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Posted

I have an older Ryobi table saw that the top has a bunch of grooves on it. I prefer to have a flat smooth surface to easily glide the wood. Sometimes as it is the wood seems to stick to the surface. Any suggestions to make the top into a smooth surface?

Posted (edited)

Johnsons paste wax. made of Bees wax?

Make sure you wipe it really good after applying, it will make it super slick...and will sink into the pores of the cast iron or aluminum. if you don't get it all off, it could create areas that wont stain evenly...

 

Cast Iron - clean first with wire wheel on grinder or wire brush..

Aluminum - clean first with a brass wire brush... never use a steel wire wheel or brush on aluminum as it will cause it to oxidize...

Edited by CaptainJoe
Posted
Scrap pc of 1/4" corian screwed to the top with countersunk screws. Crank the saw blade thru the top:thumbsup:

 

Craig

 

 

Or if you don't want to use screws, contact cement or Liquid Nails, whole new surface. 1/8 inch would work fine. This is how I finish work bench tops.

Posted
Or if you don't want to use screws, contact cement or Liquid Nails, whole new surface. 1/8 inch would work fine. This is how I finish work bench tops.

 

I thought of that but screws would allow him to remove top to access saw arbor to change blades:think:

 

Craig

Posted (edited)

cut out:

 

the shape of a piano approximate size 2' x 2' from a piece of 1/2 plywood

glue a hardwood straight edge on across the back top end say 3/4 W x 1/2 D x 2'L

measure distance inside miter grove is from your saw blade.

 

glue a piece of hardwood wood on the bottom of the plywood that will fit into your miter grove 3/8 D x 3/4W x 2'L(measure your groves height and width)

 

it will be on the bottom, perpendicular to the top. Take your measurment #1 + a half an inch from the right hand top edge and attach. use wood glue and screws, you can remove screws when glue drys

 

place into groove for miter, start table saw and push the plywood thru which will give you a perfectly fitting edge...

 

this will give you a perfectly smooth surface that is square to your blade

 

will take a pic in a couple min although mine is rpobably 3 ' x 3 '

 

here they are last pic is of the bottom.

 

nice thing about using this is, if your wood is wet or rough on the bottom, it won't matter as the piece will be lifted and held securely the thickness of the plywoood you use.

 

You can also cut raised panel doors easily

 

smaller if your just doing lumber bigger if your doing larger dimensioned lumber

 

the piano shape allows you get closer

Edited by CaptainJoe
Posted

How do any of you all plan on the ripfence still fitting after raising the deck height?

 

I rip stuff all the time and never felt it was a real issue unless I am ripping stuff in the rain. (which I do all the time)

 

I just make sure the saw is ancored down good so it does not tip over or slide.

Posted

Depends how your rip fence is fastned, if its on a rail on the front of the saw the rail will need to be raised, you are rite it will require some modification. He just asked for ideas, I just thru one out there. I agree a sliding table would also be a nice idea. I also agree will you I have never had the need to alter my saw table.:080402gudl_prv:

 

Craig

Posted

Mine had rust spots on it so I first sanded it down with 600 wet or dry, cleaned it up with paint thinner, let it dry and then put the paste wax on.

Posted

The Ryobi saw does not have miter grove in it. There is a product from Rockler that you spray on to make the surface slick. I use pure carnuba w/ beaswax and it works fine on my Ryobi. Keep it clean and waxed and you will have no problems. I love my Ryobi.

 

:farmer:

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