XV1100SE Posted January 25, 2012 #1 Posted January 25, 2012 Figured that over the winter I'd redo some of my wiring on my 2nd Gen by adding a ganged fuse block. Sounds like a great idea... until you connect it and then try to figure out where to put it ! I also want to wire in a cigarette lighter for use with an air compressor and wire in my GPS. Also planning on connecting a GPS tracking device. Have Stebel horn with harness... relay on right side of battery. Passing lights with relay behind battery. Have trailer isolator behind battery. Now... fuse block... On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Behind batter? Where to put the isolator? On top of battery? Seat won't sit down. Hmmm.... where else is there space? Side panels... no room.... centre of frame under back end of fuel tank? Nope... too congested with plumbing.... Options : - put the fuse block in the front fairing and leave the isolator behind the battery....but then would have to run power wire from battery compartment for isolator, horn, cigarette lighter to the fairing. The passing lights relay would be in the fairing. - move the isolator to outside of the plastic panel between battery and fender and fuse block behind battery... What have others done?
darthandy Posted January 25, 2012 #2 Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) I put a 6 fuse (ATC type) block on the rear fender behind the battery. It's a bit tight and some wires pass over it but it is doable. You can then run wire from the battery to the main terminal. Here is a link to the post where I had pictures of the fuse block and the installation. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64977&highlight=fuse+block I used the position as shown in the middle picture. Keep in mind that this will allow power to the connections at all times. In my case, it didn't matter because the wires were going to relays so there was only power when the key was turned on. Some other post mentioned getting power to the fuse block from somewhere else that was controlled by the key, so that might be a better option. Hope this helps. Andy Edited January 25, 2012 by darthandy Added some clarifying info
RedRider Posted January 25, 2012 #3 Posted January 25, 2012 It will fit with some movement of the relays. See pic. Be careful with using a cig lighter for a compressor. Most cig lighters are fused for 5 amps and the compressor will pull 8 (for a short period, then it will pull 0 'cause the fuse is blown). If you have a Battery Tender lead wired to the battery, you can modify the compressor connection to tie into that. It is fused at 15 amps or something like that. In the picture I ran a separate lead for the compressor (end is covered by a couple of nitrile glove fingers - blue). I have since removed this lead and use the Tender connection. RR
djh3 Posted January 25, 2012 #4 Posted January 25, 2012 Darthandy, This fuse block idea interests me. Where can you get one? I thought of this reading the post. If everything is controlled off relays, what if you used the "acc" wire under the seat that is controled by the key to power the relay trigger? Then the relay would only be powered with key on? Am I thinkin rite?
Owen Posted January 25, 2012 #5 Posted January 25, 2012 I did a fuse block in conjunction with electrical clean up... here's a link
pickinfred Posted January 25, 2012 #6 Posted January 25, 2012 I did a fuse block in conjunction with electrical clean up... here's a link Clean/neat job Owen.........can the battery be removed without moving everything? Fred
pickinfred Posted January 25, 2012 #7 Posted January 25, 2012 I also want to wire in a cigarette lighter for use with an air compressor Options : What have others done? I ran a 20 amp power branch to lighter receptacle for air compressor, trouble light and etc. while running power to air horn relay that I placed under right cover. Not pretty but it works! I followed SilvrTs air horn setup in an earlier post. Thanks SilvrT. Upload of the picture failed....so....... I made a plate for the power receptacle and placed in the spot where the horn was removed. Fred
darthandy Posted January 25, 2012 #8 Posted January 25, 2012 Darthandy, This fuse block idea interests me. Where can you get one? I thought of this reading the post. If everything is controlled off relays, what if you used the "acc" wire under the seat that is controled by the key to power the relay trigger? Then the relay would only be powered with key on? Am I thinkin rite? I got my fuse block at a local auto accessory parts store, but you should be able to get one at a NAPA store or a similar auto accessory store. As for the accessory "outlet" under the seat, yes, I suppose you could use it to trigger a relay, but you would still need to run a wire from the battery to power the accessory itself. To get a better idea of how relays work and how to hook up various accessories, go to this link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150&highlight=relays+101 You can then download the "Relays 101" PDF file that Dingy wrote up. It covers just about everything you need to know to remove the heavy load from the ignition switch that can lead to its early failure (Guess how I know about this problem!). If you're thinking of using that outlet to power a fuse block, I don't think the wire gauge is large enough to handle the potential load of the various accessories. Too many amps running through there would either blow the fuse or overheat the wire causing it to melt the insulation and possibly even cause a fire. If you have a specific problem or plan you would like help with, you can PM me and I'll try to help, but dingy is far more knowledgeable on this subject. Andy
XV1100SE Posted January 25, 2012 Author #9 Posted January 25, 2012 I got my fuse block at a local auto accessory parts store. I got a ganged six fuse block at Princess Auto. Thinking I'll move the trailer isolator to the area between the battery and fender (outside of battery box) and put the fuse holder between the battery and back wall of the battery box.
uechi kid Posted January 25, 2012 #10 Posted January 25, 2012 It will fit with some movement of the relays. See pic. Be careful with using a cig lighter for a compressor. Most cig lighters are fused for 5 amps and the compressor will pull 8 (for a short period, then it will pull 0 'cause the fuse is blown). If you have a Battery Tender lead wired to the battery, you can modify the compressor connection to tie into that. It is fused at 15 amps or something like that. In the picture I ran a separate lead for the compressor (end is covered by a couple of nitrile glove fingers - blue). I have since removed this lead and use the Tender connection. RR That's the same place I put mine. This is the one I used. I also bought their wiring harness. Here's a link. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
darthandy Posted January 25, 2012 #11 Posted January 25, 2012 That's the same place I put mine. This is the one I used. I also bought their wiring harness. Here's a link. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html Ouch! Sure puts my crappy little fuse block to shame! Oh well, as long as it works, I guess. Andy
XV1100SE Posted January 25, 2012 Author #12 Posted January 25, 2012 Princess Auto.... $15. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8138224/Fuses/breakers/Fuse-and-Circuit-Panel Doesn't have a cover and that is why I'm planning on putting it under the seat (or 2nd choice inside the fairing).
uechi kid Posted January 25, 2012 #13 Posted January 25, 2012 Princess Auto.... $15. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8138224/Fuses/breakers/Fuse-and-Circuit-Panel Doesn't have a cover and that is why I'm planning on putting it under the seat (or 2nd choice inside the fairing). I was going to install one like that at first but went with the one from easternbeaver becaue it has a ground block built in. It was a little expensive but it was worth it.
Owen Posted January 25, 2012 #14 Posted January 25, 2012 Clean/neat job Owen.........can the battery be removed without moving everything? Fred Yes, the battery can be removed without moving stuff....
RedRider Posted January 26, 2012 #15 Posted January 26, 2012 I will also recommend the Fuzeblock FZ-1 (http://www.fuzeblock.com). Allows each circuit to be either switched or unswitched. Also has a built in relay. Really nice, compact, unit built in Wisconsin by Curt Gran (took 5th in the 2011 IBR). Very solid product built by a really nice guy. No affiliation other than knowing Curt and using his product in my KLR (already had the Centec installed in the Venture before the FZ-1 was introduced). RR
Flyinfool Posted January 26, 2012 #16 Posted January 26, 2012 I will also recommend the Fuzeblock FZ-1 (www.fuzeblock.com). Allows each circuit to be either switched or unswitched. Also has a built in relay. Really nice, compact, unit built in Wisconsin by Curt Gran (took 5th in the 2011 IBR). Very solid product built by a really nice guy. No affiliation other than knowing Curt and using his product in my KLR (already had the Centec installed in the Venture before the FZ-1 was introduced). RR Link don't work. Here is the right one www.fuzeblocks.com
RedRider Posted January 26, 2012 #17 Posted January 26, 2012 Link don't work. Here is the right one www.fuzeblocks.com Thank you Jeff. RR
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