joetx67 Posted January 15, 2012 Author #26 Posted January 15, 2012 Now the tests - TEST 1 turn the key on and put the bike in gear so the neutral light is out - now raise the side stand. Does the neutral light stay out? If not, then the diode in the starter cut-out/fuel pump relay is bad. TEST 2 Next, with the key still on, the bike still in gear, and the side stand still up, pull in the clutch and try the starter (don't try to actually start the bike, just note if the starter engages). Does it engage? If not, then the problem is either the side stand switch, diode 12, or the related wires. TEST 3 If the starter does engage in that test, try it again with the side stand down (key on, in gear, clutch in). Now the starter should NOT engage, simply proving that the side stand switch is working by removing the necessary ground. THANKS GOOSE:I just did the tests (I numbered your test in the quote above :depressed:as a reference): Neut light works, after I engage a shift (By the way, I can feel it does engage fine, and release fine too, so no clutch locked), neut light goes off.... 1st test: Neut light goes off when I engage a shift, and remains off when stand is up or down... 2nd test: Starter does NOT ENGAGE under this conditions. 3rd test : Does not engage either... Thanks
V7Goose Posted January 15, 2012 #27 Posted January 15, 2012 THANKS GOOSE:I just did the tests (I numbered your test in the quote above :depressed:as a reference): Neut light works, after I engage a shift (By the way, I can feel it does engage fine, and release fine too, so no clutch locked), neut light goes off.... 1st test: Neut light goes off when I engage a shift, and remains off when stand is up or down... 2nd test: Starter does NOT ENGAGE under this conditions. 3rd test : Does not engage either... Thanks Well, you have pretty much found your problem then. If you have already determined that the side stand switch has continuity when the stand is up, then you problem is either a bad diode #12 or a connector problem between the side stand switch and the ignition switch. Unfortunately, I do not know where the diode is located on the bike. The only real option is to physically trace the wires from the switch until you find a two pin plug with a blue/white wire going in from the SS switch and a blue/yellow wire going out to the ignition switch. This plug will be the diode. Goose
marczing Posted January 15, 2012 #28 Posted January 15, 2012 and that, ladies and gentlemen, is why I pay for the membership here. Zinger
V7Goose Posted January 15, 2012 #29 Posted January 15, 2012 Just a couple of more thoughts for you - the SS switch has both a blue/yellow and a black wire - make sure the black wire has good continuity to ground. It would be a real drag if you spent lots more time on this only to eventually find that the whole problem was a bad ground to the switch. Also, maybe I have figured out a tie-in between the problem and the test of your cruise control - the SS switch wires seem to run into the lower left cowling - not sure, since I have not pulled the cowling today to look, and I have never had an issue with this circuit, but it is worth a close inspection of everything in there. The vacuum motor for the cruise control cable is inside the lower left cowling, so I can see the possibility that something is routed wrong or loose in there, and the activation of the cruise motor could have damaged a wire or caused a plug connection to come loose. This is an even more likely possibility when you realize that any time one of these bikes is down, the crash bar on the down side is often bent back. Worth a close look. Goose
joetx67 Posted January 16, 2012 Author #30 Posted January 16, 2012 GOOSE: You are very very good at this....I failed to mention that when this problem start, I was riding the bike without the left down faring since it is damaged and decided to ride it like that while new arrives....will try my best to trace the diode and follow your instructions...I have restricted time to work on my bike and will try to trace the wires as soon as I can.... ....Thank you very much...
joetx67 Posted January 17, 2012 Author #31 Posted January 17, 2012 I can gladly can tell that I just get my subscription to this helpful forum....I did not espect to find such knoledgeable people in here!!!! Thanks to all of you that have expressed your interest in my thread.... GOOSE, DINGY: I have traced so far the blue/white wire from the ss connector; I have traced it up to the main harness in the back/under the gas thank, apparentely it goes under de battery cage; have not found the damm dioded yet...!!!! There are so many wires in such a small space!! while doing the trace, I found that the fuse box,under the seat, letf side has wrong amp fuses: it has 20 amp fuses where it is suppose to have 15amp!!! So I hope that the wrong fuses have blown the diode(I had an experience before in my RV AC motherboard unit, wrong fuses blown a diode)....Does somebody knows where this DIODE is located????.... I have a strong feeling thats the cause of this behavior (thanks of course to your help)....most of the wires runs under the ignitor unit: pretty hard to access...as always, any help will be appreciated....thanks:depressed:
wes0778 Posted January 17, 2012 #32 Posted January 17, 2012 Don't remember the wire colors to this "thing" behind the battery, but I wonder if this is the elusive diode? It has two rather tiny wires coming to one end and has fabric looking material in the two holes in the other end.
jilldwr Posted January 17, 2012 #33 Posted January 17, 2012 Don't remember the wire colors to this "thing" behind the battery, but I wonder if this is the elusive diode? It has two rather tiny wires coming to one end and has fabric looking material in the two holes in the other end. No, thats the rear auxiliary power connection from the ignition. If you want to add an accessory, this is where you can source power.
joetx67 Posted January 17, 2012 Author #34 Posted January 17, 2012 UPDATE: This is another reason why me and I believe all of us try to fix things for ourselves: I do not fully trust dealers!!! I went to a Yamaha dealer in Dallas, ask for the diode in the diagram, if they have it in stock, their answer was: "That diode is inside the main harness, is not designed to be changed!!!!"....OMG...they gave me an estimate of more than $2,000 labor only to replace the hole harness, I admit they told me it might be something easier....so I left and decided to check with diffrent dealer, close to dallas, their answer was that that diode is not showing in any of their diagrams!!!!...They told me the closest thing to it might be the "Side Stand relay assembly", which is located next to the main fuse box (?) ; and this time they actually showme they expoded parts diagram and it is actually labeled like that, part number 5KS-91952-00-00.... so I came back even more confused... parts are not that expensive, but I feel like they have not are telling the truth....anyway I found this page with a drawing close to what I saw at the dealership: http://arcticcat.twincountymotorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1716129&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2011&fveh=50782 showing a diode next to the fuse box, but its a 2009 bike, mine does not have such diode. I guess I will have to test all those electric little boxes and relays.....Any thoughts?..thanks:depressed:
V7Goose Posted January 17, 2012 #35 Posted January 17, 2012 That parts breakdown you referenced in your last post is for a V-Star, not a Royal Star. You can access all the correct parts breakdowns directly from Yamahaha's web site for free. http://www.starmotorcycles.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=star Frankly, the SS relay assembly is the only possibility I could find (since there is no side stand relay, I figure it must be the diode, but the key is to find it and verify the wire colors). Goose
joetx67 Posted January 20, 2012 Author #36 Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks GOOSE..I finally found the relay assembly, it was located in front of the battery, in between the battery and the heads of the engine, hidden by some covers.... I ordered the part from a local dealer but it will take a week or so to get it....so I opened the case of the relay assembly, and found the diodes causing the problem, 2 diodes actually. I tryied to get the diodes from the electronic base and replace them, but they were totally burned I can't read the value.....soooooo have to wait :-( I had an experience like this on an RV motorhome, with the AC units, same case: wrong fuses blown the diodes, after crazy cuotes ($600-$1000) to fixit I decided to do it myself, at a cost of 16 cents!!! yes 16 cents was the total cost of fixing the AC units.... Thanks again to you and all the other members that helped me...I will keep you posted.
frankd Posted January 20, 2012 #37 Posted January 20, 2012 Those diodes are nothing special and can be replaced with these http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036269 which are 1N4003. Radio shack also has some 1N4004 diodes and they'd be fine also. These are just general purpose everyday diodes. The only thing you need to do is get them installed in the correct direction. On the old ones, look for the silver ring around the diode (this is the cathode). Install the new diodes with the silver ring connected to the same connection. Sometimes the PC board is printed with the diode polarity (direction) shown. Frank D.
ragtop69gs Posted January 22, 2012 #38 Posted January 22, 2012 I have been following this thread with interest because I don't know JACK about how electrical circuits work. The question that comes to mind is, why were those over-sized fuses put in? What problem were they covering up and why would it all of a sudden cause the diodes to fry ? Seems to me you may have another problem you need to deal with. I defer to those more knowledgeable . Goose, your technical diagnostic ability never cease to amaze me
joetx67 Posted January 23, 2012 Author #39 Posted January 23, 2012 Thanks FRANK, Thanks RAGTOP. About the diodes: I agree, Frank, they are only "general purpose" diodes, but when the get burn also the board was damaged and I could not figure it out the right orientation of them.... besides the whole relay assembly cost me $30....still waiting for it though...I check several sites trying to find the diagram for this particular assembly with no luck..... I have nothing against dealers, but when I went to my local dealer asking for the relay, they gave me a price of $65 plus tax, they did not had it in stock so I had to wait 2 weeks......so I went home start looking online and find this part for $28 IN THE SAME DEALER WEBSITE!!!!!! I ordered and they told me will take 5-7 days....pretty crazy huuuu ? RAGTOP I hope you are wrong...lol.... I hope this relay will solve my problem, I will post it here....as for the fuses....I do not know why the former owner installed the wrong ones.... it is clearly labeled in the fuse box.... my theory is that when I tryied the Cruise Control, THEN the diodes (there are two blown diodes) overheat until blown... i do not know, at this point is all about faith....lol... I agree with you about GOOSE..... very knoledgeable guy.... Im also grateful with DINGY...Thanks guys.
joetx67 Posted January 26, 2012 Author #40 Posted January 26, 2012 Today I finally get the part from my Yamaha dealer and the bike is now working fabulous, as it should....Thanks again to all of you that gave me advice and opinions...It is still on the jack, if weather is fine tomorrow I will take a ride on it!!! Hope this tread helps somebody else in my position.... PS: I have a BRAND SPANKING NEW left lower fairing for this bike, black, never installed, still in original package, former owner paid 280 for it, I do not need it, so I will put it for sale at half the price.... just for all of you to know.... Thanks again.....
colmike Posted January 26, 2012 #41 Posted January 26, 2012 Can you share the names of the Dallas dealerships you worked with? This would be good information for the other DFW members to have. Thanks.
V7Goose Posted January 26, 2012 #42 Posted January 26, 2012 Can you share the names of the Dallas dealerships you worked with? This would be good information for the other DFW members to have. Thanks. I do not know what shop was involved in this case, but as far as I am concerned, there is only one shop Yamaha shop in the DFW area that I like and trust - that is Stadium Yamaha in Irving on 183. In my experience, these people are both very honest and very good. Goose
colmike Posted January 26, 2012 #43 Posted January 26, 2012 I agree with your assessment Goose. That's Jason Harshman, owner of Stadium Yamaha, and the only dealer in our area I've felt comfortable doing business with. I was just curious who Joe might have used to get those inaccurate responses to his technical questions. I discovered Stadium (Jason Harshman) right after I purchased my RSV a couple of years ago. He was the most responsive and helpful in assisting me with my Yamaha Extended Service (YES) warranty. FYI, he lives just South of us off of Davis Ave. in North Richland Hills. Nice guy.
joetx67 Posted January 29, 2012 Author #44 Posted January 29, 2012 hello guys.... That's exactly why I decided not to disclose the dealerships I went to...I did went to Stadium Yamaha as well as other 2 diffrent dealers in the Dallas-FW area...(I live in grand prairie, a dallas suburb) Please do not take me wrong...I have nothing against dealers; specially since this is my first time I needed to go to a yamaha dealer..... This is my first yamaha bike, so I do not have much to say, just descreived what I went tru.... It seems that is a regular practice for a dealer to give certain price if you go to the physical location; it is more expensive (twice in my case) and it takes longer (twice as well), against ordering online from the same dealer's website...Nothing wrong with it, even big stores often have diffrent online pricing.... Joe
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