Do we have any professionals in the Safe Business?

[ragtop69gs]

We have a rather large (72x48x24) fire safe at work that is used to store documents and they want me to put some lighting in it. I need to get 120v power into the safe but it cannot compromise the fire rating of the safe. Are there any kits available to accomplish this? Or a DIY way?

[dingy]

Battery powered light is probably your only option.

 

120V into it means wiring, requires hole in safe wall, which will comprimise rire proof rating.

 

You could probably rig up a switch so light is only ativated when safe is open easily.

 

Gary

[Snaggletooth]

I'm no safe expert but I think any tampering with accessing the inside might cause issues with the fire rating.

 

How about some of those stick-on, battery rated LED like you might use in a closet or storage area?

 

They offer a lot of light and a pretty decent battery life.

 

But that's just me. Simple and frugal. Ok.....cheap.

 

[dray]

We have a rather large (72x48x24) fire safe at work that is used to store documents and they want me to put some lighting in it. I need to get 120v power into the safe but it cannot compromise the fire rating of the safe. Are there any kits available to accomplish this? Or a DIY way?

 

 

 

is this for light or is it to put a small bulb in to keep it warm and moisture free like i used to do in my gun safes

 

if its for light id go with some battery stick on's

if its for moisture control I'd check into some of the small heat elements for gun safes

 

Dray

[Freebird]

I agree with the battery powered ones. Some of the new LED models are plenty bright and draw low current so the batteries should last a long time.

[MikeWa]

Many large safes have holes in the bottom so they can be bolted to the floor. This might be an access point for you to run a wire. If you do run wire wrap it with some insulation. You can get some at your local auto parts store for choke tubes etc. You might also pass the wire through a piece of wall board at the opening. This will further dissipate heat and protect the opening. Also if you attach an electrical device inside the safe make sure the safe is grounded. I just put an outlet in mine so I can plug in whatever device suites me at the moment. Yes I drilled a small hole near the bottom back for the wire and used insulation and a piece of wallboard. Fire resistance is mostly a function of the insulation inside the safe.

Mike

[MikeWa]

A last thought. If you have something that catches on fire inside the safe you could have issues when you open the door. You know, papers falling against a light bulb etc.

Mike

[BOO]

It seems to me that putting a 110 volt light in a "fire safe" just doesn't seem right. Maybe it's a fire hazard unless you put the bulb in a glass shield. I'm thinking battery is the best idea.

BOO

[Flyinfool]

+1 for LEDs and batteries.

 

Another issue is that many safes are specifically designed to resist drilling a hole. On others they will be permanently damaged by drilling a hole, some have a layer that is a water jacket to resist a cutting torch. to drill a hole would damage/drain the water jacket or allow air in to start rust formation.

 

If there is a soft door gasket you may be able to use a ribbon wire right thru the normal door opening.

 

Is there a specific reason why they want 110VAC power in there?

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I would NOT run 120v into that safe. Either a stickon LED light with some kind of door switch or as Jeff said, run ribbon cable but make sure its LOW voltage wiring and lights. You sure dont want anyone getting shocked if the ribbon cable insulation failed due to rubbing from the metal edges.

 

 

 

 

[Yammer Dan]

Saw that title I thought. Safe Pros?? I've got some experience with explosives....

[Monty]

If he drilled it, couldn't he use a small piece of conduit, and fill it with fire caulk. That's what we used to do when running wire in schools, hospitals, etc..., to maintain the firewall integrity.

[MikeWa]

Electric dehumidifiers and lights are common in safes. I was just saying be careful during the install. Some safes already have predrilled holes for this purpose. Check yours.

 

Here is an install kit

http://www.deansafe.com/losalikit.html

 

Here are dehumidifiers

http://www.cannonsafe.com/options-accessories.html

 

Mike

[ragtop69gs]

Thanks for all the suggestions. They were asking if I could put rope lighting around the inside perimeter that would turn on when the doors were opened. There is no access or bolt holes anywhere on the safe. This thing weighs over 2000 pounds empty ! I think I'll try and convince them to use those battery operated lights first, if that don't fly then I'll look into the kits Mike linked to, then Monty's idea if all else fails. Ribbon wire would not work in this case, the door are a very close fit with a 1/16th" gap around the doors.

 

Thanks, This place is great

[Sylvester]

Cut a rectangle hole in the door and put a window in it. :rotf::rotf:

 

[RedRider]

Put one of these on the outside. They can figure out how it works.

 

RR

[CaptainJoe]

Small hole at bottom of safe just large enough to insert electric cord. Some safes come with a knockout so check.

 

Then instal light at other end.

 

I bought a gun safe a few years back and after a year,my guns started to rust. Solution is install a light!

 

For the perfect welding rod storage take an old refrigerator, dissconnect compressor. Take door light switch off and wire together with wire nut and tape. That way the small applience light will stay on when door is closed. as it uses a 25W applience bulb, it won't cost you much for electricity.

[dynodon]

Red Rider had the solution, a flashlight. If they need to find stuff, even a light inside would probably not get to all the areas, especially if there are several shelves.

 

You can mount the flashlight on the outside, but if people steal it, then mount the light on the inside. Keep a few extra batteries in an acid proof case as back up.

[hillrider]

LED light strips. Grainger item 6DXD4, double sticky the switch to the roof in series with the batteries. Wa La - interior switch lighting

[OldBear]

If he drilled it, couldn't he use a small piece of conduit, and fill it with fire caulk. That's what we used to do when running wire in schools, hospitals, etc..., to maintain the firewall integrity.

 

Fire caulk. Check with U/L for "fire stop systems". Use a "system" that provides the SAME fire rating (time) as the safe wall and you should be fine.