91 VR Rear end inspection

[Mike Mercury]

Today during my ongoing 91 VR restoration project, after forks, electrical, coils, carbs., the rear end was my target and everything was peachy until I took out my rear wheel.

Surprise, a bunch of metal shavings fell out of the interior of drive, after a moment of panic(thinking of a shot drive), I started to look and clean, the dried out grease and more debris, but I turned my attention to my wheel bearing and got a handful of needles and more shavings.

 

I then took a good look at the spines because they crunched the needles to shavings.

 

After a good cleaning the drive splines seems ok, I guess?

 

Any comments or warnings would be appreciated.

 

Mike

[MiCarl]

I doubt they ever got into the splines. In any case, splines look good in the picture.

 

When you order that bearing you also need to order the part they call "collar". The "collar" is the inner race.

[jasonm.]

YES, that collar or race MUST be replaced too. I did not catch how many miles on the bike? FYI, that rear needle bearing is far stronger than a ball type bearing. But requires grease. What many do not know. That bearing can be greased at every tire change and should be. What you say? Yes, the needle bearing has the ability for coming out a mm or two. Then you take your finger and repeatedly try to get some high-temp water proof grease in the gap you just opening up toward the spacer. ALSO, put a lot of grease on the axle and splines. I replaced my needle bearing at 30k after damaging it when removing the ball bearing on the opposite side. Now it has about 50k on it and still tight when I got a new tire 2010...no radial play. Once you replace that bearing&collar along with a good amount of extra grease...you should be good. And grease the SHAFT splines that go into the universal. People say Honda "Moly60" from Honda 'cycle dealers is good for all splines including rear wheel hub.

Edited February 3, 2012 by jasonm.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Mike,

Boy, it's been one thing after another! The shavings looking pieces were once the bearing cage, the needles are actually case hardened steel, they break apart, but they can't get to the splines. The Honda Moly 60 is the Bomb for this kind of bearing. I have gotten a better price at a Honda Car Dealer for the Moly 60 than at a Bike Dealer. Not all Car Dealers carry it, but can order it. Coat the splines of the hub, and the splines on the drive shaft that go into the Ujoint as Jason suggested. You caught this just in time! The rear axle shaft is no longer available from Yamaha. I like to put a coat of grease on the axle shaft as well, it helps with the rust factor. (Bearing inner race) If I can help with the bearings, or the Moly 60, let me know.

Earl

[Mike Mercury]

Thanks for comments, by the way bike has 106000km, after taking a good look at drive, the unit is in good condition and I am satisfied, 83VR parts bike is now supplying the rear wheel with nearly new tire.

Looking at rear wheel removed from bike, the disc is huge and measured out at 320mm, 5mm thick, with an offset of about 9mm, I also found washers(shims?) when removing caliper and bracket, I took another look at caliper and found pads used evenly, so I guess it was a good set-up.

My question is, will this affect my R1 caliper conversion and what should be looking to to make this rotor work combined with new caliper.

 

Mike

[Mike Mercury]

Big question here, I changed my existing 91VR rear wheel with damaged bearings, for a straight swap, with my 83VR rear wheel with new tire and good and greased bearings, except for the plastic ring witch must be changed because bigger then 91, is there a problem installing on my drive?

 

Mike

[frankd]

I don't know if the drive spline fits the same on Mk 1 & Mk 2 Ventures, but I seem to remember that the distance between the rim sides (where it meets with the tire's beads) is thinner on the 83's only. They made this a bit wider on the 84's and later bikes.

 

Frank D.

[dingy]

I know you didn't ask this question, but I am gonna answer it anyways.

 

The drive shaft is shorter on the MKI's when compared to the MKII's.

 

Picture attached shows difference.

 

With all that being typed, if there is this much difference in the shaft, rear drive must be different.

 

Gary

Edited February 3, 2012 by dingy
didn't instead of did

[Mike Mercury]

Thanks for the response, but I changed the wheel not the drive shaft, I also looked up the 83 vs 91 rear wheel, and the only difference between the 2 except for color, is collar(4), and cover plate(8), so I guess this should fit?

 

Mike

[jasonm.]

I don't know if the drive spline fits the same on Mk 1 & Mk 2 Ventures, but I seem to remember that the distance between the rim sides (where it meets with the tire's beads) is thinner on the 83's only. They made this a bit wider on the 84's and later bikes.

 

Frank D.

Frank...that info is ONLY was the front rim...2.15 vs. 2.50

Edited February 3, 2012 by jasonm.

[Mike Mercury]

After being operated for stones in kidney(2 weeks of hell), I got back to my project and found the problem of rear wheel tightening up when torqued, the spacer and collar where shorter on 83 than original 91, so my rear drive and R1 rear brake upgrade, is complete and looking good.

 

Now my attention is on my R1 front brakes with (rear FJR) new solid 5mmX282mm rotors, brake lines of a 2003 V-Max, with a plate to attach the joint on bike.

 

Mike

[dingy]

After being operated for stones in kidney(2 weeks of hell), I got back to my project and found the problem of rear wheel tightening up when torqued, the spacer and collar where shorter on 83 than original 91, so my rear drive and R1 rear brake upgrade, is complete and looking good.

 

Now my attention is on my R1 front brakes with (rear FJR) new solid 5mmX282mm rotors, brake lines of a 2003 V-Max, with a plate to attach the joint on bike.

 

Mike

 

Do you have any more detailed shots of the rear R1 mount you could send me?

 

I have a modified VMax caliper arm on now to match up to the VMax rim, and I am very interested in getting an R1 caliper on the rear.

 

Gary

[Mike Mercury]

Hi Gary, I will try to get more pics for you but, the job with stock VR parts is practically bolt-on with light shims mods(to center caliper to rotor with new pads) if needed.

 

Mike

[Mike Mercury]

I hope these pics will help, my rear end is complete(except for rear bleeding problem), after adding my braided lines, front splitter and bracket, my R1 upgrade is now complete and on budget(310$).

 

Exhaust collector is next on my list, I heard rattles when starting my motor, so I will cut open, inspect and repair.

 

I am having a hard time finding the proper set-up for I-phone and Nuvi 550 Gps, I tried on top of faux-tank but seems odd, anybody with ideas are welcome, the techmount bracket was installed between my handlebars on my Concours 14 and worked great.

 

Mike:lightbulb:

[Mike Mercury]

Collector box finally removed, a lot of loose metal in there, found a little oil on collector bracket, no dripping, more of a light seeping in time under the transmission, I hope nothing nasty because I would like to take my bike out before November:fingers-crossed-emo.

What could be the cause of oil and is this a big problem, I need help.

 

Mike

[dingy]

One of several seals could be causing this. Or a side cover gasket.

 

Clutch cover, middle drive cover/copper washer on bottom screw.

 

Stator cover, wires coming out of stator cover - pickup coils & stator wires.

 

Clutch shaft seal.

 

Gear indicator o-ring

 

Gear shift shaft.

 

I would start by pulling middle drive cover and seeing what it looks like in there.

 

Attached are some pictures of what you will see with cover removed. Any cover you need to pull will need a new gasket. Gaskets are fairly cheap.

 

Gary

 

 

[Mike Mercury]

Gary,I will check every item after cleaning the belly of the motor, thanks for the pointers.

Today I finished the repair on collector box, removed loose baffle and welded unit at every stress points, I replaced my original collector with spare 83VR in better condition, should be good. Will try to make copper sleeve with copper tubing, other gaskets will be made of high temp. silicone exhaust wrapping and exhaust glue. If there is a better way, please comment.

 

Mike