GG54172 Posted December 14, 2011 #1 Posted December 14, 2011 Have you ever used a machinist knife edge? I attached a picture. I ask because I recently found a set and I have never used one before. My dad has been a die maker since the early 70's and he has never seen one either. I will probably sell it, but the tech geek in me wants to know how it works first.
dingy Posted December 14, 2011 #2 Posted December 14, 2011 Have you ever used a machinist knife edge? I attached a picture. I ask because I recently found a set and I have never used one before. My dad has been a die maker since the early 70's and he has never seen one either. I will probably sell it, but the tech geek in me wants to know how it works first. Have a 40 year vetern coworker that gave following info. Purpose of the 'Knife Edge' was when straight edge is placed against a flat machined surface, 1) easier to see light coming through low spots, 2) more accurate if sliding shim gauge under as no dirt build up. Gary
Badacer Posted December 14, 2011 #3 Posted December 14, 2011 These are not "machinist knife edge" but are "machinist straight edges" for checking flat and smooth surfaces, the knife edge only refers to the fact that they are ground to a point for greater accuracy.
rickardracing Posted December 14, 2011 #4 Posted December 14, 2011 Basically an old school way of checking for flatness when a surface plate and indicator are not usable or available. Not worth a dime.
Kirby Posted December 14, 2011 #5 Posted December 14, 2011 All the above. Not knife edge in the sense of a cutting tool, but as a straight edge.
Eck Posted December 14, 2011 #6 Posted December 14, 2011 (quote).. the knife edge only refers to the fact that they are ground to a point for greater accuracy. Okie-Dokie now...Im sorry but I just have to challenge you one this if you dont mind. "Knife Edge" in my world would mean just that.."the edge" and not the tip, and this knife edge is a machined edge, where it is a "straight" true edge which would in deed be used to aid in measuring the flatness of a ssurface. I guess my question is: How can the point be used to measure flatness when the ground point is just that..a point.. not a flat long surface.??
Kirby Posted December 14, 2011 #7 Posted December 14, 2011 Eck, the "point" he was refering to was not the point of the instrument, but rather the the "point"of the sharp edge. If you were to look at a cross section of the blade it would look like a point. Hope this helps.
GG54172 Posted December 15, 2011 Author #8 Posted December 15, 2011 Not worth a dime. Eh, well it was included in an entire lot of stuff, so no biggie. Probably put a thin coat of wax on it and put it away. Might see it on Pawn Stars in about 150 years...
Squidley Posted December 15, 2011 #9 Posted December 15, 2011 I noticed the flyer paper you have inserted says it's a Brown and Sharpe, those are still some of the best precision machinist tools you can buy.
GG54172 Posted December 15, 2011 Author #10 Posted December 15, 2011 I noticed the flyer paper you have inserted says it's a Brown and Sharpe, those are still some of the best precision machinist tools you can buy. Aint that the truth. Most of the stuff I picked up is 45 years old. With the exception of the 0-1" micrometer, which is missing a set screw, everything still works great.
royalstarjac Posted December 15, 2011 #11 Posted December 15, 2011 Straight edges are a basic tool for accuracy in scribing, drafting and straightness inspection. Not worth a dime? http://www.torontosurplus.com/test-equipment-1/calibration-equipment-standards/brown-and-sharpe-530-beveled-toolmaker-s-knife-straight-edge-set-in-stock-4m.html
MikeWa Posted December 15, 2011 #12 Posted December 15, 2011 Very handy for checking cylinder heads and blocks for straightness. Lay it on the surface and see if a feeler gauge will slide under it thereby measuring the amount of warpage. Mike
farm1810 Posted December 15, 2011 #13 Posted December 15, 2011 I am not a machinist, but we used a tool similar to this to check the flatness on front pump / covers on the old hydramatics - transmissions. As you guys are saying, place the knife edge on the flat side of the pump cover and look for light. We had a small lapping table and small granite table and we would use a very fine grit lapping compound moving the cover in figure 8's - versus pushing back to front which will leave the leading edges short with high spot in the middle. Yes, I know there are more modern and effective methods available today, but you said "old school" and this was the old school practice in automotive garages in the day when one fixed the old parts instead of just bolting on new assemblies.
playboy Posted December 16, 2011 #14 Posted December 16, 2011 I am not a machinist, but we used a tool similar to this to check the flatness on front pump / covers on the old hydramatics - transmissions. As you guys are saying, place the knife edge on the flat side of the pump cover and look for light. We had a small lapping table and small granite table and we would use a very fine grit lapping compound moving the cover in figure 8's - versus pushing back to front which will leave the leading edges short with high spot in the middle. Yes, I know there are more modern and effective methods available today, but you said "old school" and this was the old school practice in automotive garages in the day when one fixed the old parts instead of just bolting on new assemblies. These first Gen guys better pay attention to this information
dingy Posted December 16, 2011 #15 Posted December 16, 2011 Yes, I know there are more modern and effective methods available today, but you said "old school" and this was the old school practice in automotive garages in the day when one fixed the old parts instead of just bolting on new assemblies. These first Gen guys better pay attention to this information Don't fret, most of us 1st genners work on our own bikes, thats one reason they are known as faster. You know its done your way instead of a 19 year old that knows little except shop manual pictures at the Yamaha dealer, You know, he's the one replacing your shock, checking valves, adjusting your carbs. He likes those shiny RSV's. Not to mention near $75 shop hour rates, he is worth it. Gary
MikeWa Posted December 16, 2011 #16 Posted December 16, 2011 Well if you decide you don't want this old fashioned, obsolete junk lying around and are trying to get rid of it. I could probably find a place for it in my tool box. Mike
GG54172 Posted December 16, 2011 Author #17 Posted December 16, 2011 Well if you decide you don't want this old fashioned, obsolete junk lying around and are trying to get rid of it. I could probably find a place for it in my tool box. Mike I recently bought an entire set of tools from guy retiring after 45 years. I don't think any of it is junk. I am most definately keeping the mill, lathe, bandsaw, and related equipment. But there is some stuff that is beyond my technical capability that I am selling. The surface grinder, a dividing head, several hone sets, etc. I am still digging through it all trying to determine what I will keep and what I will sell. Mostly, I have to have a use for it to keep it. Most of the equipment is from the 60's and is still in perfect condition, so I refuse to keep something just to let it sit on a shelf and rust. (I even have all of the origional paperwork, manuals, etc) I recognized most everything from when I played in my dad's tool and die shop as a teen in the late 90's. The dividing head and these knife edges were the exception. My father, who has been involved with tool and die since the early seventies has never even seen machinist knife edges before, but he did recognize the dividing head. The knife edges I may keep just to use as a straight edge, but I dont plan to get into gun smithing so I will probably sell the dividing head. I also have many duplicates; several 0-1" micrometers for instance, standard taps in every size, etc. I will keep one or two of each size, and sell the extra. It was quite a big lot, and the guy sold everything, including the work benches, kennedy tool boxes, cabinets, phase converter, etc. He was moving to a condo, and could not bring it with him. I posted some pictures. It was quite a craigslist find, and I am super excited to own it.
Flyinfool Posted December 16, 2011 #18 Posted December 16, 2011 Hmmmmmmm........... I have been looking for a small surface grinder to add to my basement. Any idea what that thing weighs? I have been trying to talk the place where I work out of one that has not been used in the 11 years that I have worked here. Hmmmmmmm.......... And your only 200 miles away.......... Hmmmmmmm..........
GG54172 Posted December 16, 2011 Author #19 Posted December 16, 2011 I'd deliver the grinder to the Milwaukee area. However, I don't plan to list anything formally for sale until I have everything cataloged. As I am currently in between semesters I hope to do everything before the 2nd of January. I will let you know when it is listed for sale.
Flyinfool Posted December 16, 2011 #20 Posted December 16, 2011 I am not in any super hurry. I will need to make (clean out) a place for it and build whatever will be necessary to get it down the basement steps, SAFELY. I did get a band saw, a 13 x 48 lathe, a horizontal mill, and a vertical mill down there already. I'm runnin out of space. When you are ready to sell please contact me.
ragtop69gs Posted December 16, 2011 #21 Posted December 16, 2011 That grinder looks just like the one I used at work. Does it have the electro-magnetic table?
Kirby Posted December 16, 2011 #22 Posted December 16, 2011 According to the pictures the magnetic table is manually operated, which is a good thing if it will hold. You won't have to worry about it. I see valve shims being thinned to the right thickness here. GG54172 You hit the jackpot here for home use!!!! If you like doing this kind of work(hobby), You've got just about everything you need to make most anything, with a little ingenuity. If I had the money, I'd take anything you didn't want. Congrats!!! By the way, that dividing head will make your drill press or milling machine worth their weight in gold when it comes time to build multi sided parts, bolt hole circles, square or hex to name a few shapes, the possibilities are endless.
GG54172 Posted December 17, 2011 Author #23 Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) you hit the jackpot...By the way, that dividing head will make your drill press or milling machine worth their weight in gold when it comes time to build multi sided parts, bolt hole circles, square or hex to name a few shapes, the possibilities are endless. I have a rotary table for the mill too. 10" diameter for that type of work. It also came with six different vices, from 2" jaw to 6". I probably have 30 Vee blocks for round stock of varying sizes. Several knee blocks. All the hold downs for fixturing, jack screws. The lathe has a 9" dia swing with dual cross feed and included a three & four jaw chuck, collets from 1/16 to 1" and two surface plates. The band saw is a 18" and has a blade welder, 7 rolls of various size blades, and automatic feed. All the ways are clean and everything is well oiled. A complete turn key shop with a whole set of mill bits, fractional drills, letter drills, and number drills. Extra magnetic switchs for the 3 pahse stuff, extra motor for the lathe, 4 bench grinders and big 3 phase pedestal grinder. just too much stuff to list. I will keep 85% of it for building trinkets for the kids gocart, my motorbikes, and maybe a dune buggy. Who knows? The big equipment all fit on the 25' trailer with the skid steer I rented. All the small stuff took four return trips in my 1/2 ton truck. All this for less than I paid for my Venture... Edited December 17, 2011 by GG54172
royalstarjac Posted December 17, 2011 #25 Posted December 17, 2011 You hit the jackpot there. Have fun! Those little odds and ends really add up.
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