10mm's came out like a charm. Now I'm trying to actually separate the upper and lowers.... that's not going so easy...

[KIC]

I was expecting the seals to pop out by using the fork slider as a slide hammer, but the bushes pulled straight through the seals and I needed a rethink.

 

At some point I also need to change the steering head bearings ... if only because they are a critical component, and old, but as of now the handling is fine except for very slow corners ... Like intersections when there is a little uncertainty in the steering. Once the speed picks up it tracks straight and true, even with no hands so I figure a fork brace would help there. I learned quickly that it hates to go through slow speed, tight turns with a trailing throttle, but the handling is much better if you actually "drive" through those turns. It's never going to be a sportsbike

 

I can't feel any play at all in the forks or the steering head, it just seems that the forks are not well braced, and weedy for the size of the bike. That must be a feature.

 

 

 

I chose to pull the whole front end and check the bearing as mine was very tight when I bought it. Almost laid it over on the test ride since I wasn't expecting it not to respond.

 

Anyways, the top bearings were hard as a rock. Wouldn't spin, dried grease packed in them. 10 minutes in mineral spirits, and they were like new. Tight and spin nicely. New grease ought to round them out. the bottom had grease and were spinning when they were pulled.

 

I think the bike will handle totally different when ( and if ) I get it back together..

[KIC]

I seem to be getting nowhere separating the upper and lower... am I missing something ? Can/will I damage something using the upper as a slide hammer?

 

HELP....I've fallen and I can't get up.....

[dingy]

Have you gotten the bottom screw out?

 

Do you have the spring retainer for the fork seal out?

 

If both are yes, then in my opinion, you can use the upper tube to slam the seal out of the lower tube housing.

 

Gary

[Rocket]

I seem to be getting nowhere separating the upper and lower... am I missing something ? Can/will I damage something using the upper as a slide hammer?

 

HELP....I've fallen and I can't get up.....

 

Yup, he missed the fork seal retainer spring, under the dust cover.

[MiCarl]

Once you have the retaining spring out you use the upper as a slide hammer to drive the bushing and seal out.

 

CAUTION: Do not slam the tube back down on your return stroke, you can damage the oil lock. Out = fast and hard, in = slow 'n easy.

[KIC]

Once you have the retaining spring out you use the upper as a slide hammer to drive the bushing and seal out.

 

CAUTION: Do not slam the tube back down on your return stroke, you can damage the oil lock. Out = fast and hard, in = slow 'n easy.

 

 

What is the oil lock and how do I know if it is damaged ?

 

Still haven't got them apart..but the area around the seal edge was kinda corroded, so I am letting some WD-40 work it's magic before I get physical with it again.

 

Thanks all for the constant help... it's going slow, but going.

 

Special thanks for the phone call Rocket.. that got me to the next step.....( of frustration)

[dingy]

What is the oil lock and how do I know if it is damaged ?

 

Still haven't got them apart..but the area around the seal edge was kinda corroded, so I am letting some WD-40 work it's magic before I get physical with it again.

 

Thanks all for the constant help... it's going slow, but going.

 

Special thanks for the phone call Rocket.. that got me to the next step.....( of frustration)

 

Oil lock is shown in green in attached CAD drawing of fork cut section.

 

It probably should be shown up against the inner fork tube (light blue tube).

 

If is scratched up or nicked it is damaged.

 

Gary

[Snaggletooth]

The old slider hammer method does the trick. Just have some rags handy when they come apart. Bet ya gonna find some extra oil.

[KIC]

Ok...got them apart. My friend with the 83 Venture stopped by and found me giving up. I was trying to slide them up towards me. He suggested that he hold the top part of the forks and I slide the bottom tubes down as the slide hammer... worked first time.

 

Found one of the little washer/bushing things broken and the oil stops pretty dinged up...probably from my original attempts. SO...... I will order new parts on Monday and start working on other repairs and stuff until they come in.

 

Thanks guys for helping me on this. I'm sure there will be more questions when the rebuilding time comes.

[Snaggletooth]

Yea! Progress!

 

Now if you're in the mood to spend money there are some Race Tech Gold Emulators on eBay right now.

 

 

:stirthepot:

 

I mean ya know....... as long as you're in there........

[MiCarl]

The old slider hammer method does the trick. Just have some rags handy when they come apart. Bet ya gonna find some extra oil.

 

When I'm doing forks in the shop I try to start Friday afternoon. Leaving the fork in the tree I open the bottom and get the caps off. Let them drain all weekend. Find a little less "extra oil" that way.

[KIC]

OMGTSFC..... That's kids speak for Oh My Gosh..Stealership's Freakin Crazy !!!!

 

Went to get a couple if new oil stops that got a little chingered up during the fork seperation. They wanted $53.00 EACH.... They also wanted 9.00 for the little round spring washer.

 

Is there a better source ????? Can I lightly sand the edge of the stop and reinstall ?

[dingy]

I am sure I have spare wave washers, I will check tonight & see what I have in the way of spare oil locks.

Gary

[MiCarl]

26H-23173-00-00

SPINDLE, taper Not Available

This is the piece the service manual calls the "oil lock". Not sure what your dealer was trying to sell, but Yamaha doesn't offer them anymore. Better hope DINGY can help you out.

 

The only damaged one I've ever seen (not from a Venture, but similar) was all bent up on the lip at the wide end. The narrower tapered ends are somewhat crudely machined. Could be yours isn't damaged. Pictures?

 

You can find the springs cheaper online, but shipping will push you above the stealer price.

[Prairiehammer]

Is the oil lock required to work properly (damaged) if the anti dive is rendered inoperable? It was my understanding that a functioning oil lock was only required if the EAND was desired. If EAND is disconnected then a functioning oil lock is moot?

[Snaggletooth]

From my understanding the three washers (two waves and the flat) are the critical part of the oil lock funtion. I would suppose if the upper face of the oil lock is broken or bent that would affect the function.

 

If the top edge of the oil lock is just chipped a bit I'd reuse it with new washers.

 

But I'm just going off the things I've read and been told over time.

 

Gary would have more info on that as he's been through these forks in detail.

 

Mike

[KIC]

Okay ..I went over to my Ducati riding friend who has a restoration shop. He sat me down with a sheet of glass ,600 sandpaper and a micro file. Had me lightly file the burrs of the edges and flat sand the top and bottom flat surface. They came out pretty good. They are the two silver pieces below .

I still need to replace the two wavy washers .

 

Sorry guys... I originally posted this from my phone and it wouldn't let me post the picture:

Edited February 7, 2012 by KIC

[dingy]

They are the two silver pieces below .

I still need to replace the two wavy washers .

 

 

I have the lock washers you need.

 

Gary

[KIC]

 

I have the lock washers you need.

 

Gary

 

 

[dingy]

 

Okay, I thought you rode a 1st gen, must have been wrong as slow as you are.

 

Key words here I have the washers you need.

 

In order for, you to have the washers you need, an address would be helpful.

 

Or I could post a picture of them, if that would help.

 

 

Gary

[KIC]

 

I have the lock washers you need.

 

Gary

 

 

Not slow just cautious.. you said you had them...never said I could have them... SOOooo... I was testing the water...

 

PM sent...

 

Thanks

[dingy]

Not slow just cautious.. you said you had them...never said I could have them... SOOooo... I was testing the water...

 

PM sent...

 

Thanks

 

Got PM,

 

Regular mail or small priority box, if I send priority it would be there by Friday. $5 priority, or free by snail mail.

 

Need a fork wrench while we are at it?

 

Gary

[KIC]

Got PM,

 

Regular mail or small priority box, if I send priority it would be there by Friday. $5 priority, or free by snail mail.

 

Need a fork wrench while we are at it?

 

Gary

 

I am now working out of town again so regular mail is fine. Fork wrench ? Are you talking about the triple tree nut wrench ? I bought one from....(you?) Off the forum. Is there a diffrent wrench ?

 

Thanks

Bill