Need a good (low price) source for Progressives

[cabreco]

The strange thing is that the problem occurs after changing the fork seals. Before that there was absolutely no problem.

Once you spray the fork seals, if you do see leaks try this first.

DynoDon her on this forum gave me this tip & it worked beautifully! I used this method to stop an oil leak at the forks

 

"If you take a strip of film negative (trim the "sprockets" off because they can break off, so the sides are smooth, and round the corners of one end) and after raising up the dust seal, slip the negative under the fork seal, keeping it tight to the fork tube. The film will go in the seal maybe 1/2" or so. Stop at that point and then carefully and slowly just slide the negative around the tube, keeping it mostly vertical

with the tube. Do this about 2-3 times, just sliding it around the tube with it under the seal.

Remove the film and wipe down the tube, and test it by bouncing. It should stay dry."

 

Other than that you may just have a bad seal.

Edited January 31, 2012 by cabreco

[cabreco]

Well yesterday I received the neck bearig tool from Dingy. So today I decided to check & see if my bearings needed tightening. I was relieved that it was actually fairly easy to do.

 

I took off the handlebars & found that the center lockdown nut was loose (one finger loose). I decided to check the play at the wheel and although it wasn't sloppy loose, I did feel a slight "bump bump" when I gently pulled & pushed the front forks front & back.

 

Ok so I used the neck wrench & easily got 1/4 turn out of it. I checked the front again and did not feel the bumping or binding. I reassembled it and took it for a spin.

 

WOW! What I was feeling was NOT the forks bottoming out, it was the loose neck bearings nut. I drove around running over sewer covers, small pothole, making tight turns. I heard & felt NOTHING. No vibrations, no noise...nothing. What I did notice is that she handles tighter circles at low speeds much better.

 

SO for now I am going to put the progressives on hold until next year, when I will wind up getting front & rear (if this bike proves worthy this summer)

 

With the exception of sealing the carb boots to the air box, I think I am now road worthy. I have to find the sealant to use on that.

 

Starting of with short trips!

[Venturous Randy]

I went forward and I replaced also the springs with progressive springs. I put the spacer as delivered with the springs. Now I have to cut the spacer because the bike is staying too high and is hitting the top at bumps, but this is not the main issue here.

The issue is that my forks still don't keep the air pressure. Does anybody has any idea? When I'm removing the caps of the forks I'm hearing some air leaking from the fork, but very few.

 

The bike is 1990 Venture Royale.

 

Regards,

Corneliu

 

Just curious why you are still running air in the forks if the bike is hitting the top at bumps?

When I put progressives in my 83, I did not put any spacer preload and it has worked perfect for me. The bike does set a little higher than before.

RandyA

[KIC]

I would recommend ( highly) that you pull the top bearing and re-grease it. I just pulled mine off and the bearing was rock solid from dried grease. 10 minutes in mineral spirits cleaned it up and it spun like new. When ( and if) I ever get mine back together I expect a newer, better feeling ride.

 

The bottom bearing was fine.

 

Bill