My Plumbing Leak is Found - Need Advise Please

[GolfVenture]

See Picture

 

So as the drain pipe comes down the main floor wall from the sink area, it has to make a inward jog so the pip can come inside and down the cement wall into the basement. The leak is all along the circurmfrance of the long verticle basement pipe where it fits inside curved pipe.

 

So what is the best way of fixing it?

[Caveman]

I'm not a plummer so my advice may not be the best. I would cut that 90 out, buy 2 couplings and a new 90 and glue those in and see if that does it. If it doesn't, you will have to pull that whole pipe out of the wall and put a new one in down to the basement with new fittings.

[CaptainJoe]

Can't tell from pic but looks like a 3" pipe 22 1/2 degree elbow?

 

 

If your lucky... you can take a hammer and tap on elbow straight up.

 

Clean the inner portion of the elbow and outer portion of the pipe by scraping(looks like silicone caulk?) and then ABS pipe cleaner.

 

Buy the ABS glue that can be used wet to reassemble liberally coating both the inside of elbow and the pipe and push together and hold for 60 seconds.

 

 

If your not lucky and the elbow is not completely fitting over the pipe at least 1 1/4 "...

cut elbow off as square as possible take to store and get a longer elbow cause your gonna loose 1 1/2 " of pipe on both ends . If not they can fix you up with the proper fittings to make up for the pipe lost.

 

Chance are you'll most likely need two 3" pieces of 3" pipe, two 3" straight couplers, 1 3" elbow ?? deg., ABS pipe cleaner, glue that can be used wet for ABS.

 

Hoping your lucky...LOL

Edited January 13, 2012 by CaptainJoe

[MiCarl]

 

 

If your lucky... you can take a hammer and tap on elbow straight up.

 

 

I wonder about the workmanship in the other joints and whether tapping on that elbow might open up others. This might be one of those times when it's worth the $$ to bring in a pro.

 

In any case, I wouldn't be in any hurry to redo the sheet rock in the basement. Make sure the pipe is good before closing up.

[barend]

[quote=captainjoe;649027 not lucky and the elbow is not completely fitting over the pipe at least 1 1/4 "...

cut elbow off as square as possible take to store and get a longer elbow cause your gonna loose 1 1/2 " of pipe on both ends . If not they can fix you up with the proper fittings to make up for the pipe lost.

 

Actually, I read the results of a study relating to PVC pipe welds which determined that even poor welds (i.e. insufficient depth, angled pipe to joint connections, etc) were still stronger then the actual joint or pipe itself, assuming of course that a cleaner was used in conjunction with the appropriate glue. So yes, a fully seated joint would be great, but then you may be able to get by with a partially seated one, especially since this is the drain (non-pressure) side.

 

Having said that, if you have silicone there, someone either screwed up with the original install or it may have been "fixed" incorrectly somewhere in the past. Have fun!

[ragtop69gs]

You have 2 option here, the first is to cut out the offending parts and replace it all or you can take the easy way out and repair the leak with Plastex. I know a lot of people will say No to this approach but the plastex will work good here. I used Plastex to repair 2 leaking pipe joints in my hot tub several years ago and they are still holding tight. My leak was in a joint just like what you have. Hot tub plumbing see's a lot of thermal changes and shocks from pumps turning on and off, so in your application where there is no pressure or shock it should work good.

[Flyinfool]

If that is silicone caulk on there I would cut it out and replace so that you know it is a permanent fix. It is almost impossible to get all traces of silicone off and any trace left behind will only create a new leak thru your repair.

To replace that elbow and do it right you are not looking at a lot of dollars worth of parts.

 

As was mentioned, give your pipe repair some time before you redo the wall. This will also insure that everything in there is dried out good before you close in moisture to make more mold.

Make sure you clean up and/or replace anything with black mold on it. Make an effort to be sure you find it all. Nasty stuff.

[GolfVenture]

Thank You for all the suggestions.

 

First this is the origional construction, for it was my new custom home, and I've not done any previous plumbing fix.

 

With that that in mind what looks like silcone, It really just an unclear picture. For if it was silcone I could with a sharp knife peel it off. I've taken a different camera hopfully for a better picture. See attached. With that I can't imagine a licensed plummer using silcone.

 

Well I'm in no hurry to close up the rock and so what ever fix is done I'll let the dampness dry. I'll bring in additional heat and fan the area for several days.

 

The only black mold found was at the very bottom of the rock near the basement floor. I will incure to cut out and replace with new rock and insullation. I will with latex gloves put 50/50 water/bleach from the top of the ceiling let it drop down to soak into the wood to ensure to fight any hidden mold.

 

You have helped me understand the problem of fixing it in such tight quarters and little pipe space.

 

I looked at the problem again and an idea came to me. The main problem is getting pipe room to dismantle and put together without the danger of possibly creating new cracks, even tho the glued fittings are stronger than the pipe itself.

 

After standing way back and looking at the entire wall, I think I have a good fix.

 

I'll send a drawing.

 

The additional piping would give me enought flex in the pipe to get a good tight pip fit, without jepordizing any other glued fittings.

[Sailor]

Not a plumber but to me the best choice would be replacement of the fitting. Second choice is to go to your nearest boating supply store. You can get repair epoxy which comes in stick form. Simply cut off what you need and massage the two parts together then mold around the seam. It dries hard and waterproof and can even be used underwater. I have used it on my boat and on plumbing in the house.

[GolfVenture]

Home was built in 1988. And I think the warentee was 10 years if I recall.

[CaptainJoe]

if your worried about knocking sonmething else loose...

 

And

 

Your sure it is leaking on the bottom side of the elbow....

 

Cut the 3 inch pipe off 12" above the cleanout and pull pipe out of elbow, you should have a 3'-4' long piece of pipe in your hands...

 

Push a 3" x 6" rubber collar over pipe above the cleanout.

 

Turn old pipe around and around clean cut end off and inside of elbow with ABS/plastic pipe cleaner.

 

Glue elbow and cut off end of the 3-4" piece and push into elbow holding till set.

 

Now pull rubber collar, up over cut about halfway and tighten clamps...

 

The straightest most direct path is always the best route when dealing with drain pipes...

 

or

you could put in two rubber collars 12" below the elbow and 12" above the cleanout, but your still gonna have to glue a piece into the elbow... That way you can put the straight piece of pipe in and connect by sliding the two collars to cover up cuts...just tighten and your done...

Edited January 13, 2012 by CaptainJoe

[BradT]

The only black mold found was at the very bottom of the rock near the basement floor. I will incure to cut out and replace with new rock and insullation. I will with latex gloves put 50/50 water/bleach from the top of the ceiling let it drop down to soak into the wood to ensure to fight any hidden mold..

 

I had a small drip from the water softener and found some black mold. I fixed the leak, took straight javex in a spray bottle sprayed it lightly, and put a fan on it to dry it up, then I resprayed lightly a couple more times. Cleared up nicely. I had some stain block type primer "Kilz" that I painted on the 2x4 at the floor.

 

I am happy I have it cleaned up now.

 

Brad