rstacy Posted January 23, 2012 #1 Posted January 23, 2012 As I continue to knock off items on my winter maintenance schedule, tonight I got to the carb balancing. I bought a Carbtune a few months back knowing that this day was coming. Using skydoc_17's document was the ticket to making this task a breeze. Thank Earl! I read the document a couple of times and located the all of the screws. I was pretty surprised at how far off the carbs were considering that it was running pretty well. 3&4 were pulling so much vacuum that the slides were pegged and 1&2 were way at the bottom. I actually had to do the 1/2 & 3/4 balance first just to get things in the ball park. After going back and forth a few times, this is where I ended up. http://www.raymondstacy.com/carbtune.jpg Once the weather breaks I will put some miles on it and check it again. The gen2 starter is working really well. All thats left is to change the oil and install skydoc_17's drain plug fix.. I should have my seat back from Rick Butler in a couple of weeks. I cant wait to take it for a spin!
skydoc_17 Posted January 23, 2012 #2 Posted January 23, 2012 Hey Ray, Thanks for the kind words about the write up of the Carb. Sync. in the First Gen. Tech Section. Every time I see an owner of a First or Second Gen. have the courage to do their own Maintenance on their bikes, it makes me happy to know that they didn't get ripped off at the dealer. Ya' DONE GOOD Ray! Here is a link to the Tech Article Ray is talking about: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723 Even if you don't own a Carbtune Manometer, the steps in this Tech Article would be the same for ANY Manometer used. Thanks again Ray, Earl
jasonm. Posted January 28, 2012 #3 Posted January 28, 2012 I also follow up with revving to 3000 and checking if it's still sync'd because WE do not ride at idle. There are bushings and linkages that wear.
Marcarl Posted January 28, 2012 #4 Posted January 28, 2012 I also follow up with revving to 3000 and checking if it's still sync'd because WE do not ride at idle. There are bushings and linkages that wear. Keep in mind that if you find that it is out at 3000 rpm and you adjust it, it will now be out at idle. At idle is where it is the most important. This theory works on percentages. A half turn on the screw at idle, makes quite a difference, seeing as the opening of the butterfly can be hardly seen, but when the butterflies are half ways open, that same difference (half turn of a screw) will have minimal impact on the flow of things (much smaller percentage) I hope this makes sense.
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