My Plumbing Leak Fix Plan - Your Thoughts.

[GolfVenture]

The Drain Pipe has no room for me to seperate at the leaking joint. At the Bottom the Drain Pipe goes into the cement floor. Above the Drain Pipe has a T for the Vent and the horizontal drain connection to the sink/dishwasher. This drain connection goes through the 2 x 6 and so the drain Pipe hole has absolutely no give in it.

 

So see attachment for my solution.

 

1st picture is the leak at the 1st picture at the point where the vertical pipe goes into the curve piece.

 

2nd picture is my plan of the fix. By so doing it provides me some give so I can make all the connections.

 

Anyone see any issue with the solution?

[mhaigwood]

Most couplings have stops in the middle so you cant slide pipe all the way through. Need to get some repair couplings, they dont have stops. Slide it over the pipe, then fit in new piece of pipe. I know they make repair couplings for one and half inch and two inch pipe, dont know about three inch. Might have to go to plumbing supply. Good luck Mark

[CaptainJoe]

or take a rounded wood chisel and knock center out...:whistling:of a regular coupler

 

poblem doing it that way is getting the cut part covered evenly with collar "before the glue drys."

 

they do make rubber collars 3" x 6", 4"x 6" and larger for the bigger pipe.

 

 

And they'rer easier to work with plus you can take them apart anytime you want.

 

check out other post for my suggested fix

[painterman67]

you could go to hardware store and buy the clamp on type coupling. Just cut out the pipe that has the crack( aka where its leaking) cut another piece of pipe to fit. Slide the rubber coupling on eachside of the pipe and then roll them onto the original pipe thats left. The rubber coupling also comes with a band ( alumiinum I think) that wraps around the rubber piece. tighten the screws and your done. Dont over tighten these as you can strip them. I cant remember the name of the pipe clamp but I've done this on numerus ocasions and it worked fine.

 

David

 

Ok I just google pvc rubber couplings and what Im talking about is called a ferco coupling. Its relatively simple to use and you want have to use so many 45's . One piece of pipe and 2 ferncos to match diameter of pipe. Yes Im a painter but I did plumbing for 4 yrs previus to this and alos called my copusin who is a liscensed ( spelling ) plumber here in NC and this was his sugestion also.

 

Good luck and my number is in my profile if you need help. sorry I didnt respond earlier but wanted to educate myself before I made a dumb response.

Edited January 13, 2012 by painterman67

[dacheedah]

iF THERE IS NO ROOM, GET FERNCO FITTINGS, THEY WILL SLIDE ON ALL THE WAY ON THE PIPE, YOU FIT THE REPAIR IN AND SLIDE THE FERNCO COUPLER OVER THE JOINT AND TIGHTEN. ALL DONE!!

[dacheedah]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFaJyIzyiYA]How to join cast iron pipe or copper pipe to plastic pipe using fernco couplings. - YouTube[/ame]

[GolfVenture]

Wow, guess I haven't kept up on the state of the art plumbing fixes. Thanks everyone. I'll check your suggestions out.

[barend]

The Drain Pipe has no room for me to seperate at the leaking joint. At the Bottom the Drain Pipe goes into the cement floor. Above the Drain Pipe has a T for the Vent and the horizontal drain connection to the sink/dishwasher. This drain connection goes through the 2 x 6 and so the drain Pipe hole has absolutely no give in it.

 

So see attachment for my solution.

 

1st picture is the leak at the 1st picture at the point where the vertical pipe goes into the curve piece.

 

2nd picture is my plan of the fix. By so doing it provides me some give so I can make all the connections.

 

Anyone see any issue with the solution?

 

So, your leak is at the joint between the elbow and the downpipe and you're wanting to fix it by cutting below the elbow and putting a loop in:confused07::confused07: How exactly is that going to fix the leaking coupling?

If it is leaking where you say it is you will need to remove the coupling - which will make your pipes too short!! So you will have to extend the "jog" you have there with a straight coupling and a new piece of pipe, then choose between 1. add a new coupling and down pipe to match what you have and install a rubber flex coupling with two stainless band clamps; or 2. cut your down pipe close to the ground, install a straight coupling, add a new vertical of the correct length with a new elbow. It'd be a *****, but you should have enough play to pull your new vertical away from the wall to install the coupling on the "jog"

 

'Course you could always call a plumber :whistling:Sure it'll cost you a hundred quid but sometimes the headache:bang head: ain't worth doing it yourself.

[painterman67]

if the leak is at the joint then still easy. get piece of pipe matching diameter and a 45 coupling.. Cuut out 45 coupling with saw,one cut on each side. glue short pieces into coupling and use the ferncos in the same manner as instucted on the video before just use the new coupling in place of the old one.

 

David

 

Thanks Barend I didnt catch that it was the coupling itself leaking I thought it was the verticle downpipe after the 45 dgree angle

[Shorty]

Just a heads-up if you use the fernco coupling..... the Building Inspector made me take off the all rubber one and replace it with the one with the stainless band around it.

[cecdoo]

Just a heads-up if you use the fernco coupling..... the Building Inspector made me take off the all rubber one and replace it with the one with the stainless band around it.

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that: The rubber ones are only for the vent pipe.

 

Craig

[Shorty]

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that: The rubber ones are only for the vent pipe.

 

Craig

 

Mine IS a Vent Pipe and the inspector made me replace it anyway. Here's a picture of it.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Who called the inspector anyway? I only do IF it is 100% required.

But what do I know besides pay day is Friday.... and you have to pump effluent to get it up hill.

 

Do you guys call an inspector to your homes if you do a repair? Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do in a tight spot.

[CaptainJoe]

When your working with pipe that cannot be moved on either end , cutting a section out, rounding the inside edges of all pieces and using two rubber collars with stainless steel hose clamps is the best, most economical way.

 

The only thing I've ever seen the rubber collars with stainless steel shielding used on, is pipes that have pressure on them... Natural gas pipes, pumped effluent pipes, water pipes, as the collars without shielding can swell up and burst if under pressure.

[dacheedah]

I would have him show me the code, if they are using the national plumbing code it is fine for (DWV) Drain waste vent applications, The shielded fittings can be used on a pressure supply side if not or if they have an exception it has to be written. The fernco fittings have spec sheets and have been approved by all US, Canadian and European plumbing codes. He can't ding you because he doesn't like the fitting or because some plumber once told him .... The soil line should be gravity and minimum pressure. They are also acceptable to transition pipe sizes 4" to 6", dis similar pipe types . . .

 

On joining your plastic, square cuts, purple cleaner ( if it's to be inspected or visible) on both sides and glue on both sides. Slide in and twist a little until it bottoms out and hold a few seconds. Done.

 

On this application I would replace the pipe beyond the leak with new plastic ( Plastic is far cheaper than the repair) use sweep elbows and not tight 90 degree bends. With the fernco mark the pipe so the fitting is centered, slide over one side all the way, butt them up and slide it back to the mark and tighten the bands to 60 inch pounds. All done , the biggest plumbing mistake is over tightening fittings.