07 oil Change

[DarkLeftArm]

Hi, fellas.

If you followed up on my last post, you know that I dragged home another project.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65645

 

Now here is my question:

Did Yamaha use a special break-in oil, or should I just dump in whatever I plan to run in the future? I like synthetic, since these things don't leak, but with less than 100 miles, I'm afraid the break-in period will be affected by the extra slipperiness of the synthetic stuff. Maybe some plain ol' dino oil for the first couple changes, then synth?

 

Oh, yeah... Here's a pic. Not a great shot, but you get the idea.

 

Once again, thank you for your time and wisdom.

Bert

[Sylvester]

Run what you like but keep in mind the clutch only likes certain oils and by looking at posts for three years there are few that come up as the perfect. Amsoil seems to hit the top of the list along with Mobil 1 and some others. I use Castrol Syntech blend and it works for me.

 

[friesman]

A hint when changing oil is dont beleive the manual when it tells you how much to put in. I beleive its about a half quart less. You dont want the oil level more than halfway up the viewing window or you will start to suck it up into your air chamber during a longer ride and then down the draintubes and drip onto your driveway.

 

Also, ensure that whatever you buy does NOT say energy conserving as it will make your clutch slip as they have friction modifiers added.

 

Brian

[steve crossley]

ITS BEST TO BREAK IT IN WITH WHATS IN IT THEN GO SYN. OIL:hurts:

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

Within 5 miles of my first (and last) Synthetic Oil Change, my Clutch started to slip.

[DarkLeftArm]

Slab Ryder: What was your mileage when your clutch started slipping?

Steve Crossley: What is in them from the factory?

friesman: Thanks for the headsup.

Syl: Maybe synthetic would be OK?

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

27,000 kms (or almost 17,000 miles). The slippage literally started within the first 5 miles of having the oil change with Kawasaki Synthetic Oil, as recommended by one of my local Yamaha Dealers.

[eusa1]

there is no such thing as "break in oil" all yamahas come from the assembly plant with yamalube just like you can buy from the dealer.

 

i have always run casteroil gtx 20/50

im on my 3rd venture with 130k+

 

mike.

[Freebird]

I bought my '99 new in May of 99. I changed the original oil at around 500 miles. I went with the YamaLube at that time and then at 2000 miles, changed it to Mobil 1 Racing 4T. It has had nothing else in it since that time. I use Mobil 1 in everything I own.

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

Since the initial Slippage (and subsequent Friction Disk replacement), I have used nothing but Yama Lube

[DarkLeftArm]

Very cool, guys.

I'll decide what to dump in tonight. I'll sleep on it.

Thanks again.

Bert

[MikeWa]

At 16,000 I switched to Amsoil. By 18,000 the transmission was screaming. So I changed back to Yamalube. Now at 20,000 most of the screaming has abated. So my suggestion is find what works and stick with it.

Mike

Edited December 21, 2011 by MikeWa
spelling

[flb_78]

Rotella T 15W40 diesel oil

 

Anther popular one is

 

Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

 

Both are JASO MA rated and are fine for motorcycles with wet clutches.

[OB-1]

Rotella T 15W40 diesel oil

 

Anther popular one is

 

Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

 

Both are JASO MA rated and are fine for motorcycles with wet clutches.

 

I use Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic in my 06 RSV. No problems and no oil consumption.

[steve crossley]

Slab Ryder: What was your mileage when your clutch started slipping?

Steve Crossley: What is in them from the factory?

friesman: Thanks for the headsup.

Syl: Maybe synthetic would be OK?

 

• most likley yamalube non synt.you will find some folks who have slipping clutches after going to syn. and those who dont i wont run anything else. my 1st gen 86 has 153.000 miles on it i replaced clutch disks (fiber) at 125.000 miles . i dont cut ol, blue any slack, for me oil has not been a factor.it still hooks up and will smoke the tire if asked to. so to each his own.
  
  

[Rick Haywood]

I run Yamalube 10/40. I keep the gallon Jug because the bike holds 3.5 quarts with filter so everytime I change the oil I pour the extra in the the gallom jug I kept. I ride a lot so I change my oil about every month or so. Before you know it I have another 3.5 quarts for the next oil change. I change mine at 4,000 miles ,

[hig4s]

27,000 kms (or almost 17,000 miles). The slippage literally started within the first 5 miles of having the oil change with Kawasaki Synthetic Oil, as recommended by one of my local Yamaha Dealers.

 

I doubt seriously if it had anything to do with it being synthetic. But I am not sure about the quality of Kaw oil. I have use Mobil 1 synthetic in eight motorcycles (including sport bikes and motocross bikes) without a clutch issue.. The clutch spring in a 2nd gen is one of its weak links. If you do a search here you will find quite a few people with clutches that started to slip early with or without synthetic. Most opted for stronger after market clutch spring kits, or switched to the Barnett conversion that gets rid of the flat compression spring and uses the classic multiple coil spring set up.

[BIG TOM]

Just happen to notice that the antennae on your bike are installed wrong. They need to be switched.......The black thinggie needs to go to the CB on the left side of the bike while sitting on it.......

[wrenchrob]

Just happen to notice that the antennae on your bike are installed wrong. They need to be switched.......The black thinggie needs to go to the CB on the left side of the bike while sitting on it.......

Wow! Pretty impressive there BIG TOM! Nothing gets by you!

[djh3]

Just brought my "new" 09 home yesterday and had some questions on the oil subject while reading the owners manyal last night briefly. My previous bike was a 900 Kawaski Vulcan. The recomended oil change intervals were 7500 miles if I remember correctly. So I'm looking last night and this bikes intervals are 4000 miles? how come so short. I ran Mobil 1 in the 900 partialy because they were what I would call "extended" intervals. On this one, heck if I have to change oil every 4000 it will be twice as much and at ruffly $50 a change for syn oil I think it may have to be Dino oil.

Not wanting to get into the oil threads as usualy there are plenty. But being I live in central FL which weight oil would you recomend? For the most part I have been running the Mobil1 v-twin 20w50. Last couple oil changes I would put 2 20-50 and top off with the 10-40 M1.

[BigBoyinMS]

Everyone seems to know about the "Energy Conserving" additives in regular car oil that will cause clutches to slip... but no one seems to worry much about the zinc and phosphorus package (zdp) that flat tappet engines need to prevent high pressure metal to metal wear such as cam lobe to lifter.

ZDP is death to a cat con if any gets into the exhaust system so oil companies started dropping ZDP levels with the widespread usage of converters. And they are still dropping the levels even more.

Most modern auto engines have roller lifters so the low ZDP oil works for them but our bikes (and older cars, trucks and any flat tappet engine) need oil with 1300 - 1400 ppm (0.13% - 0.14%) ZDP. I used to run Rotella as it was right at 1400 ppm but a year or so back I heard that they have dropped zdp levels also. I haven't taken the time to verify that mainly because I decided to stick with the only oil that I can get easily and meets all the requirements for the bike. That would be Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. There are other oils out there but Mobil 1 can be had in just about any parts store and some Wally Worlds.

 

Just more info for those that may want to use it. Feel free to use whatever you feel comfortable with.

[DarkLeftArm]

Man... I used to be involved in building old style FE big block Ford motors, and I kinda thought I'd heard the last about zinc additives in oil. Never realized that it would apply to mc engines.

Last for me was Rotella, also. The holy grail of ZDP. Now they have dropped the zinc for Diesel engines? I guess the new ones run cats also.

So, Mobil1 mc oil has zinc?

Somehow the EPA has made concessions for motorcycles?

No bikes have catalytic convertors?

 

Does Yamalube have ZDP?

[hig4s]

Just brought my "new" 09 home yesterday and had some questions on the oil subject while reading the owners manyal last night briefly. My previous bike was a 900 Kawaski Vulcan. The recomended oil change intervals were 7500 miles if I remember correctly. So I'm looking last night and this bikes intervals are 4000 miles? how come so short. I ran Mobil 1 in the 900 partialy because they were what I would call "extended" intervals. On this one, heck if I have to change oil every 4000 it will be twice as much and at ruffly $50 a change for syn oil I think it may have to be Dino oil.

Not wanting to get into the oil threads as usualy there are plenty. But being I live in central FL which weight oil would you recomend? For the most part I have been running the Mobil1 v-twin 20w50. Last couple oil changes I would put 2 20-50 and top off with the 10-40 M1.

 

 

 

What is strange is some years manuals say 8000mi some say 4000mi. I go with the assumption 4000 is for non-synthetic and I use full synth at 8000 mile changes. Actually with most bikes with oil bath clutch, you can tell when the oil is about done because the shifting will become clunky..

[BigBoyinMS]

Man... I used to be involved in building old style FE big block Ford motors, and I kinda thought I'd heard the last about zinc additives in oil. Never realized that it would apply to mc engines.

Last for me was Rotella, also. The holy grail of ZDP. Now they have dropped the zinc for Diesel engines? I guess the new ones run cats also.

So, Mobil1 mc oil has zinc?

Somehow the EPA has made concessions for motorcycles?

No bikes have catalytic convertors?

 

Does Yamalube have ZDP?

 

I can't say for sure but I think all cycle oils are formulated with the correct amounts. I just choose Mobil 1 because it's more available for me. Just drop an email to Yammi and ask about Yamalube. Most companies will answer with the info.

 

FYI: I did some searching and it looks like Rotella T is down to 1100ppm phosphorus and 1200ppm zinc.

Edited January 18, 2012 by BigBoyinMS
more info

[djh3]

Sure enough on the oil change table. The owners manual I looked in last night said 4000, I just looked in the Service manual and it has 8000 checked off. Just purchased the bike and I'm not really sure other than the 600 mile initial service when the oil was last changed. But if the fellow followed the owners manual it was done @ 4k and I'm at 7500 now. So I guess either way @ 8k I'll be due for an oil change and go from there. Only hic-up would be the service manual I am referencing is in our tech section and might be out dated. I had good luck with the mobil 1 and purolator gold filters on the last bike.