Bill in NJ Posted January 1, 2012 #1 Posted January 1, 2012 Hi all. My 99 developed an oil leak from the rear valve cover a few months ago. Its now to the point I need to take care of it. I figure if I have to take all that stuff off to fix the leak, I might as well do the valves, although not looking forward to it. So now Im looking for a shim kit and tool to do the job. If anyone has one they can lend me I would certainly appreciate it. Bill
Yammer Dan Posted January 2, 2012 #2 Posted January 2, 2012 There is a way to stop the oil leaks without pulling covers. But if you need to get in there to do valves anyway...
skydoc_17 Posted January 2, 2012 #3 Posted January 2, 2012 Hey Bill, Happy New Year to you! This time of the year, I usually loan out my shop Bucket Shim Kit with the tool to depress the shim bucket. All I ask is that you purchase a set of Valve Cover Gaskets from me, and pay for the shipping of the kit to you, and the return shipping. The shim kit is currently being used by another VR.ORG member, but will be returned very shortly. If you can wait until the kit is returned, I would be happy to send it to you next. I keep the Valve Cover Gaskets in stock, and there are around 40 to 50 shims in the kit. My only disclaimer is, If by chance, you should brake the bucket shim tool, (it doesn't happen very often, but it has happened) that you would replace it, and if you use a shim from the kit, you put your old shim back in the kit. I extend this offer to ALL VR.ORG members. If you are interested, please feel free to contact me. Earl
ragtop69gs Posted January 11, 2012 #4 Posted January 11, 2012 There is a way to stop the oil leaks without pulling covers. But if you need to get in there to do valves anyway... Ok Dan I'll Bite, how do you stop the leak without pulling the covers? I have a small leak on the left rear gasket.
Yammer Dan Posted January 11, 2012 #5 Posted January 11, 2012 These valve covers are secured with shoulder bolts. They can't be tightened any further than they are if snug. You can check them LIGHTLY to make sure they are snug. IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH PRESSURE TO BREAK THESE THINGS!! DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!! They only torque to about 7 lbs I think. They usually start leaking on the rear for some reason but usually both. Pull the bolts. DO NOT remove cover. Pull the rubber seal off the bolts. Add a small washer that will fit inside the chrome cap. Replace washer and retorque bolts. After you look at the bolts and the way the shoulder bolts work you will understand this a little better. It will let you apply a little more pressure to the cover and should extend the life of the gaskets. I've been told I can't explain things very well so give me a call if you don't understand this.
Flyinfool Posted January 11, 2012 #6 Posted January 11, 2012 If you already have the bolts out, rather than pulling the runner seal off to put a washer on just replace the bolt seal with a new one. And if you have tall of the bolts out, you are not that far from having the cover off and just do it right with new gaskets too. Then you are done for the next 20 years. Unless you need your valve clearance checked. This is a good time to that too.
twigg Posted January 11, 2012 #7 Posted January 11, 2012 These valve covers are secured with shoulder bolts. They can't be tightened any further than they are if snug. You can check them LIGHTLY to make sure they are snug. IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH PRESSURE TO BREAK THESE THINGS!! DON'T OVERTIGHTEN!! They only torque to about 7 lbs I think. They usually start leaking on the rear for some reason but usually both. Pull the bolts. DO NOT remove cover. Pull the rubber seal off the bolts. Add a small washer that will fit inside the chrome cap. Replace washer and retorque bolts. After you look at the bolts and the way the shoulder bolts work you will understand this a little better. It will let you apply a little more pressure to the cover and should extend the life of the gaskets. I've been told I can't explain things very well so give me a call if you don't understand this. They probably leak from the rear first because it gets quite a lot hotter there than the front cylinder head. The "washer under shoulder bolt" works by adding pressure to the valve covers, and re-sealing the gasket. It may work, and in some cases could be a permanent fix. The danger is that you could warp the cover and eventually need new ones. Replacing the gaskets on the covers and the bolts is the best way to go, although I accept that does cost rather more than 16 washers.
ragtop69gs Posted January 11, 2012 #8 Posted January 11, 2012 I do need to check the valve clearance but I am a bit hesitant to undertake this job by myself. I really would like experienced eyes following along the first time. I may wait till Don's MD if I can find a willing coach to help with the job. I have the FSM . The bike has 46000 miles on it and I don't know if it's ever been done.
twigg Posted January 11, 2012 #9 Posted January 11, 2012 I do need to check the valve clearance but I am a bit hesitant to undertake this job by myself. I really would like experienced eyes following along the first time. I may wait till Don's MD if I can find a willing coach to help with the job. I have the FSM . The bike has 46000 miles on it and I don't know if it's ever been done. On most of these the wear is slow. Mine had 56k when I did them (it was new to me), most were still in spec, some were tight but none dangerously tight. I suspect they had never been adjusted from new, although they may have been checked at 25k when they would all have still been in spec. The job is fiddly more than anything. Access is tight and you need to be careful manipulating the tool, and careful to seat the new shims correctly. It is not difficult but you are likely to come to no harm by waiting for a maintenance day either.
Yammer Dan Posted January 11, 2012 #10 Posted January 11, 2012 They probably leak from the rear first because it gets quite a lot hotter there than the front cylinder head. The "washer under shoulder bolt" works by adding pressure to the valve covers, and re-sealing the gasket. It may work, and in some cases could be a permanent fix. The danger is that you could warp the cover and eventually need new ones. Replacing the gaskets on the covers and the bolts is the best way to go, although I accept that does cost rather more than 16 washers. If you use the same thickness washer and put them on all bolts how are you going to warp it?? And you are not putting it under the bolt. Under the cap for the bolt.
twigg Posted January 11, 2012 #11 Posted January 11, 2012 If you use the same thickness washer and put them on all bolts how are you going to warp it?? And you are not putting it under the bolt. Under the cap for the bolt. As I said, you might be just fine. Do it your way, or do it Yamaha's way, it's a choice we make. Sometimes "our" way is actually better.
Bill in NJ Posted January 12, 2012 Author #12 Posted January 12, 2012 Hi all, just finished with the valve check and the oil leak fix. All went well and everything was within spec. It is with out adoubt a PITA job though. Is was not hard just complicated in getting to the valves. Alot of stuff has to come off. Disassembley was easy. reassembly not so much. Trying to get my big hands and fingers in some of those spaces was not easy and it was tight trying to torque some of the bolts. I want to thank RandyR for the use of his shim kit and SkyDoc's words of encouragement. Bill
steamer Posted January 13, 2012 #13 Posted January 13, 2012 Hey Bill, just wundering, how many miles do you have on your 99?
Bill in NJ Posted January 14, 2012 Author #14 Posted January 14, 2012 Hi Steamer. I have just over 58K on the bike.
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