Parts Interchange

[cabreco]

Hi all,

Today I picked up an 84 Venture Royale with 14K miles. Cosmetically she's a little rough so I will need to replace some things & add some bling. Is there a parts interchange manual published for this bike?

Basically I need to replace some side panels & add some of the dress up trim. What years will be a direct bolt on to my 84?

 

My immediate need is to replace the seat. I assume an 83 would fit, what others can directly replace mine?

 

I appreciate any help especially on the seat.

Thanks

[bongobobny]

Good question! Most of the body parts between a Mk1 (83 -85) and a Mk2 (86- 93) are interchangeable but with some differences. Upper fairings are interchangeable. Engine covers are interchangeable but are different. Front fenders are the same. the larger trunk can be adapted but with either an '85 mount, or swapping out the rear frame with a MK2.

 

We willo be glad to give you the answers as they come up as long as you give us the specifics. Welcome aboard!!!

[cabreco]

Excellent!

 

At least I have a exact 3 year match on the seat with a 10 year fit match.

This helps a lot as the seat is the 1st thing that has to go!

[Venturous Randy]

Do you know any history on the bike? Are you sure it has 14K miles and not 114K or even 214K? Is there any issues with 2nd gear, as it jumping out of gear? If it does have 14K miles, you are looking at only averaging 500 miles per year and there are many of us 1st gen guys on here that will put that many miles on their bike in a weekend, easy.

RandyA

[Flyinfool]

Welcome aboard.

But how did you manage to find a brown 1st gen in Yammers part of the country?

[cabreco]

Do you know any history on the bike? Are you sure it has 14K miles and not 114K or even 214K? Is there any issues with 2nd gear, as it jumping out of gear? If it does have 14K miles, you are looking at only averaging 500 miles per year and there are many of us 1st gen guys on here that will put that many miles on their bike in a weekend, easy.

RandyA

 

I suspected that the od had rolled but several things tell me otherwise. The title has it as orig, but that notwithstanding this bike does not have any of the tell tale signs of an over 100k bike. Plenty of power, absolutely no 2nd gear popping out. During the test drive, I kept trying to get it to pop out of second gear but she never did...and I really accelerated hard!

I know what you mean, I put more miles on my bike just goofing around! It looks like it sat unused awhile.

Welcome aboard.

But how did you manage to find a brown 1st gen in Yammers part of the country?

I have been lucky in finding low mileage bikes here. I picked up an 81 Honda CB750 last May with 22K for $850. She's been my toy!

This Yamaha is for the wife & me to take "road trips"

[Yammer Dan]

Welcome aboard.

But how did you manage to find a brown 1st gen in Yammers part of the country?

 

 

Warden keeping a close eye on me!!

[bongobobny]

Well, the seat can be reconditioned, it's the hyde from the mighty Nauga beast. After thoroughly cleaning mine and even using kerosene and a scrub brush on it I used shoe dye to restore the surface, and used a strip of wide plastic chrome to hide the tear. Your best bet may be to take it to an upholsterer and have it redone. You can watch fleabay for months and months trying to find one in good shape, or you can spend the big bucks and go with an aftermarket one if you can find anyone still making one. Myself I did NOT like the corbin for the 1st gen but that's all personal taste.

 

Looking forward to seeing the progress you make on the bike, you're going to love it! With any old bike,there will be a lot of tinkering necessary to make it a great ride but you made an excellent choice for a touring bike. You will get out what you put in, so let the restoration and mods begin!!! Check here first for parts, many of us have stuff we would be glad to sell or give away. We're family here...

[MiCarl]

Well, the seat can be reconditioned, it's the hyde from the mighty Nauga beast. After thoroughly cleaning mine and even using kerosene and a scrub brush on it I used shoe dye to restore the surface, and used a strip of wide plastic chrome to hide the tear. Your best bet may be to take it to an upholsterer and have it redone. You can watch fleabay for months and months trying to find one in good shape, or you can spend the big bucks and go with an aftermarket one if you can find anyone still making one. Myself I did NOT like the corbin for the 1st gen but that's all personal taste.

 

Looking forward to seeing the progress you make on the bike, you're going to love it! With any old bike,there will be a lot of tinkering necessary to make it a great ride but you made an excellent choice for a touring bike. You will get out what you put in, so let the restoration and mods begin!!! Check here first for parts, many of us have stuff we would be glad to sell or give away. We're family here...

 

That's good advice Bob. If he gets it recovered he can have the foam customized to his tailbone while he's at it. More important he can add a little bit for his navigator.

[cabreco]

I started the tear down this morning, it's amazing how filthy this bike is.

I filled it up yesterday before garaging it & found a pungent gas smell this morning in the garage.

During tear down I saw now gas leaks or weeps on any line. I also checked around the fuel filter & pump...nothing. The smell seemed concentrated by the air cleaner/ gas tank.

I pulled the air box out & found a gunky grimy mess. The carbs were clean but the box & boots were coated with slime.

I cleaned the box & boot with MAF cleaner put the box back & it ran ok. I also siphoned a 1/2 gallon out of the tank in case I overfilled it.

 

When I finished for the day about an hour ago I put it back in the garage. The gas smell is practically gone. There is a hint (I think the engine itself is covered with crap). There is a degreasing job in my future.

 

This bike seems very easy to work on (a lot more accessible than my CB750) & she rides like a dream!

[Bubber]

Warden keeping a close eye on me!!

 

AS SHE SHOULD !!!!! ......... I just could stop my self.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New year !!!! :banana:

[bongobobny]

OK a couple of things! The oily mess inside the air box is most likely due to overfilling the crankcase when changing the oil by the P.O. The oil level should be no higher than the middle of the site glass. Any more and you get blowby which ends up in the air box and the top of the engine. The gas smell is most likely a stuck float which is also going to give you gas in the 4 carb vent tubes. We highly recommend a half can of seafoam in a tank of gas and then drive it like you stole it. Repeat on the next tank of gas. Be prepared to change plugs after that as the Seafoam will break a lot of crud loose!

The sealant around the throat tubes of the air box is most likely eroded from the years. While you are cleaning the airbox you may want to consider pealing away the sealer, thoroughly cleaning the area and resealing the carb throats. Dow Corning makes an excellent sealer that looks like the original gray sealant. Also, check the intake boots undr the carbs as the rubber can deteriorate. Also there are rubber "O" ring gaskets on those boots where they mate to the heads. There is a good chance they need replacing, and you will find the head surface will look very cruddy. Vacuum leaks develop there albeit slight.

 

While you are at it you may want to consider eliminating your YCIS system. That's the long plastic box between the carbs. It is meant to be a vacuum equalizing system for the intakes that works great in theory but not really very good in reality. The seam on the box can and will crack and develop vacuum leaks. You can just cap off the lines where they come out of the heads. Just make sure you retain the vacuum line that goes to your boost sensor as that provides vacuum advance information to your electronic ignition module. Speaking of which, you will be best served remounting that ignition module on top of your air cleaner as that location offers better moisture protection, and easy access when it finally gives you problems. You have to break off one of the mounting "ears" to get it to clear the false tank cover but you can use a self tapping screw to hold the module (Known as the TCI) to the airbox lid thru the other ear. The last thing to do while you are in the area is to modify the PCV system to make it more convenient to reinstall the airbox. I kept mine stock but it is a pain in the butt getting the hose back on. I use a set of longnose pliers and unclamp the hose at the tee and keep the other end clamped to the airbox. Skydoc17, Earl, came up with a very good system of his own design for crankcase ventillation. Earl is a great guy and makes several different kits for the 1st gens. He is also a supplier for DEKA batterys which, along with heavier gauge battery cables and a 4 brush starter motor are a "must have" to solve the slow cranking when the motor is hot. A high output stator and aftermarket heavier duty voltage regulator rounds out the electrical system...

[cabreco]

The sealant around the throat tubes of the air box is most likely eroded from the years. While you are cleaning the airbox you may want to consider pealing away the sealer, thoroughly cleaning the area and resealing the carb throats. Dow Corning makes an excellent sealer that looks like the original gray sealant. ...

 

Sealant????

[stevej]

I use this site to look up parts, when you find the part for your model year, it also brings up a list of all models that use the same part. I found this to be very useful to find parts that are not listed very often on ebay and are still quite expensive from wreckers.

 

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com

[bongobobny]

Sealant????

Yes, when you have your air box out, flip it upside down. Where the tubes come out of the box there is a bead of sealant to prevent air leaks around the tubes where they come out of the box. Picture to follow as soon as I get my camera out and resize the image...

[cabreco]

bongobobny

I was going to ask about using seafoam. My Honda loved that stuff, I also put a cap full in the oil just before changing it to loosen up gunk in the crankcase. I initially ruled out a stuck float because the carbs were recently rebuilt & synced but in retrospect, you never know. When I pulled off the air box I examined the boots, they are supple & have no cracks, but i saw no o rings around were the boots meet that carbs...just the clamps around it. Come to think of it I did see some flaky stuff that looked like dry varnish on the boots were they meet the airbox, I just though it was crud.

Thanks for the tips on the Starter, PCV & TCI, I did read somewhere that at times moisture wreaks havoc with these bikes. Since I am tearing down, much of this will be easily accessible.

Despite not finding o rings & now not having sealant on the boots, when I took it for a test ride I didn't feel any loss of power as a vacuum leak would cause, but it's probably a matter of time, so I will pick some up. When I replaced the airbox on my honda with stacks she dogged out so I know that feeling.

 

Thanks again!

[bongobobny]

Here ya go! Lucky for you I'm swapping out carbs as my number 3 is clogged up. I may have went a tad overboard with the Dow Corning. If you are letting air come in at the base you are letting in unfiltered and most likely contaminated air in...

[bongobobny]

The "O" rings are on the base of the intake boots under the carbs where the boots make contact with the head. The carbs must be removed to remove the boots to get to the "O" rings...

bongobobny

I was going to ask about using seafoam. My Honda loved that stuff, I also put a cap full in the oil just before changing it to loosen up gunk in the crankcase. I initially ruled out a stuck float because the carbs were recently rebuilt & synced but in retrospect, you never know. When I pulled off the air box I examined the boots, they are supple & have no cracks, but i saw no o rings around were the boots meet that carbs...just the clamps around it. Come to think of it I did see some flaky stuff that looked like dry varnish on the boots were they meet the airbox, I just though it was crud.

Thanks for the tips on the Starter, PCV & TCI, I did read somewhere that at times moisture wreaks havoc with these bikes. Since I am tearing down, much of this will be easily accessible.

Despite not finding o rings & now not having sealant on the boots, when I took it for a test ride I didn't feel any loss of power as a vacuum leak would cause, but it's probably a matter of time, so I will pick some up. When I replaced the airbox on my honda with stacks she dogged out so I know that feeling.

 

Thanks again!

[cabreco]

Ahhh rings on the other end. Ok didn't get that far yet.

I will get there though. I do have to degrease the engine as well (it's filthy) and eventually polish some of the case covers since the aluminum has oxidized.

I think I'll pick up a M/C jack to raise the bike as I think my back will eventually star complaining

 

Thanks again for the help & the pic!

[cabreco]

So based on what I've read most 83-93 body parts will fit. Drivetrain would be limited to XVZ1200.

 

I am looking at an 86-88 XVZ 1300 Saddlebag chrome trim that goes around the bottom of the saddlebags & in front of the rear lower fender. This would fit since the saddlebags are the same as my 84.

 

Floorboards & the sort of "bling" I am ok with 83-93

 

am I Right?

 

Andy

[Squidley]

So based on what I've read most 83-93 body parts will fit. Drivetrain would be limited to XVZ1200.

 

I am looking at an 86-88 XVZ 1300 Saddlebag chrome trim that goes around the bottom of the saddlebags & in front of the rear lower fender. This would fit since the saddlebags are the same as my 84.

 

Floorboards & the sort of "bling" I am ok with 83-93

 

am I Right?

 

Andy

 

Andy,

 

The '86 to '93 bags and chrome pieces are totally different, they will not fit with the '83 to '85 saddlebags. For further clarification, folks will comment on the 1st gens, which is what yours is considered, in 2 categories. The MKI is the '83 to '85 1200 cc years and a MKII is the '86 to '93 1300 cc years.

 

As far as bling some will fit all years and some wont, ask if you are unsure. I'm not positive on the floorboards, but I believe they will fit all the years. I would caution against them as there have been a few cases of the case breaking by the shifter shaft as they put a lot of stress in that area and didn't have a very good design on them.....enjoy the site, there is months worth of reading here.

[bongobobny]

What Squid says, sorta. Yes the saddlebags are different and non removable but much larger. You can get the MK2 bags and chrome crash bars to bolt onto the MK1 but not the larger trunk unless you go with the '85. You can use the MK2 trunk IF you change out the rear frame.

 

Passenger floorboards from a MK2 can be made to fit a MK1 but you need to fabricate some hangers for the exhaust, and buy a couple of longer bolts. A few years ago I did write up a detailed how-to complete with pictures but I don't know what happened to it. There are no new driver floorboards out there but there was a few aftermarket kits out there that appear on Fleabay now and then. You have to use a set for the MK1's. The ones for the MK2 may be adapted some how but I've never done any so I don't know what is involved. Of course if you are a McGuiver type you can make anything work with enough ingenuity and fabrication...

[cabreco]

The gas smell went away after 24 hours. I thought I had cured it but no.

Today I had to move the bike so I started it outside & let it warm up. Once I got it back inside the gas stink resurfaced.

So I have narrowed it down to a stuck float, I smell gas from the air cleaner inlet (battery cover is off).

The only other thing I did before the smell dissipated was shut off the petcock.

To rule any issues there I will reopen the petcock once the smell goes away to see if it resurfaces without starting the bike.

 

In the end I'm hoping seafoam will do the trick!