Need a good (low price) source for Progressives

[cabreco]

Ok

Now that I am basically road ready, I want to tighten the front end. The Class is working perfect but regardless of the air pressure the when driving over manholds & bumps the front kinda clunks. So I'm going to redo the front end.

 

1. New Progressive Springs

2. New Neck Bearings - the neck bearing are tight but since I will have the handlebars off why not do the bearings

 

I need a good source for Springs. & good = less expensive.

Also are Lytle Racing Group or Air Balls Racing Neck bearing good? If not which do you recommend?

 

After this is done it should be time for long distance cruising time!

[Snaggletooth]

I used the All Balls on my '84. About $31.00 bucks I think it was. No issues at all.

 

As far as the Progressives I can't say who is cheapest. Haven't looked in a while but the different sellers were not all that far apart on price at the time I did mine. About $10 bucks give or take.

 

Mike

[tufftom4]

I got all 3 of these from Powersport Superstore for 99$ and that included shipping.

 

Maxima Fork Oil - 10WT/1 Liter 55901

Progressive Suspension Fork Spring 11-1112

Ratio-Rite Measuring Cup - --

Edited January 27, 2012 by tufftom4

[skydoc_17]

Here is a link to the Progressive Fork Springs I offer in the Classifieds:

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3768&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22

 

As stated in the Install docs from Progressive, you should measure the height of the fluid in each fork tube, instead of filling both "casted" lower fork tubes with the same volume of fork oil, since the lower fork tubes are not a bored diameter, the height of the fork oil could be different from one tube to the other.

Earl

[KIC]

I bought mine from Skydoc_17 and I am installing them this weekend. They came fast, well packaged and with all the help he has contributed to me and this site, well recommended.

 

You might find a little cheaper elsewhere .... But where else are you going to get the tech support on the product and installation than from here and from Skydoc_17?

[twigg]

I'd vote for supporting Earl ... If you really need cheap there are some on eBay right now for $65 plus shipping.

[cabreco]

Here is a link to the Progressive Fork Springs I offer in the Classifieds:

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3768&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22

 

As stated in the Install docs from Progressive, you should measure the height of the fluid in each fork tube, instead of filling both "casted" lower fork tubes with the same volume of fork oil, since the lower fork tubes are not a bored diameter, the height of the fork oil could be different from one tube to the other.

Earl

 

 

Earl, you'll be hearing from me in the next couple of weeks! Will I need anything else (oil of course) other that what is in the box to install?

(spacers washers etc?)

Edited January 27, 2012 by cabreco

[cabreco]

You might find a little cheaper elsewhere .... But where else are you going to get the tech support on the product and installation than from here and from Skydoc_17?

 

The ones on Ebay would com out to $78. The extra $13 to Earl would not kill me & like you said it supports our fellow member.

 

Plus I like the fact that I would be dealing with a trusted individual.

[reddevilmedic]

I get everything from Earl, well, as much as possible. Great guy, HUGE help. Hey Earl, wheres my caliper??LOL!!! take your time, im just teasing. its still great riding weather here.

[Snaggletooth]

Here is a copy of the Progressive directions. Give ya an idea of what ya need to do ahead of time.

 

The kit comes with a piece of PVC pipe for making spacers. You'll have to cu it. Along with that I use SS washers on top of the PVC to adjust the preload on the springs to dial it in. Those lil adjustments can make a big difference on the feel of the front end.

 

It's all a matter of how you want it to feel and of course, how much you weigh. Me, I used a few extra washers.

 

Mike

[cabreco]

Here is a copy of the Progressive directions. Give ya an idea of what ya need to do ahead of time.

 

The kit comes with a piece of PVC pipe for making spacers. You'll have to cu it. Along with that I use SS washers on top of the PVC to adjust the preload on the springs to dial it in. Those lil adjustments can make a big difference on the feel of the front end.

 

It's all a matter of how you want it to feel and of course, how much you weigh. Me, I used a few extra washers.

 

Mike

 

Excellent! I am the type to research & prepare prior to work so this will come in handy!

I'm looking to make this glide over bumps. My racing ays are behind me (plus that's what I have my CB750 for!

I weight 220, but I will have to consider my wife & I riding 2 up with say 40Lbs of STUFF!

So total loaded touring weight would be 370Lbs. As far as the "feel", I am still going to keep the Class available to fine tune the ride. So I should be able to get away with the out of the box preload.

 

I also bought the neck bearing tool from Dingy. I figure I'll do the neck bearings while I'm at it to avoid having to teat it down again!

 

Thanks again for the heads up.

[reddevilmedic]

i didnt see anyone mention that you can remove the antidive after the progressive install. Skydoc sells the blockoff plates. progressives are my next project. keep chasing a sudden dropoff in volts and rpms at idle, in gear. i just replaced stator, r/r, fuel pump. tci. etc. just checked carb sync...ouch!! way off again. had a couple bad vacuum port plugs. synced nice...raining, ride it later.

[Flyinfool]

I weight 220, but I will have to consider my wife & I riding 2 up with say 40Lbs of STUFF!

So total loaded touring weight would be 370Lbs.

 

Thanks again for the heads up.

 

And are you still breathing after posting your wife's weight on the internet?????

 

Yup Earl will be getting a call from me soon for the springs, and HD RR/stator, and maybe the anti-dive block-off plates. The couple of dollars difference is well worth it.

[cabreco]

And are you still breathing after posting your wife's weight on the internet?????

 

Jeff, of THAT I have no fear. 2 years ago my wife decided that she had to lose the "baby weight" (my kid was 15). So she mapped out a complete restructure of our eating habits & life. We began eating healthy & excercising by riding bicycles 10 miles a day.

 

I can in all honesty, say me posting she weights 110Lbs is fine with her. (considering she dropped 58 Lbs in a year. Funny, I don't remember my son weight 58 lbs at birth !

 

By joining her in support, I went from a 1 cheeseburger away from a stroke 286lbs to 220lbs.

 

So I am "relatively" safe since she is thinner than when we met 25 years ago.

[jasonm.]

Here is a link to the Progressive Fork Springs I offer in the Classifieds:

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3768&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22

 

As stated in the Install docs from Progressive, you should measure the height of the fluid in each fork tube, instead of filling both "casted" lower fork tubes with the same volume of fork oil, since the lower fork tubes are not a bored diameter, the height of the fork oil could be different from one tube to the other.

Earl

changing the neck bearings is NOT easy. As the fairing and bits are in the way. I would replace the fork oil to proper levels after doing the springs. Or maybe before. adding extra oil reduces air space in the fork and actually acts like you have stiffer springs. Try it. Personally I can change springs in one hour. But expect to take 8 hours+ to do the brearings....major disassmbly required. removing the old bearings is not so easy unless you have the absolute proper tools for the stem shaft for removal and install. It's tedious

[cabreco]

changing the neck bearings is NOT easy. As the fairing and bits are in the way. I would replace the fork oil to proper levels after doing the springs. Or maybe before. adding extra oil reduces air space in the fork and actually acts like you have stiffer springs. Try it. Personally I can change springs in one hour. But expect to take 8 hours+ to do the brearings....major disassmbly required. removing the old bearings is not so easy unless you have the absolute proper tools for the stem shaft for removal and install. It's tedious

 

So I suppose, unless it is absolutely needed, I should wait to do bearings until I tear her down to paint her. As far as the stem tool, Dingy set me up with the wrench & I do have a complete workshop of tools (I restore cars for a hobby) so I'm good to go there.

I guess I should have waited to put her back together when I stripped her down last month. Impatience gets the better of me sometimes

[cabreco]

Ok I've been reading EVERYTHING I can find on installing the progressives.

 

It looks simple enough, I have all the tools needed. I do have a few questions

 

1. The forks call for 10wt oil but some use 15wt, What is the consensus on weight?

 

2. I see some cut the spaces to adjust preload, what result would I get with the stock 1 1/4 spacer provided with the kit?

 

3. I plan to keep the Class installed. If I keep the front on Min setting 8Lbs what result should I feel? (I know progressives don't need air but pressing front min by accident)

 

4. What would happen if the same were filled to the Max 17 psi?

 

I did read this somewhere here:

Progressive provide a plastic spacer and washer to adjust the preload. Their spacer is 1

¼" long and can be cut to adjust the preload. I took the old spring washer, turned it upside

down so that the lip that used to go in to the fork is now pointing up, took the old cap that

sat on the old spacer and put it on top and inserted it. This gives approximately 1" of

preload and is easier to install than their spacer.

Is this a good idea??

Eventually I will replace the rear shock with a progressive ($$$$$) , at that point the CLASS becomes an onboard tire filler.

 

Sorry for all the questions but I would rather ask now that cry later. So far you guys have not steered me wrong!

[Snaggletooth]

1. As far as weight of oil..... kind of what works for you. The way you ride and your own weight. The heavier the oil the stiffer the forks will feel. I'm 285 lbs and I like to press my luck on the twisties so the heavier the oil the more I like it. You can push it up with a little CLASS pressure if needed.

 

To note: When I first installed the Progressives I thought they were pretty harsh even with the 10 wt. After a year of riding I felt they relaxed a bit and I added more preload with washers. I do "0" Class on the front unless I'm chasing squibs on the back roads.

 

 

2. Good luck trying to install the 1 1/4" spacer. Be fun trying to install the top caps. I thing most cut the PVC spacer in half. I did mine at 3/4" and then added SS washers later on.

 

3. Again.... start at "0" pressure on the front. Don't think you will need much more than that for everyday riding.

 

4. REALLY STIFF!

 

As far as using the CLASS compressor as a tire filler...... not worth the effort. Too low of an output and would probably burn out the pump or wiring trying to fill a tire to road pressure. It's designed to add very small amounts of air to very small (1/8" ID) lines.

 

Just add a 12v mini compressor (HF) for a few bucks to your tool kit with a plug kit to get back to the barn with.

 

Mike

[cabreco]

My riding style is GEEZER!

My days of flying around are way behind me, bike or car (especially on a bike).

Like parachuting, it's not the fall I am worry about but the sudden & abrupt stop!

 

So then cut the spacers to 3/4" and use 10 wt oil.

 

What about the anti dive? I don't know what it is currently set at but it doesn't bother me as is. Does that need to be reset to the lowest setting or should I just wing it?

[Snaggletooth]

As far as the anti-dives....... don't worry about them at all. They will make no difference once the Progressives are in. No reason to worry about resetting the adjustments. A cheap way out is to simply remove the short brake line jumper from the caliper to the anti-dives and eliminate them altogether. Just swap out the short union bolts from anti-dives for the long double unions on the calipers to reattach the brake lines and cap off the anti-dives.

 

Now if ya want to get fancy skydoc_17 (Earl) has the block off plates so you can remove the anti-dives completly.

 

Few extra $$'s but it's an option.

 

I gave up worrying about the sudden abrupt stop. I do give lot of thought to how far I'm gonna slide BEFORE THE SUDDEN AND ABRUPT STOP.

 

Mike

[Snaggletooth]

Oh yeah....... what ever ya do for preload, make sure ya get the top caps back on straight when starting them back into the forks. A few have had problems and cross threaded them reinstalling them. Something you need to pay attention to during reassembly.

 

Pretty much the tops of the spacers on top of the springs should come right even to the top of the upper fork leg with the forks fully extended. That should be about 3/4 inch of compression preload as you screw the caps in. Any height above the top of the fork legs will make installing the caps more ...... challenging.

 

Mike

[cabreco]

So whether I leave the anti dive on or off is inconsequential.

Thanks for the tip on the caps. I read they can be a real PITA to reinstall and crossthreading is a problem fighting the preload.

 

I think of all the upgrades, this will be the most notable in feel!

[quant55]

A few weeks ago, I had problems with one of the forks leaking oil. So I decided to replace the oil and the fork seals. The strange thing is that after replacing the fork seals, I discovered that my forks are not keeping the air pressure and I've got that clank at bumps on the road.

I went forward and I replaced also the springs with progressive springs. I put the spacer as delivered with the springs. Now I have to cut the spacer because the bike is staying too high and is hitting the top at bumps, but this is not the main issue here.

The issue is that my forks still don't keep the air pressure. Does anybody has any idea? When I'm removing the caps of the forks I'm hearing some air leaking from the fork, but very few.

 

The bike is 1990 Venture Royale.

 

Regards,

Corneliu

[cabreco]

When I'm removing the caps of the forks I'm hearing some air leaking from the fork, but very few.

 

The bike is 1990 Venture Royale.

 

Regards,

Corneliu

 

Did you check the o-rings on the caps?

I had a slight air leak on my 84 when I bought her. I found it by spraying window cleaner (soapy water) on every possible area that make leak.

1. Fork seals
   
2. Caps
   
3. Air inlet on forks
   
4. Air lines
   
5. Air connections
   
6. Air compressor/Solenoid
   

I finally found it in the solenoid compression washer.

[quant55]

Did you check the o-rings on the caps?

I had a slight air leak on my 84 when I bought her. I found it by spraying window cleaner (soapy water) on every possible area that make leak.

1. Fork seals
   
2. Caps
   
3. Air inlet on forks
   
4. Air lines
   
5. Air connections
   
6. Air compressor/Solenoid
   

I finally found it in the solenoid compression washer.

 

The strange thing is that the problem occurs after changing the fork seals. Before that there was absolutely no problem. Also, I did not do anything air lines, air connections, and so on. These are untouched. I will re-check everything in a week or so, when I'll start re-assembling my bike after my last crash.... still here there are a very few degrees... so it is difficult to ride, so there is no rush